Which Clutch to go for - GS1000G

[salty_monk]

Which clutch comes recommended? When I looked at mine around 7000 miles ago the friction plates were 50% work (i.e. halfway between new & service limit). I was having trouble with slip & used stiffer springs to get it to work.

Now I'd like to get a lighter lever if possible so I'm thinking of changing at least half the springs to stock 3 & 3.

Whilst I'm in there I thought I might change the plates too... What ones are recommended?

Flatout sell stock for about $12.95. It says you need 9 but I count 8 on the fiche....

Z1 does a set for $9.59 each (says you need 8). Anyone used these?

There are some EBC sets on Ebay for $80 (suspect this is what Z1 has).

There are some Barnett ones on Ebay for about $140 incl the metal plates.

What should I go for? Is it really necessary to replace the metal plates? When I put the vernier on them last time they didn't appear to be worn at all. I probably should have run a pan scourer (green one) over them but I didn't... obviously I can this time though!

Dan

[tone]

I'd go for stock plates every time along with stock springs, they last longer & the steels are less likely to warp

soak the friction plates in fresh oil at least overnight before fitting as it cuts down on the initial wear & makes them bed in without hassles :-D

[Big T]

Don't do the Barnetts plates and springs
While it's very positive, you can't get it in neutral at the stoplight and the clutch pull is hard.
Ask me how I know.

The biggest thing about the metal plates is that they are perfectly flat. Use a piece of glass or a machinists stone along with a feeler gauge to verify

Anyone ever gone 50% Suzuki plates, 50% Barnett plates?

[walt]

I'd go for stock plates every time along with stock springs, they last longer & the steels are less likely to warp

soak the friction plates in fresh oil at least overnight before fitting as it cuts down on the initial wear & makes them bed in without hassles :-D

tone is right! unless you have a monster drag motor, stock clutch plates and springs are best.

[salty_monk]

If there is no operational problems with the clutch as it is, are the plates likely to be warped?

Any problems with using 3 stock springs & 3 aftermarket? I know with 6 stock it was slipping before & I don't want to go back to that. Maybe it was just the wear in the friction plates &/or glazed metal plates that caused it.

Dan

[brs127s]

The friction plates that JC Whitney carries are very good. They are made by Alto (www.ALTOUSA.com). They mate very nicely with the stock metal plates and springs. I had them in my 83 850GL. I had 12,000 miles on them, but had to replace them because the piano wire clip broke and chewed up the friction plate that was against it. The plates that were not affected by the broken clip were in perfect shape. I would have used the Alto friction plates again, but Alto just updated the plates and have not yet listed the ones for my 850.

That being said, I went the entire Barnett route on my 850, and am very happy with it. The Barnett springs make the clutch lever slightly harder to pull, but there is not that much difference. The Barnett metal plates are slightly thicker than the stock metal plates.

Both the Alto and Barnett work with synthetic oil, which is why I went with the Alto the first time and the Barnett the second time. I must say you can definitely tell the difference between the Barnett and all others. As far as finding neutral...I haven't had a problem yet. It definely grabs a lot better.

Hope that helps.

[Guest]

Another thing that can causer slippage is notches worn on the inner and main clutch hub. If the notches are really deep they can hang up the fibers and steels and cause slippage.
Are you using Barnett HD springs? I use three and three on mine with no slippage.
Do you use the same clutch plates and steels as my 1100? I have some good extra steels and fibers.

[Nessism]

My vote is all new stock springs and existing plates. Scuff up the steel plates if they look glazed. Bet you a beer this fixes the slipage problem.

[salty_monk]

It might do... I already owe you a beer!

There is no problem right now... apart from the heavier lever which is fine except for when fighting LA traffic or on a full day ride.

I know the fibers were at least half worn 7k miles ago so prob wouldn't hurt to replace them plus I also know that the old stock springs were in spec as far as free length etc so prob not weak.

The Springs I have in now are EBC replacements from Z1. I might go for 3 & 3.

Bill - I'll check for those notches, it's possible, would heavy springs help with that too? (cause it went away instantly with the heavier springs)

I imagine a combination of worn fibers (adds up to about 4mm from memory across 8 disks), glazed plates (probably from shock going from about 300 miles a year to 7k....) & perhaps worn rear clutch basket all adds up to excessive tolerance that the stock springs can't cope with.

Bill, I'm not sure mate, will have to check out a fiche & see if the part numbers match.

Dan

[Nessism]

Dan,
Maybe it's just me but I'd measure the plates and calculate how much total thickness you have lost off the plates. Once you know how much, you can shim the stock springs an equal amount to get the clamp load back to stock levels. Should work, in theory anyway...

[salty_monk]

That would work I think but I'm still wary of what would happen when the friction plates get really low, don't want to trash the steel plates & the basket for the sake of 80 bucks...

Good luck with the 550 sales, I'm tempted but it wouldn't be right me having one, I do too many miles & am not a polisher & they deserve better!

Dan

[80GS1000]

Don't do the Barnetts plates and springs
While it's very positive, you can't get it in neutral at the stoplight and the clutch pull is hard.
Ask me how I know.

+1 on that. I replaced my slipping clutch plates with Barnett plates and springs two summers ago and the clutch is very difficult to pull in. I want to go back to stock plates and springs.

[duaneage]

I have Barnett playes adn stock springs, I'm happy with them. The original springs were dead on as far as height and tension, but since they were cheap and I had a set I replaced them anyway. The plates measured fine and were not damaged.

I got screwed by a formula change in motor oil. I switched to Rotella T and haven't had any problems.

[TheCafeKid]

yanno... my 750's clutch lever was REALLY tight too with the motor that came with the bike. The PO had obviously some designs on a drag bike which makes me wonder now if he had a Barnet or some aftermarket clutch in there. It funtioned fine, but near broke your wrist to pull more than a couple times, and holding it in at a light was hellish. I now have a different motor thats going in it, and plan a rebuild from top to bottom on the old. Is there a way to tell when i pull the cover off if its aftermarket? Anyone know?