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What size bolt do I need to replace the banjo bolt in my anti dive setup? I need diameter, length, and thread type. This is for removing the line and capping off the anti dive thing. Thanks
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Re: Banjo Bolts
I just went to the hardware store with the short bolt and matched it up. Biker 66 said that he just left the front bolt out and it works fine((I believe i read that)) He may have stuffed ther hole with dried FISKBULLAR though.Originally posted by lhanscom -
Brake banjo bolts are 10mm, fine thread 1.0 or 1.25 pitch I believe. Why are you removing the Anti-Dive units?
8) Andre 8)Comment
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I want to see how things are effected. I read the article in the 'garage' section, and wanted to see what the breaking was like with the anti-dive off. Also to how much diving the fork does without it. I did this last night, but it's snowing today and tomorrow, so I may try it on Sunday. Thanks for the help!Comment
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I have special springs in my tubes si I dont notice any diference. I just wante to get all that spagetti off thr bikeOriginally posted by lhanscom
if i had the tools i would make a replacement plate and get that godzilla looking unit off all together.Comment
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Good Idea, I think I have some aluminum plate I could make a nice little plate with. I'll do that if I like the performace without it. It looks kinda dumb or at least useless without a hose going to it.Comment
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But they're just so nifty lookingOriginally posted by slopoke
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So Star Trekish.Comment
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I haven't heard anyone else comment on this, my bike(82 1100E)came with a broken anti-dive valve and no oil in that tube, I rebuilt both tubes and blanked off the holes where the anti-dives had been. One day I was wailing down a dirt road and hit a good size hole, it blew one of the seals inside out! After disassembly I realized that the anti-dive valving is also the send/return path for the fork oil when brakes are not engaged, by omitting them entirely, the oil is forced through the fluid cup(inside fork leg under spring, looks like a thimble) return oil passages on the downstroke as well as upstroke, these are too small and overpressured the seals. I removed cups, figured the area equivalent of the anti-dive passages, divided the area needed by 2 and drilled 2 holes, each 1/2 the total required area, in the fluid cup to provide for proper, full and timely downstroke.Been working great the past 10 yrs. since. Hope that makes sense to someone!Comment
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Is this only an issue when you remove the anti dive unit? Where are the holes you drilled? Do you have a picture or what you did?Comment
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Yes, it's only an issue if you completely remove them and then blank plate over the holes.The reason being that there is a relief valve in the anti-dive unit that is no longer there when anti-dive is removed. The holes drilled are in the fluid return cup, inside the bottom of each fork leg(complete disassembly required) This was 10 yrs ago, before I thought anyone else would even care about an old bike,no pics but the circled area is the cupOriginally posted by lhanscom
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