New bike and a strange noise

[Pete Logan]

i took the bike out for a ride the other night and cracked it open for the first time since i got it and once it got to around 7000 rpm it took off like had a huge power surge.

My 750 does that. It's like superchargers kick in at around 6500 and the damn thing just takes off.

You might want to take a look to find a factory power curve, or maybe someone here has one.

I think this is normal for these machines.

[Talon]

Thanks for the official unofficial welcome BassCliff, i found your website last night and looked around downloaded a couple pdfs and such, its a nice site you have there.

so i tried moving the clutch basket around and its totally solid in there, the clutch plates have a little bit of movement, but i dont think it would be out of spec. now for doing a carb sync, should i just take it to a shop once i get everything back together? I've never touched carbs before so i have no experience doing anything with them, but then again thats part of the reason why i bought this $800 bike... so anybody have a guide on syncing carbs?

[BassCliff]

Thanks for the official unofficial welcome BassCliff, i found your website last night and looked around downloaded a couple pdfs and such, its a nice site you have there.

so i tried moving the clutch basket around and its totally solid in there, the clutch plates have a little bit of movement, but i dont think it would be out of spec. now for doing a carb sync, should i just take it to a shop once i get everything back together? I've never touched carbs before so i have no experience doing anything with them, but then again thats part of the reason why i bought this $800 bike... so anybody have a guide on syncing carbs?

There is a very recent thread in this very forum, click here. You will also find a tutorial on Mr. bwringer's site, click here.

Thank you for your kind words, but my websites usually consist of a couple of pictures and links to documents, very static. I'm glad you found it and I hope you can make use of it. Keep us informed of your progress.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Talon]

hmm, it would be nice to see a factory power curve as well cause it was a huge difference almost instantly in the power of the bike.

[Dink]

The clutch rattle in these bikes can be caused by several things. The first of which is the outer basket itself, another cause is due to tiny little rubber bits in the rear of the clutch basket, these are there to dampen noise between the outer hub and the oil pump drive gears.
All Suzuki's are very sensitive to setup!!! They will run and tolerate incredible abuse, BUT if you want it to run and give its best near enough is not good enough, perfect is near enough!!!
Manuals are still available from Clymer, Haynes & Suzuki, you are best to learn to "do it yourself" as finding anyone else how will do it right is very close to impossible. Also if you ask youwill find someone hers who has been ther done that, and very likely lives not too far away and is willing to help.

Dink

[Muser3]

manuals

I can help with manuals as mine just came. I ordered the Haynes #737 and it covers the CHAIN DRIVE FOURS. I had ordered the Clymer manual and it did not cover them. From the Motor Bookstore. About 25 plus shipping

I also got the Suzuki service manual and it is likely a copy of the original, but it is fine. It came from repairmanuals.com, cost 44.95 plus 11.70 shipping. It is part # 99500-39013-03E. Worth the price to me.

The ARE hard to find.
Lee

[Dink]

I can help with manuals as mine just came. I ordered the Haynes #737 and it covers the CHAIN DRIVE FOURS. I had ordered the Clymer manual and it did not cover them. From the Motor Bookstore. About 25 plus shipping

I also got the Suzuki service manual and it is likely a copy of the original, but it is fine. It came from repairmanuals.com, cost 44.95 plus 11.70 shipping. It is part # 99500-39013-03E. Worth the price to me.

The ARE hard to find.
Lee

Take that part number to a Suzuki dealer.

Dink

[Big T]

ok so i pulled my clutch cover off today

here's a picture for fun!

While you're in there, remove the 6 bolts that hold in the center hub, carefully remove all the plates in order (try to pull them all out at once). Then check that big nut you find. Is it loose? Yeah , I know it has a locking tab washer.

If so, tighten it up to spec, reload the plates and replace the center hub, also tightening to spec.

Been there, done that, the next time it happened I replaced the outer hub

[Talon]

Thanks for the responses everybody. I haven't worked on my bike for a while cause i'm waiting for some gaskets and such, and for my next cheque so i can get some more tools, such as a torque wrench and some carb tools. Tools are never a bad purchase, I've learned that from my dad/brother/grandpa over the years.

anyway i saw this on craigslist and was wondering if parts from this bike would work on my bike and vice versa.

http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/mcy/469792632.html

I'm mostly thinking of stealing/switching the pipes on it and maybe some other stuff if i find anything else that needs replacing on my bike.
or i might work on getting that bike running if i can get it registered... not sure how that works with a no title vehicle out here in bc...

[Guest]

I don't think that's an 88. Clutch basket is different. Headers and pipes should work. Brakes and wheels should work.

[Talon]

ok so i finally got the gaskets i ordered a while ago and dove back into my bike again today. I took the clutch apart and the big nut at the back of it was pretty loose so i tightened it up and then put it back together after deciding that could have been a big contributor to the noise i was getting and everything else looked fine. i then took of the valve cover and put the gasket on there, with not too much trouble because there was no old gasket there to remove/scrape/clean off... then changed the oil filter and put in new oil.

as i was putting it all back together i kinda mixed up the spark plug wires so the ones on the right (while on the bike) might be switched around. the ones on the left should be correct because they're actually labeled 1 and 2. so how do you tell which plug leads are supposed to go where?

also when i put the clutch back together i may have overtightened the outer hub spring bolts a bit too much, or maybe not quite enough. When i started the bike after everything i wanted to test the clutch to see if it was working correctly. anyway when you shift into a gear and have the clutch pulled in it fails to cut off all the power to the wheel so it actually moves. is there an easy/external fix for this? or do i have to drain the oil again and go back inside?


Overall it was good i think. there seems to be less clutch noise while idling in neutral with the clutch out and it shouldn't leak oil from the valve cover anymore i hope and once i get those other issues fixed i can move on to working on the brakes!

any help is greatly appreciated
thanks!

[rphillips]

Be sure the cable is adjusted properly, just a slight bit of freeplay with clutch released. Be sure the lever the cable connects to, on the clutch cover, is at appx. 5 o'clock position, with clutch released. It's normal for this type of clutch to have a little drag, especially when cold & hasn't been used for a while. Put bike on center stand, in neutral, fire it up, & let it run for a min. or 2. Pull clutch in, & shift into 1st. Bike will probably jerk & rear wheel will start turning. Rev the bike a little, while applying the rear brake. rear wheel should stop, without stalling the eng. After warmed up good & some riding, you should be able to put bike on center stand & easily hold the rear wheel with just your toe against the tire. Be very careful with those little bolts, you can break them before you know it. An in. lb. torque wrench will take the guess work out of the bolt thing.

[Suzuki mad]

Bit late on this one sorry.

There are two small needle roller bearings that the clutch basket runs on. They fail also. Check that the basket has not been hitting the inside of the crankcase at the front where it meets the crankshaft area.

As its apart change the 6 springs that hold the clutch plates in.

Once its back together get the bikes carbs balance.

Exhausts, cut the old mufflers off where the down pipes fit to the collector (The middle two are already apart from the outers) and get some MIVV mufflers. They look like the originals and fit like originals also.

Side panels are still avaliable via Suzuki (change the little rubber gromets that they fit into.)

Seats always tear at the front. If you can find a replacement great but a good replacment seat cover will work fine. The base is plastic so no problems there.

Check your valve clearance's as the lock nuts on the adjusters have a tendancy to loosen with time.

Suzuki workshop manual cost me $68 from Bells Suzuki Lexington in 2005.

Hope that helps. Be great full one like that would cost you about ?500 UK pounds to buy.

Suzuki mad.

[Talon]

yeah i used a torque wrench while putting the bolts back on and tighened them to about 8.5 ft lbs according to the wrench i was using, but its just one of those cheap ones with the needle so how accurate it is i'm not sure. well i guess i'll start it up and see if it stalls while having it in 1st while having the clutch in and rear brake applied.
also if anything the clutch cable is a bit tight.

[Talon]

well the clutch seems fine. the bike runs about as good as it did before i think, theres no noise coming from the clutch now. still wondering about the spark plug cables a little, i tried switching them around and such and it wouldn't really run/fire with them on other plugs so i assume they're fine.

heh now i get to start reading up on brakes and how they work and such! and i also get to switch the pipes on this bike. the pipes on that 750 i just bought are in near perfect condition.

thanks for the help everybody!