Dyna S Ignition Question

[Nessism]

Recently bought a Dyna S DS3-2 ignition, which is listed as fitting a bunch of different GS bikes. The instructions talk about installing a spacer under the advance unit when installing the kit into a "late model" Suzuki that came with electronic ignition from the factory.

The kit I bought was used and did not come with the spacer. Does anyone know what the spacer does and will it be necessary to have one to install the kit on a '80 GS1000G that came with electronic ignition as stock?

Thanks in advance.

[earlfor]

I just finished installing a Dyna last week on my 450. The instructions made no mention of a spacer, but I found I had to make and install one anyhow.
On the 450, the advancer sleeve is taller than the Dyna rotor by about 1/4"
(The rotor slides down over the sleeve and keys into the tabs on the advance mechanism) Without a spacer fitted to the top of the rotor (goes between rotor top and 19mm flange washer on crankshaft end), the rotor would be free to lift up and out of the advancer. I made a spacer by stacking three large nylon washers and cutting the centers out to fit using a Dremel.

If your rotor fits without excessive up/down play, I dont see a need for a spacer.

Earl

Recently bought a Dyna S DS3-2 ignition, which is listed as fitting a bunch of different GS bikes. The instructions talk about installing a spacer under the advance unit when installing the kit into a "late model" Suzuki that came with electronic ignition from the factory.

The kit I bought was used and did not come with the spacer. Does anyone know what the spacer does and will it be necessary to have one to install the kit on a '80 GS1000G that came with electronic ignition as stock?

Thanks in advance.

[salty_monk]

Aha, now it makes sense... I get what it's for now I think.

Dan

[Nessism]

Aha, now it makes sense... I get what it's for now I think.

Dan

Yea, found another post in the archives talking about using a washer to get the end float of the rotor just right.

[salty_monk]

Yeah, big gap between the end of the advance shaft & the 19mm nut that would let the rotor rise up.
Got a couple of washers I'm grinding out to go on there....

Nearly rigged it.... will report back later!

[earlfor]

Be sure to leave about 1/32" gap so the rotor is free to rotate after the crankshaft end bolt is tightened.

Earl

Yeah, big gap between the end of the advance shaft & the 19mm nut that would let the rotor rise up.
Got a couple of washers I'm grinding out to go on there....

Nearly rigged it.... will report back later!

[salty_monk]

Woo hoo, big fat sparks on all 4! Losing some volts through the kill switch even though I've cleaned it all up. Unplugging the ignitor gained me another volt or so.

Far better than it was! Just "jerry rigged" right now but I'll run the wires properly & time it up tomorrow morning....

Thanks again Ed.

Dan

[earlfor]

The stock ignitor is supposed to be unplugged, removed from the bike and thrown into the trash. The Dyna has its own self contained ignitor box in the crankshaft trigger modules.

Earl

Woo hoo, big fat sparks on all 4! Losing some volts through the kill switch even though I've cleaned it all up. Unplugging the ignitor gained me another volt or so.

Far better than it was! Just "jerry rigged" right now but I'll run the wires properly & time it up tomorrow morning....

Thanks again Ed.

Dan

[salty_monk]

Sure, I knew that I meant unplugging it before I rigged up the Dyna S released another volt at the coils.....

Thanks for the pointer on the 1/32nd, that would be about 0.8mm. Will make sure I have something there.

Cheers,

Dan