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couple of Cam questions

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    #16
    Paco13,

    The method Frankenzuki mentioned is the easiest way of determing the cam center line angle with one suggestion. The Star method you described is also a equidistant method of measuring C/L angle.

    Degrees are crucial . . . You have got time so remove your stator cover & install a metal degree wheel unless it real warm in NY. Locate TDC on # 1 by installing a positive stop in a spark plug (break out the electrode from a fouled spark plug & install a bolt). Don't depend on the TDC mark located under the ignition cover. You will have to rotate the crank slowly forward till it kisses the spark plug stop (Record the value). Turn the crank backwards slowly till it kisses the stop (Record again). Adjust the TDC Wheel to zero by splitting the difference between those values. Verify TDC by rotating forward & back again and you have TDC when you record the same number either side of the positive stop.

    I share your concern about turning the crank backwards because it may introduce slack or backlash intro the measurement. Without going into a lot more detail I have an article on adjusting Cam C/L angles which I can scan & post for you on Wednesday. It's geared for a SOHC cam but the fundamentals are the same. The process of measuring Cam C/L angles takes practice and once you understand the method and then verify the results repeatedly you will always understand the fundamentals of dialing in Cams.

    PS: Back to cam wear. I don't recognize the manufacturer you mentioned. I would also inspect the forked cam followers for wear; they may be contributing.
    Steve

    1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)

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      #17
      Hey there SRSUPERTRAP. Any chance you can put a copy of that scanned article on adjusting Cam C/L angles on the post or would you mind sending me a copy as I too am trying to dial in and degree my cams at the present time. Sorry if I am hijacking this thread.
      Cheers
      Don

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        #18
        Hello,
        I have found some useful cam degreeing information & articles. Let's see if any of our fellow GS1100 drag racing & monster motor guys can help with following question . . . .

        1) Can anyone identify the Cam manufacturer with the CM G21 marks that Paco13 has found. If we can cross reference that information than all you have to do is contact the manufacturer and download their specific cam specifications & degreeing instructions. In lieu of that . . .

        2) Here is the article on finding Top Dead Center. The large photo on Page 27 is incorrect, mount the TDC Wheel on the alternator end as stated, not the ignition side. I have found if you mount the TDC Wheel as shown and turn the crankshaft backwards (CCW) you will loose the measurement and will have to start all over again.



        3) Here is the Cam Degreeing article that ties it all together. We still need to know your manufacturer's C/L angle. Study the illustrations. Adjust, verify & check again. Once you get the hang of it your final verification & tightening of the cam sprocket bolts should be done in the clockwise direction.

        MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.


        PS: I would shy away from using Red Loctite on the cam sprocket bolts. That stuff is a mother to break free.
        Steve

        1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)

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          #19
          Trust me on this one, as an engine builder, I use red loctite on EVERY cam sprocket bolt I install. If you ever have one come out you will ALWAYS use red loctite too! There is NO difficulty in removing the bolts with the red on them & we even WELD them on really BIG cams to keep them from moving. Even if the bolt doesn't come out, if it comes loose & allows the cam to rotate on the sprocket it can change the timing enough to tag all the valves. Either way it is VERY expensive. Good luck, Ray.

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            #20
            cam timing

            Well, you're right about the chain slack, if you are using a stock chain adjuster you will have a problem, less so with a mechanical adjuster. If you can check where max lift is and the do it all in one rotation check .040" before and .040" after and do your math from there.

            Ray is right about the loctite. If it moves you will probably either have very poor performance or at worst hit some valvetrain.

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              #21
              Well, I rechecked/set TDC. Then I rechecked numbers on #1 Intake.
              Using the method I was before I get 104
              Using Frankenzuki's method I get 103

              I went back and forth between each method 4 times, rechecking TDC to make sure nothing moved and all 4 times got the same results.:?

              I am checking with .005 valve lash cause I don't know what the recommended checking lash is for these cams.

              OH, When using Frankenzuki's I used .050 as per his first post and just went all around in one direction.

              Thanks again all, and Ray I will use Red when I'm done playing.
              Last edited by Guest; 01-23-2008, 08:53 PM.

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                #22
                figured out what they are

                The Cams are CAM MOTION G21's
                380 lift
                250 duration @ .040
                110 Lobe Centers
                Looks like I have some adjusting to do.

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