Is it my Battery or Stator?

[slowride]

Good evening group, March 17, I finally got my bike running and it seems to be running great, except, the battery does not seem to hold a charge. I thought my battery might be near its end or maybe my stator isn't charging the battery. So, I went through BassCliff's recent "Testing the Stator, Pictorial Guide", in fact, I did it twice. Everything seems to be fine except for the first step when I am checking the battery with the voltmeter.

With the engine idling and the voltmeter hooked up to the battery, I only get a reading of about 11.5 volts. At higher rpm's it doesn't get any better. All the other steps seem to check out just fine. The resistance between the stator legs checked out good, .9, .9, and 1.0. The continuity to ground was OL, OL, OL, just as BassCliff says. Finally, with the engine running at 4000 rpm, my meter read at about 72 volts for each wire.

Does this mean I still may have a bad stator or is it my battery? OR, could there be something else?

While riding there are no problems. But, if I stop to fill up with gas or anything else, where I turn the engine off, there is a great chance it won't start, unless I run down the street with it and jump on it and pop the clutch.

Ed

[jbs80106]

Could be your Regulator/Rectifier

Its in-between your battery and the stator. Stator wires should connect up to the wires leading to the Reg/Rect. If you tested the voltages coming off the stator wires and they're good (passing) then your voltage regulator is probably shot (it converts the 70 or so volts AC into 14.5 or so volts DC to charge the battery).

I say 'or so' because I don't have the specs in front of me. Its about $100 to replace. Having done it 2x now, I think I'd suggest going with the Honda version as opposed to the after market ones you'll find...someone on the site sells them with the wiring instructions....duanage I think.

[slowride]

Well, that makes sense to me. Is there any way to test the regulator/rectifier to see if it is bad or does the tests I did indicate that? Is there anything specific to make it go bad? I jumped it a couple times from my car this past month when it was cold and didn't start on its own. Would that affect it?

Ed

[bakalorz]

Well, that makes sense to me. Is there any way to test the regulator/rectifier to see if it is bad or does the tests I did indicate that? Is there anything specific to make it go bad? I jumped it a couple times from my car this past month when it was cold and didn't start on its own. Would that affect it?

Ed

If you jumped it with a running car it could damage it, but usually that results in it charging too high, not too low.

Before you do anything else, clean ALL the connections related to the charging system.

On the positive side there will be a connector or two, and the main fuse.
Do the other stuff in my sig.

That may be enough to cure it.

If not, go to the stator papers and start at the begining.

[twistedwankel]

With the engine idling and the voltmeter hooked up to the battery, I only get a reading of about 11.5 volts. At higher rpm's it doesn't get any better. All the other steps seem to check out just fine. The resistance between the stator legs checked out good, .9, .9, and 1.0. The continuity to ground was OL, OL, OL, just as BassCliff says. Finally, with the engine running at 4000 rpm, my meter read at about 72 volts for each wire.

Does this mean I still may have a bad stator or is it my battery? OR, could there be something else?

While riding there are no problems. But, if I stop to fill up with gas or anything else, where I turn the engine off, there is a great chance it won't start, unless I run down the street with it and jump on it and pop the clutch.

Ed

Take it to Autozone or Advance Auto and have them test it on the bike for you for "free". Also clean your starter - it's full of carbon.

[Nessism]

Sounds like the R/R is bad. Did you check the Stator Papers, accessed through the GSR home page?

[slowride]

No, I did not check the Stator Papers but I will do that now. Thanks.

Ed

[Guest]

No, I did not check the Stator Papers but I will do that now. Thanks.

Ed

you need to have a fully charged battery that holds the charge for this test to be accurate though...

[terbang]

Make sure that the steel plate that the R/R and fuse box E.T.C is correctly earthing to the frame. And yes, you do need a fully charged battery to do the test. With those numbers it would be fairly safe to say that your battery isn't the problem.

[slowride]

I read the Stator Papers and tested my R/R according to the directions. I put my meter on diode check and did not get any reading on any wire. Then I remembered you guys said the battery had to be fully charged. I check the battery with my meter and it read 11.65 volts. Is that too low to check the R/R?

From what I have read, it sounds like it is the R/R so I went ahead and ordered one from duanage. It is a beautiful day here to go for a ride but since I've been goofing off (wrenching and riding) so much lately, I had to pay the price and catch up on the yard work.

Ed

[Steve]

If your battery reads 11.65 volts, it is seriously in need of a proper charge. A fully-charged battery should read 12.6 or more.

One more way to help determine if you battery is in decent shape is to watch the voltage drop when you start the bike. Connect your meter leads to the battery and watch the voltage as you hit the starter button. It should not go below 10.0 while the starter is cranking. Of course, this assumes that it was above 12.6 before turning on the key and pushing the button.

.

[slowride]

Thanks Steve. I better charge it.

Ed

[duaneage]

Charging it off the bike will prevent the stator from having to do the job, and that is a good thing.

I have a solar powered battery minder that tops the battery off when i am not riding it for a week or more.