Carburetor float height adjustment

[Guest]

I went to NAPA and found Permatex green threadlock. The package said that it's good for bolts of 2mm and up. However, the chart on the back lists the yield strength of blue, red, green, high-temp, and so on. Green has a higher yield torque than blue. So I kept on looking.

Alpha Sports sells the Suzuki thread lock 99000-32040 for $23.90. Way too much.

An internet search shows that Permatex and Loctite both make a low strength thread lock cement, which is purple. 45 minutes on the phone showed me that none of the local auto parts stores, hardware stores, or motorcycle dealers can order it. So back to the internet. I ordered a tube of "Permatex? Low Strength Threadlocker PURPLE" from a dealer who links through Amazon, for about $13, of which half is S&H.

The following web site has comparative descriptions of all Permatex thread lock compounds. It includes thread sealants, and a "thread repair" material that is meant to permanenetly seal a bolt in a hole with stripped threads.

http://www.caswellplating.com/permatex/permthreadlockers.html

Purple:

OEM specified. Low strength threadlocker designed for fasteners under 1/4" (6mm) that require occasional adjustment. Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly. Noncorrosive.

Suggested Applications:
Carburetors, relay locks, headlamps, throttle body assembly, choke assembly and fuel injection set screws, body panel mounting fasteners.

Green:

OEM specified. A low viscosity threadlocking liquid that wicks along the threads of preassembled fasteners to secure them in place. Since it is applied after assembly, preventive maintenance procedures are simplified. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2" (2.2 to 12mm) in size. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly.

Suggested Applications:
Bolts on alternators, air conditioning belts and distributor clamps, carburetor adjustment screws, hairline cracks.

Again, thanks for the help.

[anikmankar]

Using old Break Bleeds

Hi Guys

I used and old break bleed, rethreaded the correct size and pitch. once that was done leave about 6. to 7 mm of thread and cut of the rest of the tread.

Since the hole thru the nut is already there this works perfectly fine. I just use a good washer (not rubber ones ) before i screw them in.

hope this helps

thanks

[Dink]

Thanks TKENT02. We dont have JB Weld here in Australia, but I get the idea. Araldite might do the trick, dont know if its affected by petrol though. Thanks again for your help.

Cheers

Don

We do get JBweld in Oz anywhere you can get threebond products, and I saw it recently in Mitre 10.

Dink

[Suzuki_Don]

Thanks DINK. I will look out for it. many thanks.

Cheers

Don

[slamonte]

I'm still confused!? How is a measurement taken from the drain plug hole? How can you tell where the fuel level is with a tube connected through the drain plug? If it somehow shows you a measurement, don't you still need to take it apart to reset the floats. There is a piece of information that I am missing to make it comprehensable to me.

Sorry for the dumb questions.

[Dink]

Connect tube to drain plug; hold tube up the side of the carb, start engine, the tube will show the actual fuel level in the carb.

Dink

[slamonte]

Thanks Dink! That gives a little more clarity. So yyou let a little gas run into the tube when you want to check it. The gas level is held to the side of carb and should line up just under the float bowl edge?

Does the small hole in the current drain plug get messed up when drilling the new hole for the tube (I assume so)? Does it matter? How do you plug the hole when your through test?

I'm really learning something here!

[Muser3]

float level

salmonte I know you're in a conversation but please let me interject my method of fuel level checking.
The drain hole in the bottom of the bowl has two trenches to drain the fuel without completely removing the drain screw. I have some old gummy permatex gasket sealer in a tube that I use to fill these trenches and then I simply screw a piece of vinil tubing into the drain hole. The permatex prevents the gas from leaking around the tube. I only use one bowl and check one float at a time. To block off the three that I am not checking I use a 1' piece of tubing between the float hinge and the tang that keeps the float from bottoming out. After you set the floats with the caliper or whatever you use, check each float separately and keep making little adjustments until the level is correct. Then Block the float up and move on to the next carb. I made a bracket to hold the rack of carbs in my vice keep things steady. It is helpful if your alternate fuel tank has a valve that can be turned off while you drain the bowl.
This is a lot less trouble for me than drilling the drain screws.

[anikmankar]

drain plugs

I had altered an old brake bleeder. Rethreaded the back side to the same size as the carb drain plug. Get a goodsize washer of the same size.

Take the drain plug off. Put the washer and the modified breeder. Should fir tight with the figures and and then tighten with a spanner but 1/8th of a turn. fit a clear tube.

let me know if anyone needs any pictures for the same.