Electrical Question

[Stryfe]

I have a 1980 gs850gl with a starting problem, before if you used the factory start button it would blow a fuse. But after I tracked down and replaced a faulty wire, cleaned the contacts for the start button, resoldered the wires to the kill switch (po had cut them and spliced them together), also bypassed the ignition shut off switch that's on the clutch handle (didn't want to tear apart the harness to find it, so ran starter y/g wire from the starter relay to the start button) I was able to start it a few times with the factory button. But the last time I turned it of with the kill switch just to make sure it was working and now it will not start.

Checked the wires in the start system by the wiring diagram and I have continuity so no breaks or shorts, but the weird thing is I have power going into the kill switch but doesn't seem like it's going out to the start button when it's in the run position, but I do have continuity across the kill switch when it's in the run position.

Anybody have any other ideas or things to check?

TIA

[earlfor]

The starter circuit has nothing to do with the ignition circuit. i.e., The starter button has nothing to do with the kill switch they are isolated from each other. The clutch switch breaks continuity on the starter circuit untile the clutch lever is pulled and then there is continuity to the yellow/green wire that runs to the solenoid to activate it. Remove the yellow green wire from the solenoid and put the multimeter red lead into the end of the wire, the black lead to ground or battery neg. Press the starter button. If the circuit is working properly, you should see 12+ volts everytime you press the starter button. The clutch switch can be bypassed (the leads going to it connected) and the starter circuit will work the same, without the lockout function.

The kill switch, when in the off position breaks continuity to the ignition system (coils). If you had the kill switch wired to break continuity in the starter circuit, you could not turn the engine off with it. You would not be able to start the engine, but once running, it would do nothing since it was not connected to the ignition in the first place and the starter is normally inoperative when the engine is running.

The problem is in how you have your kill switch wired. You have an ignition circuit problem. Disconnect the kill switch from any contact with the starter function. The output on the kill switch is an ignition supply wire. You should have (have caused to have) an unused lead in the right handlebar switch assembly that is the power supply for the ignition. Reconnect it to the output side of the kill switch.

Earl

I have a 1980 gs850gl with a starting problem, before if you used the factory start button it would blow a fuse. But after I tracked down and replaced a faulty wire, cleaned the contacts for the start button, resoldered the wires to the kill switch (po had cut them and spliced them together), also bypassed the ignition shut off switch that's on the clutch handle (didn't want to tear apart the harness to find it, so ran starter y/g wire from the starter relay to the start button) I was able to start it a few times with the factory button. But the last time I turned it of with the kill switch just to make sure it was working and now it will not start.

Checked the wires in the start system by the wiring diagram and I have continuity so no breaks or shorts, but the weird thing is I have power going into the kill switch but doesn't seem like it's going out to the start button when it's in the run position, but I do have continuity across the kill switch when it's in the run position.

Anybody have any other ideas or things to check?

TIA

[bakalorz]

The starter circuit has nothing to do with the ignition circuit. i.e., The starter button has nothing to do with the kill switch they are isolated from each other. The clutch switch breaks continuity on the starter circuit untile the clutch lever is pulled and then there is continuity to the yellow/green wire that runs to the solenoid to activate it. Remove the yellow green wire from the solenoid and put the multimeter red lead into the end of the wire, the black lead to ground or battery neg. Press the starter button. If the circuit is working properly, you should see 12+ volts everytime you press the starter button. The clutch switch can be bypassed (the leads going to it connected) and the starter circuit will work the same, without the lockout function.

The kill switch, when in the off position breaks continuity to the ignition system (coils). If you had the kill switch wired to break continuity in the starter circuit, you could not turn the engine off with it. You would not be able to start the engine, but once running, it would do nothing since it was not connected to the ignition in the first place and the starter is normally inoperative when the engine is running.

The problem is in how you have your kill switch wired. You have an ignition circuit problem. Disconnect the kill switch from any contact with the starter function. The output on the kill switch is an ignition supply wire. You should have (have caused to have) an unused lead in the right handlebar switch assembly that is the power supply for the ignition. Reconnect it to the output side of the kill switch.

Earl

I suspect it may vary by model or year, but his kill switch wiring may be ok.

I haven't messed with mine so I don't know how it is actually routed, but the book shows BOTH the starter button and coils being powered through the kill switch.

[earlfor]

I expect there would be some variance as with many other things from model to model, year/year. I've never come across one with the two functions together, but then, we're talking about 25 year old bikes and we're owner number 100 or something. :-) I'm more oriented towards telling someone something that works and will simplify the process of solving the problem as opposed to strictly following a preset route. I'm not sticky about staying inside the box. :-)

Earl

I suspect it may vary by model or year, but his kill switch wiring may be ok.

I haven't messed with mine so I don't know how it is actually routed, but the book shows BOTH the starter button and coils being powered through the kill switch.

[Stryfe]

The way the bike is wired and going by the wiring diagram once the key is turned to the on position the o/w wire going from the fuse box to the kill switch right above the start button is supplied with power, once the kill switch is turned to the run position power is suppose to run through it to the start button below it that has 2 o/w wires soldered to it, one coming from the kill switch the other going to the coils and then on to the ignitor. On the same pcb as the starter button is another contact that originally ran to the starter shut off switch and then to the starter relay, which was the g/y wire, but now is bypassed straight to the starter relay. Once the button is pushed the contact inside the switch bridges the two contact points and supplies power to the starter relay. But since I only checked the harness connectors at the coils for continuity maybe the short is at where the wires connect on the coils. Any suggestion on getting that epoxy looking stuff off of were the wires connect to the coils.

Also how many volts should be getting from the fuse box to the kill switch once the key is in the run position, I'm only getting a max of between 6-7 volts?

[psyguy]

I suspect it may vary by model or year, but his kill switch wiring may be ok.

I haven't messed with mine so I don't know how it is actually routed, but the book shows BOTH the starter button and coils being powered through the kill switch.

very true :-D
(i have the 80 850 as well)

[psyguy]

Also how many volts should be getting from the fuse box to the kill switch once the key is in the run position, I'm only getting a max of between 6-7 volts?

12v?
that's what you want on the coils and in the factory setup the wire for the coils goes through the killswitch

i would try to clean all the connections to the kill switch, the fuse box in particular

[psyguy]

[quote=Stryfe;793429]But since I only checked the harness connectors at the coils for continuity maybe the short is at where the wires connect on the coils. Any suggestion on getting that epoxy looking stuff off of were the wires connect to the coils.
[quote]
do you get the power on these connectors?

[psyguy]

the weird thing is I have power going into the kill switch but doesn't seem like it's going out to the start button when it's in the run position

sounds too simple, but this seems to be your main problem...

[Stryfe]

Well I fell pretty dumb today, but I figured I would throw the batt on the charger last night while I went and played in my pool tournament berfore I tore into the harness today (so glad I did). Turned it on today hit the button and walla turned over, lol.

As soon as my intake parts get here (suzuki is not very fast on shipping unless you want to fork over a mint in shipping charges) I can redo the charging system check, also looks like I might need a new batt, one of the cells is starting to boil over a bit while charging.

but I do appreciate all the suggestions and feedback.

thanxs again