Sheared off bolts and the right HeliCoil

[Guest]

thanks for the info
a great saving buying M8 and M6 but no shipping outside the usa, damn!

[Guest]

oOOOO. the bolts are still in there? ech. yeah, more difficult, for sure. try to get them out without having to drill them, per greg o's suggestion, cause, yeah, that alu. is so....ft.

[doctorgonzo]

oOOOO. the bolts are still in there? ech. yeah, more difficult, for sure. try to get them out without having to drill them, per greg o's suggestion, cause, yeah, that alu. is so....ft.

Yep, 2 bolts missing from valve cover. I think, oh, I can clean those out with a little pick and some brake cleaner and put a new bolt in there. Might stop my leaking until I pull the cover and put a whole new gasket on when I do the valves. When I try it, I get just to the point where it should be hitting the head and "doink" stops dead on something solid, tap it with pick and it's so hard it has to be an old sheared off bolt.

[Sniper]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but I've heard bad things about helicoils and am looking for other options for fixing sheared bolts (as there are 4 sheard exhaust bolts on my 850). I've seen other kits that would work, but they are really spendy!!! I also saw in another thread that someone drills, taps and locktights an alluminum rod into the old hole then taps it to replace the old hole.
This got me wondering if a person could drill the old bolt out, tap the hole (to create a jagged surface along the length of the hole), inject some sort of epoxy into the hole, and place a stud (of the correct size and projection) into the epoxy using the connection peice as a guide for proper placement of the stud. Has anyone tried anything like this? I found an epoxy called quicksteel that says it could be tapped also, so that could possibly be an option of using bolts instead of a fixed stud with a nut. I'm just not sure about the expansion/contraction of the block compared to they epoxy, if that could be a problem.
Just looking for some wisdom on the matter.

[doctorgonzo]

The consensus seems to be that Time Sert is a better choice than heli coil. I wound up not having to use either because once I got the cover off there was enough of a nub to weld a nut onto both of them and get them out. We'll find out about the header bolts in a few weeks when I do the exhaust.

[Junkie]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but I've heard bad things about helicoils and am looking for other options for fixing sheared bolts (as there are 4 sheard exhaust bolts on my 850). I've seen other kits that would work, but they are really spendy!!! I also saw in another thread that someone drills, taps and locktights an alluminum rod into the old hole then taps it to replace the old hole.
This got me wondering if a person could drill the old bolt out, tap the hole (to create a jagged surface along the length of the hole), inject some sort of epoxy into the hole, and place a stud (of the correct size and projection) into the epoxy using the connection peice as a guide for proper placement of the stud. Has anyone tried anything like this? I found an epoxy called quicksteel that says it could be tapped also, so that could possibly be an option of using bolts instead of a fixed stud with a nut. I'm just not sure about the expansion/contraction of the block compared to they epoxy, if that could be a problem.
Just looking for some wisdom on the matter.

I remember reading about someone doing something like this, don't remember how their luck went though.

[Zooks]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but I've heard bad things about helicoils and am looking for other options for fixing sheared bolts (as there are 4 sheard exhaust bolts on my 850). I've seen other kits that would work, but they are really spendy!!! I also saw in another thread that someone drills, taps and locktights an alluminum rod into the old hole then taps it to replace the old hole.
This got me wondering if a person could drill the old bolt out, tap the hole (to create a jagged surface along the length of the hole), inject some sort of epoxy into the hole, and place a stud (of the correct size and projection) into the epoxy using the connection peice as a guide for proper placement of the stud. Has anyone tried anything like this? I found an epoxy called quicksteel that says it could be tapped also, so that could possibly be an option of using bolts instead of a fixed stud with a nut. I'm just not sure about the expansion/contraction of the block compared to they epoxy, if that could be a problem.
Just looking for some wisdom on the matter.

You're right, helicoils are complete junk. I put some info in this thread that you may find useful - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=123303 scroll down to the 3rd post.

[Guest]

You're right, helicoils are complete junk. I put some info in this thread that you may find useful - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=123303 scroll down to the 3rd post.

do you know if there are timeserts (or similar inserts) that can be installed when an application calls for a fitting FLUSH with the surface (and not slightly raised like with regular timeserts)?

[Zooks]

do you know if there are timeserts (or similar inserts) that can be installed when an application calls for a fitting FLUSH with the surface (and not slightly raised like with regular timeserts)?

Yes there are. I will try and dig up the name of them for you and post it here. They use them in race car engines all the time where two surfaces need to fit flush (manifolds etc).

[Zooks]

This isn't the one I was thinking of but it looks quite impressive - http://fulltorque.com/

[Guest]

thanks zooks!