Where did my clutch go?

[Jbeaber]

So, I'll try to summarize what I know.
Went to start the bike last night. It was in neutral with the sidestand down. I pulled the clutch lever in, pressed the button and absolutely nothing happened. I put the sidestand up (and the sidestand light went out), tried to start it again, nothing... I put the bike in first, no change. I then noticed that the bike was not rolling. Pulling in the clutch level would not allow the bike to roll anymore. So, that makes me (and others) think that the clutch plates might be binding. Tho, the bike is acting as though the clutch lever is not being pulled in, no roll and no starting. It's not even trying to turn over. So, electrical problem and mechanical?
I did take a quick look at the kill switch and didn't see anything grossly wrong. That makes me want to check out the clutch lever electrical switch to make sure nothing is wrong there. It is weird that there might be two separate issues that both started at the same time.
I have recently taken the front end of the bike off for fork seals and tires. I also put grips on the bike, which may have jostled some stuff.

[Guest]

To bypass the clutch safety switch take out the headlight and find the two wires that lead to the clutch switch under the clutch lever. Pull out the two wires and plug the two wires left in the headlight into each other.
Clean the kill switch. Take out the two phillip screws under the throttle, starter button and kill switch and split it apart and clean the switch with contact cleaner. Pay extra attention to the starter button cleaning this also. There is a tiny slot below the starter button for access. Do not take it apart.

The picture I posted was just to let you see what your clutch looked like and help you trouble shoot. When I said that cold oil was binding you clutch plates I meant that there is oil in between the plates and it is cold. This is normal. When oil heats up it becomes thinner.


Take off #23 in the pic and see it the clutch cable is actually actuating the clutch.

[salty_monk]

Are you sure the cable isn't broken or the part at the engine end isn't moving on the post?

Dan

[p_s]

I think you only have an electrical problem. I just tried pushing my GS in first gear--it's been sitting since Tuesday evening and it's cold here. It was quite hard to push with the clutch pulled all the way. When the engine is running the clutch does its job perfectly. When you pull the clutch lever you stop the springs from pushing the clutch plates together but nothing pulls them apart either. The clutch interlock is under the lever and has nothing to do with clutch adjustment--it'll work even without a clutch cable.

I have mixed feelings on disabling the interlock--I have started the bike in gear before (oops) but it is nice to be able to hold all your gear in your left hand while starting the bike with your right.

[TheCafeKid]

My lil Kawi has no interlock...and I've done stupid things before, like leave her in gear, and not be paying attention when i go to hit the start button to see that the neutral light was not on, and then had to catch her with one hand as she falls...Not so bad on a lil 380lb bike...but i've also had to catch my GS the same way...not because of that same reason, as my GS has no interlock either, being a kickstart variety, but i near lost my intestines trying to snatch her up from sure doom...lol Its a somewhat helpless feeling to say the least, using your weight to counter its weight. Total stalemate.

Anyway...im still of the opinion that clutch cable is broke. Even with an interlock, wouldnt it start without the clutch pulled in when it was in neutral?? I guess if the interlock wasnt seeing that the bike was in neutral that could be the case too, but have you actually checked that your cable is pulling the linkage for the clutch on the other end?

[Guest]

If the clutch cable was broken there would be no resistance at the lever.

[TheCafeKid]

Very true indeed! Thanks Bill for pointing out my assinine thought process!! LOL You say that it goes into all gears but wont roll tho?? ANOTHER assinine theory...have you checked that the rear brake isnt locked up?? At the moment mine is. and it has the same symptoms. But that still doesnt explain the not starting.

[TheCafeKid]

Btw Bill, when ya hit me with the shovel for being an idiot, kindly, not in the face?? LOL

[Guest]

I'm into sneak attacks. \\/

[TheCafeKid]

Thats ok..im a ninja..:-D

[Jbeaber]

Well ,another evening of banging my head against the gas tank with no positive results. Things I checked (and bypassed)
1. kill switch - checked it and bypassed it with a wire. When I flip the switch just normally I do see a very slight dimming of the head light in the on position as compared to off. Doesn't seem to be the problem.
2. clutch electrical switch - checked it and bypassed it with no result
3. fuses - all intact
4. start button - I had done some work to it. one of the tiny screws was missing when I got the bike. it is back in holding the assembly in place. All looked well there. I did not disassemble it last night, though
So, I am going to check the side stand electrical switch. Who knows, maybe it got bumped while the bike was propped during the tire change. It really seems like an electrical issue since i am not getting any response when the button is pushed. the rear brake isn't locked because the bike rolls just fine in neutral. I may need to check a lot of connections with the voltmeter to see if I can determine where there is a break. I'm not all that good at the electrical stuff, but I'll try to figure it out.
Can I unscrew the clutch cable connection to the engine without opening the engine side cover? Can I open the engine side cover without an oily mess? I can't check the clutch plate binding issue. If it is two separate problems, it is weird that they occurred simultaneously....

[salty_monk]

Far as I can see if pulling the clutch lever doesn't actually physically pull the clutch but does give resistance it could a few things:

1. Cable broke & jammed in sheath - Check movement at engine end.
2. Lever on top of post coming out of clutch cover has stripped splines & is spinning on the post (but still with resistance as it's broken!)
3. The post to pressure plate mechanism is broken or stripped.
4. Something is mangles inside, maybe a plate disintegrated or something.

The electrical issue seems to be something different.

Hotwire the clutch switch, hotwire the "run switch" & try touching together the two wires from the start button. That will tell you for definite if it's one of the switches.

Yes you can look at the clutch without draining oil, do it on the sidestand. You will lose a little bit though so put a tray underneath.

Dan

[p_s]

I think there's a good chance your clutch is just fine. You could try pushing it in second gear--you'll get better leverage. You should look at your starter next. It's under a little cover under the carbs. You could try push starting your bike too.

[Guest]

If you're light is dim you have a dead battery.

[Jbeaber]

So, we have answers.
All those who suggested it could be bound clutch plates, you are right!
The electrical problem, however... That is one of those things that reminds us that we are not nearly as smart as we sometimes think we are. I checked the clutch switch. I checked the kill switch. I checked the start button. I got the wiring diagram and mapped out the whole system. I started to follow all the wires so I could take voltmeter readings looking for broken wires. I started to follow the wires from the clutch electrical switch when I came across.... an unplugged wire. Yeah.... That's it... More updates in the project bike update....