Bringing one out of retirement.

[Lynn]

Just got my "new? 1982 GS1100. Only 2600 miles. Over all it is in great shape. Of course, it needs some attention. Have to replace fork seals. Gas smells old, but it starts right up and runs perfectly. Going to put a little techron and some fresh gas in it. Still has the original tires on it. Rode it a couple of miles yesterday, but those tires scare me. Here is what I have planned for next weekend.
Fork seals and new progressive springs.
Flush brake system.
New front pads (got oil on one side from the leaking fork seal).
New tires front and rear (Pirelli Sport Demons)
Change oil and filter.
Techron and fresh gas, and new fuel filter.
Just want to make sure I am getting the correct parts.
EBC front brake pads #FA65 (two sets).
Progressive springs #11-1101
15w fork oil.
Clean and adjust chain (chain and rear sprocket look almost new).
Am I missing anything?
Also, the clutch lever is extremely stiff. Don?t know if I can remove the cable and lube it or if someone put some really heavy springs in it. I had an 80 GS1100 back in the early 80's, and I remember putting in some heavier springs when the clutch started to slip, but don?t remember it being this stiff.
Thanks for any input.
Lynn

[Nessism]

Get a service manual and go down the list of maintainance items. A couple of things that come to mind are cleaning/replacing the air filter and checking the valves.

I've brought back three different low mileage bikes to rideable condition and went through the carbs just to be sure everything was clean and the o-rings were soft and pliable (sealing well). In each case the o-rings were hard and brittle - the bike would run but I don't like leaving things to chance. In my view it's worth the work so no surprises pop up.

[posplayr]

HD Clutch springs

You might have a full set of HD clucth springs if the cable is OK.

I have been into my clutch but only with a complete oil drain. However with the bike on the side stand apparently you can remove the clutch cover and not have to drain the oil. I plan to alternate 3 and 3 OEM and HD clutch springs (also as suggested here).

If it tiunr out all of your springs were swapped out then this swaping three out for OEM (equaly spaced) hight help without loosing too much clucth grip.

Nice ride only 2600 miles wow. How did you find that?

Posplayr

[Lynn]

I already bought a factory service manual, and I have a friend (he bought the 80 model back from me in 85) with a Clymer manual.

I bought this one (I wasn't the high bidder, but he flaked out and I made a deal on it):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=330218722025&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=014

Lynn

[Lynn]

Can anyone confirm that these are the correct part numbers?

EBC front brake pads #FA65 (two sets).
Progressive springs #11-1101


Thanks.

Lynn

[Lynn]

You might have a full set of HD clucth springs if the cable is OK.

I have been into my clutch but only with a complete oil drain. However with the bike on the side stand apparently you can remove the clutch cover and not have to drain the oil. I plan to alternate 3 and 3 OEM and HD clutch springs (also as suggested here).



Posplayr

That's a great idea. Would probably be the perfect compromise.
Thanks.

Lynn

[BassCliff]

Hey howdy hey!

Hi Mr. Lynn,

Congratulations on your new acquisition. You have the right front brake pad. However, when I look at the "Product Search" at Progressive Suspension I find the 11-1107 for the '82 GS1100E and L. I hope this is not bad news. Anyway, this will make you happy. It's the hot, bold, rich, aromatic, fully caffeinated mega-welcome! \\/

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr.

And here are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Here are some extra links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

http://www.electrosport.com/

The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
If all else fails, try this:

http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/

Used bike buying checklists:

http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

[salty_monk]

Check your parts at www.z1enterprises.com might even be cheaper there too... fork spring just cost me $60.

Dan

[Zooks]

You might have a full set of HD clucth springs if the cable is OK.

I have been into my clutch but only with a complete oil drain. However with the bike on the side stand apparently you can remove the clutch cover and not have to drain the oil. I plan to alternate 3 and 3 OEM and HD clutch springs (also as suggested here).

If it tiunr out all of your springs were swapped out then this swaping three out for OEM (equaly spaced) hight help without loosing too much clucth grip.

Nice ride only 2600 miles wow. How did you find that?

Posplayr

LOL - Posplayr, did you suddenly become drunk when typing this line?:?

[Guest]

I was watching that bike.... nice! Get 'er fixed up and join us for a ride in July!

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=118753

Welcome to the site!

[hp1000s]

You might have a full set of HD clucth springs if the cable is OK.

I have been into my clutch but only with a complete oil drain. However with the bike on the side stand apparently you can remove the clutch cover and not have to drain the oil. I plan to alternate 3 and 3 OEM and HD clutch springs (also as suggested here).

If it tiunr out all of your springs were swapped out then this swaping three out for OEM (equaly spaced) hight help without loosing too much clucth grip.

Nice ride only 2600 miles wow. How did you find that?

Posplayr

Try lubing the clutch-cable first to see if the effort decreases. I just replaced the springs in my clutch just because they're old and new ones are cheap $(not slipping); and the new stock Suzi springs were almost .125" taller than the old springs I took out. Unless you have some major power mods done, I'd doubt you'd need to increase your lever effort w/ heavy duty springs.

Also...
Mr. Basscliff,
As always, you provide the world's best forum-welcome! * If it becomes anymore "complete", however; there'll be no need for the GSR...we'll just be logging-on to say "HELLO!" to each other.* I'm just jealous because I joined-up before your tenure...
Thanks,
Hugh

[Lynn]

Thanks Hugh:

That was my plan on the clutch cable.

Thanks for the mega welcome, Cliff. You are correct on the progressive part number. Fortuanately, I had not ordered yet. Just placed my order this morning. Unfortuanately, it doesn't look like I will get them by the weekend. Oh well, I guess I can wait another week. Have other projects that need done right now, anyway.

renobruce: Probably won't make it to any rides in CA. I live in Oklahoma City. 20 hours on a naked bike just to get to the ride... ouch. BTW, any one know of a good bike shop in the OKC area where I can take my wheels in and have new tires mounted. I know some shops don't like mounting tires unless you buy from them.

Nessism: thanks for the suggestion. I got a Honda Magnum about 10 years ago that had been sitting for several years. Couldn't even turn the throttle. Disassembled, cleaned and reassembled the carbs and it ran great. Only had that bike a few months. This one runs so well, I will probably just leave them for now.

Will keep you posted on the progress. But I fully expect to get on the road in two weeks. This bike is in such good shape, it just doesn't need that much.

Lynn

[basic]

lynn, congrats on the bike. i agree with the clutch ideas, and clean carbs is a good idea. it takes a few hours (not including dip time) and get the piece of mind that there are new parts in there and everything is working in tip top shape.

As for the shops, i would guess just call around and see. I don't know if there are any users from the OKC area though. I'm from near Hannibal, MO, about 8-9 hours from OKC.

[Guest]

You don't need no stinkin' shop! You've got us! :-D

[bonanzadave]

Lynn,

I do like the looks of your bike......:-D

Welcome to the EZ Boyz club !!!