Head bolt question

[doctorgonzo]

Hopefully this doesn't make me sound TOO retarded...

Put about 100 miles on since valve adjustment (GS1000G), and so far, so good on no leaks from the valve cover or half moons (new gasket, light sanding of both surfaces, and a thin bead of ultra grey)

I do have a little weep from around my head though. It actually seems to have gotten a bit worse since I no longer have leak from the cover, but ANYWAY, it seems to be coming from around the two short head bolts that are right by the spark plugs on cylinders 1 and 4. They are both fairly rusty and crappy looking. I had intended to check the torque on them tonight when I got a bit concerned those old bolts might snap even at proper torque (no intention of over torqueing). My question is this. If I removed those two bolts and replaced (I have a full set of stainless bolts for the head) would there be any risk to that? I mean might I make the leak worse by taking that bit of torque off the head long enough to swap the bolts? I intend to pull the head, replace the gasket and do all the bolts in the future, this would be an interim measure. Any thoughts?

[Guest]

it is really the 12 nuts that hold everything together and not these smaller bolts
in the torquing sequence they are done at the very end, so it is safe to unbolt them for replacement
i would first check the 12 nuts for accurate torque
for the small bolts i'm not sure if using ss bolts (as a material) is advisable, i suppose the required torque is not that great to require high-tensile bolts, but let someone else comment on this
if these small bolts indeed are your problem, id be weary about stripping the alu threads in the head

[Guest]

They are both fairly rusty and crappy looking. I had intended to check the torque on them tonight when I got a bit concerned those old bolts might snap even at proper torque (no intention of over torqueing).

i wish i was this thoughtfull about these SAME bolts
(yes, one snapped) :shock:

[doctorgonzo]

i wish i was this thoughtfull about these SAME bolts
(yes, one snapped) :shock:

A DAMN IT! moment I'm sure.

Held off doing it last night. I'm going to put the SS ones in tonight. I forgot to look at the torque specs, I'll check that obviously. Going to buy a torque wrench (mine sucks) at luch. I'll check those nuts while the tank is off, guess I might as well install my new petcock while it's off (and down to less than 1/4 tank) as well.

Thanks for the info that those are last in the sequence. I should have thought to check that. I think that does make it pretty safe.

[hampshirehog]

You'll have no problems in replacing these with SS bolts and won't muck up any seals on you gasket anywhere. These bolts seem like they were designed to rust and I have done this on every GS I've ever owned or worked on. Don't forget to smear a bit of copperslip on the threads to stop the SS / Alloy reacting.

[Guest]

Going to buy a torque wrench (mine sucks) at luch.

good luck finding one that accurately does both the head nuts and those bolts - this might have contributed to me snapping that one bolt - as the torque required was just below the lowest setting on my wrench - and i suspect your average torque wrench wont be that accurate at either ends of the scale (so i might have accidentaly over-torqued the already "retired" bolt?)

[TheCafeKid]

Anyone know the size and what not of these particular bolts? My 1100G has some rusters too...just about the only bit of rust on the thing and as such it stands out like a sore thumb. I really would like to replace them soon.

[Guest]

Pull the valve cover and retourque the head if you have a 16 valve. If not just retourque the head bolts in the tightening sequence in your manual. Loosen them first and then tourque them with a tourque wrench. Thirty pounds I believe.
Those small end bolts and the one on front center I never tighten down much more than ten pounds.

[Zooks]

Anyone know the size and what not of these particular bolts? My 1100G has some rusters too...just about the only bit of rust on the thing and as such it stands out like a sore thumb. I really would like to replace them soon.

Why not clean up the heads (of the bolts) with some rust convertor and then just touch up the heads with a small paintbrush and some rustproof paint?
Less work and no chance of snapping a bolt. Why pull them out if you don't have to?

[TheCafeKid]

Why not clean up the heads (of the bolts) with some rust convertor and then just touch up the heads with a small paintbrush and some rustproof paint?
Less work and no chance of snapping a bolt. Why pull them out if you don't have to?

Not a bad idea Zooks, but I will likely be swapping to SS bolts all around soon, so if i can find a SS bolt to convert THESE too, great. If not, I WILL use your idea, as its pretty darn sound

[Zooks]

Thanks. I do this all the time as a 'cheat'. A small artists brush works well. Just make sure you get one with real fibres not nylon (they melt in paint solvents).

It gives the bike a tidy look for half the work. It's obviously not 'showroom' tidy but it works for me.

[TheCafeKid]

Indeed! At some point, i should like to pull the motor out of him and give it a PJ1 paint job with the factory silver. It doesnt look horrible now, but its starting to show its age just a bit. My goal is to keep this thing in as near mint as possible. I want to do a Cooley paint job, but I will likely do it on a second set of body work, so that i can return it to stock form at any time. The stock pipes are still in pretty decent shape, but at some point i know they will croak, and thats a shame, cos i know they will be a bloody bi7ch to find again.

[Guest]

from memory the side bolts (on 850) are M6x45, 7pounds torque

tck, when you say you would replace the bolts all around with SS, what exact bolts do you have in mind?
im pretty sure ive read that SS is not good for high-torque engine bolts

[TheCafeKid]

Obviously the motor studs i cant do, but all the others, case covers, valve cover, those two, the normal ones yanno..