Turn signal issue.

[groundshock]

Well, those readings were done with the rear signals disconnected. At no point did the turn signal bulb come on, ever.

I connected the rear LED turn signals and these were the results from the identical test:

1 - at left blinker, switch in center off position - 0.0v
2 - at right blinker, switch in center off position - 0.0v
3 - at left blinker, switch left position, 11.07v steady
4 - at right blinker, switch left position, 9.32v steady
5 - at left blinker, switch right position, 9.35v steady
6 - at right blinker, switch right position, 11.07v steady

What I did try was to take a jump wire from the right turn signal hot wire and grounded it to the frame while it was still hooked up to the signal light. More interesting results, as when the switch was on left turn, the relay finally clicked and the right side shut off. It didnt blink, but it wsa some semblance of progress.

I'm leaning towards the whole problem being the LED's, even though I 'assumed' they werent the problem. The electronic flasher did diddly squat. Perhaps finding a solution to using resistors would fix the deal after all?

[Steve]

The only thing I see different in the wiring diagram for your bike is that there is only one turn signal indicator light shown. Is that correct? The diagram shows the indicator between the black and green wire coming out of the switch, which doesn't make sense to me since no ground is indicated.

It's actually a rather simple, ingenious arrangement. However, I am not sure it will work with LED signals. In fact, it might be the source of the problem. :shock:

The dash panel indicator is connected across the hot wires of both turn signals. With the stock signals connected, when the left signal is ON, it energizes one side of the indicator bulb. The other side is connected to the hot side of the right signals, but can not pass enough current to light the signals, so the filaments in the signals merely act as ground wires for the indicator. The same thing happens on the right side...the indicator uses the left signals for grounds. Just a side note here...if you were to come up with a method for enabling 4-way flashers, the dash panel indicator would not come on, as both of its wires would either be hot or cold at the same time, it needs a difference to operate.

Thinking through this schematic, it is possible that with the LED signals, the dash panel indicator light passes enough current to make the other side hot, too.
Try removing the indicator bulb from its socket and let us know what you find. 8-[

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[groundshock]

Ill go give it a shot right now. BRB.

[groundshock]

GENIUS!

Pulling the indicator bulb allowed the opposite side to shut off! GOOD DEAL!

I wonder if replacing the bulb with an LED variant would solve the issue since the LED wouldnt forward near as much voltage?

Now the only thing to figure out is why they won't blink? Purchased an electronic 3-prong flasher as recommended in other threads but it simply will not flash.

[Steve]

Give me a minute or three and I will dig up a schematic for using LEDs for the dash indicators. You will have to use two of them, but you might be able to fashion something with two yellow LEDs in the same space. They don't have to fill the entire yellow lens, as long as they can be seen.

BRB.

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[Steve]

Ooops, I mis-remembered the schematic.

It only uses ONE LED for the indicator, so you are in luck. This picture shows the original and the modified circuits.



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[groundshock]

So I imagine it's as simple as just soldering in a pre-wired amber LED?

Yay!

Now I just gotta figure out how to blink em.

[Steve]

So I imagine it's as simple as just soldering in a pre-wired amber LED?

No, not quite that easy. There are two diodes just above the LED that keep the current from going to the other side. If you follow the current from the left side, it will go through the diode just left of center, then go down through the LED to ground. Current can not go through the diode on the right to get to the right signals. The opposite happens when the right signals are on. If you don't have a yellow LED that is "wired" for 12 volts, you will also have to add a resistor. Depending on the LED, it might need a 220 or 330 ohm resistor.

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[groundshock]

We have these pre-wired LEDs at work that already have the resistor built in.

That should be it eh?

[Steve]

No, you still need the two diodes facing each other, with your pre-wired LED in the middle.

Take another look at the schematic.

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[tomm]

... so the filaments in the signals merely act as ground wires for the indicator...

Thanks for the clarification Steve. Sometimes the obvious flies right by

[groundshock]

OK, so Im stuck again.

Tried a 3-terminal EP34 flasher, grounded, no flash, lights dont even turn on.

Went to a two-terminal flasher, lights come on, dont flash.

Left the indicator bulb out.

Any ideas here? Im going nucking futs.

[groundshock]

Any ideas?

[groundshock]

Fixed.

Added a 10 Ohm/10 Watt resistor in each side of the turn signal circuit, works like a charm.

On to the next stage.

[GSJohn]

Fixed.

Added a 10 Ohm/10 Watt resistor in each side of the turn signal circuit, works like a charm.

On to the next stage.

Like the suggestion in post #2? Just kidding ya. Glad you got them to work!