What chain and why?

[Anonymous]

A year or so ago a side plate came off one of my chain links. I was told that the chain should be replaced rather than repaired and that I needed a 630 chain. I've always suspected that I was ripped off and that the garage simply repaired and cleaned up the chain and then charged me ?120 for a new one + ?40 fitting. A year later I'm now having to tighten the chain once every 600 miles or so. I guess I have to replace it? I don't know much about this but I'd be surprised if I'd really had a new chain and it needed replacing after 1 year/7000 miles, particularly as I'm always careful to lubricate the chain twice a week.
This time I'll replace the chain myself. How do I tell whether my chain is indeed a 630 (and what does this mean anyway?). Is it the number of teeth on the sprockets? I currently have 41 and 630 chains seem to be offered with a choice of 41 or 43 teeth sprockets. I don't know what I have on the front but the choice seems to be 14 or 18 teeth.
Most chains advertised seem to be 530s but, whatever I need, I seem to have a choice of standard, heavy duty or extra heavy duty. Am I right that I can choose any of those in a 630 chain but that I need to change the front and rear sprockets if I want a 530 chain?
I gather that if I change the sprockets and go to a 530 chain I might get better acceleration but, if that isn't a particular issue for me, is there any other good reason to change?

Thanks

Roger

[Anonymous]

630 and 530 relate to the size, and therefore the power handling capability of the chain. A 630 chain will take more power than a 530 chain.

The number should be stamped on the sideplates. 530 chains can also be known as "50".

You can keep adjusting your chain until you reach the wear limit marks on your swing arm.

Stick with the standard number of sprocket teeth (check you manual) and make sure you use at least a heavy duty o ring chain. Always change chain and sprockets together.

Changing your chain and sprockets can be fraught with problems if you don't have much experience.

[Dink]

630 is no longer stronger than 530 chain Ben. 530 chain is more than strong enough for our bikes, as it has seen development since our bikes we released, and advances in chain building have gone into 530 rather than 630 because "only dinosaurs use 630 anymore" dont agree look at the chain on a Hayabusa or an R1, however you MUST always replace chain and sprockets as sets, putting a new chain over old sprockets would explain the 7000 mile life from a new chain
Dink

[Anonymous]

Who's Ben?

[Anonymous]

Dink,

I agree that a 530 is strong enough, indeed I have a 530 on my tuned 1085cc GS.

You are wrong to say that 630's are not stronger than 530's though, like for like.

For equivalent type chains, a 630 will have a tensile strength of 48.9kN, whereas the 530 will be 42.7kN. (Source: DID chains)

However I take your point in that development has stopped and tensile strength is not the whole story. As I said I use a 530 myself.

[Dink]

I must admit that I have never looked at tensile strength either, and I too run a 530 conversion on my 1150.
Dink

[Hap Call]

Roger, I would advise going with a 530 chain. To do this you need to have a 6 mm thick washer made to go on the countershaft (where the small sprocket is) and order sprockets that go on a '90 to '95 GSXR-750. I am guessing you have a GS1000, GS1100, or a GS1150.

The advantages of the 530 chain is that it is lighter than the 630 (less rotational mass), is more available, and generally costs less. They use 530 chains on the new GSXR-1000 so you know it will handle the stress.

I advise that you use a riveted master link if possible...they are a little more reliable than the clip type. If you have to use the clip type, make sure the open end of the clip is opposite the direction of rotation of the chain.

Hap

[Anonymous]

You can tell a chain is 630 because it is gigantic compared to any other chain you look at. Also, I bought a non-orin 530 chain and it lasted about 5000 miles on my 400 because I didn't swap out sprockets.

Now for my question, how many 530 links does it take to replace 96 630 links?

Cheers, Steve

[Hap Call]

Now for my question, how many 530 links does it take to replace 96 630 links?

Cheers, Steve

I used 110 links on the conversion on my '81 1100

Hap

[Anonymous]

Who's Ben?

Ben only rides shafties, so he's not reading this thread. :-)

kim

[Anonymous]

Thanks everyone for your advice. I'm still weighing it all up, though I think I've got to make a decision soon.

Roger

[earlfor]

Re: What chain and why?

The numbers represent 1/8". #530 chain measures 5/8" center to center on the pins and has an inside width between the sideplates of 3/8".
#630 chain measure 6/8" (3/4") center to center on the pins and also has an inside width of 3/8". To retain the same overall gear ratio, divide the rear sprocket number of teeth by the countershaft sprocket tooth count. Then just pick a combination (if changing chain sizes) that yields the same ratio. Keep in mind that a 530 size countershaft sprocket with 14 teeth is much smaller diameter than a 630 sprocket with the same number of teeth and you may have to use a spsrocket with more teeth to have enough sprocket diameter for the chain to have clearance on the countershaft housing. I was using a 96 link #630 chain, and opted for a 14-38 conversion in #530 chain. I needed 114 links. I would order 120 links in #530 because the length you need is going to vary depending on your sprocket choices. Chains come in various grades and strengths. Depending on the grade you order either could have the same or different tensile strength. If you compare #530 and #630 chain in the same tensile grade, then #630 chain will be stronger. Either in the premium grades in plenty strong enough. Usually in the #530 size, there will be more sprocket choices and the cost of chain and sprockets is a bit less.

Earl

How do I tell whether my chain is indeed a 630 (and what does this mean anyway?). Is it the number of teeth on the sprockets? I currently have 41 and 630 chains seem to be offered with a choice of 41 or 43 teeth sprockets. I don't know what I have on the front but the choice seems to be 14 or 18 teeth.

Roger

[Anonymous]

Can't they tell what chain to sell you depending on horsepower? My old DID chain looks like a bicycle chain as the sidelinks are shaped like dogbones. My new chain has oval sideplates and the pins are staked on 4 edges rather than just 2. I just wish it came with the proper grease to put in the rivet link. That will be the weakest part of the chain for sure.

Steve

[focus frenzy]

chains? ROFLAO!!!!!!!!!!

[earlfor]

All the pins in a chain are primarily stressed in sheer and the side loading is minimal to zero. Peening the pin ends on four edges rather than two would offer no gain in strength. The grease that comes in a little bag with the rivet or master clip link will wear off just as fast as any other grease. You can use high temp wheel bearing grease instead. Accelerated chain wear is caused by putting a new chain on old sprockets, running a dirty/gritty chain, improper chain tension and insufficient frequency of lubrication. No chain will last long without proper maintenance ("O" ring chains included)

Earl

Can't they tell what chain to sell you depending on horsepower? My old DID chain looks like a bicycle chain as the sidelinks are shaped like dogbones. My new chain has oval sideplates and the pins are staked on 4 edges rather than just 2. I just wish it came with the proper grease to put in the rivet link. That will be the weakest part of the chain for sure.

Steve