Need Manometer info please.

[Outlander]

Okay, I got me a nice manometer. Yes, the professional type, with mercury, restricters, and adapters, though I need 2 more. Figure I can do 2 carbs at a time, starting with 2 and 3, seeing as 3 is the master carb.

Is it absolutely necessary to do all 4 carbs at once? Or can I do 2 at a time? Or...where can I get 2 more adapters? I was thinking a hobby store, for like fuel fittings, also known as bulkhead fittings, for model planes or cars. Though I don't know if they have them in metric.

On cv carbs, 2 and 3 need to be lower than 1 and 4 by a half of a mark, right? Also, do I need to calibrate the manometer? The manual, "clymers" said it needs to be calibrated, yet I can't figure out how to do so.

What rpm should I be running at when I sync my carbs? If the idle raises or decreases during this process, do I reset the idle to that rpm? Like say it is 1800 rpms, and I make an adjustment, and she shoots to 2500 rpms, do I readjust my idle screw to 1800?

Any thoughts on this?

[ryonker]

Okay, I am a total beginner. But from what I have read, yes you need to do all four at once. The point is getting them all in sync, together. And my monometer instructions say you need to get them the same. So thats what I did for mine.

Rick

[Nessism]

Suzuki recommends to set the center two carbs slightly lower for bikes using an exhaust with crossover pipe.

There is no calibration for mercury type gauges so don't worry about that.

You can get away with using two gauges but I'd keep one hooked up to the #3 carb at all times - it's the master on CV racks.

Adapters are hard to come by. Some people make their own by drilling a screw and epoxying in a piece of tubing of appropriate size.

[Guest]

I recommend getting one of them thar four tube thingy models.
It won't be right only using two. I move one sync screw and it moves all the others.

[Guest]

you can sncy one carb at a time against the #3 (so #3 stays connected all the time and the other manometer you swap from 1 to 2 to 4)
to my knowledge suzuki (acc to haynes) calls for two centre carbs to have lower readings to compensate for the "difference in the intake length"
this didnt make sense to me so i synced them all the same

yup, keep the idle at a constant rpm, so if it goes up during the adjustment, wind it back out to the rpm you started with
follow your manometer instructions on what rpm to use and stick to one rpm setting only (using various rpms is likely to disturb/confuse your readings)
keep us posted

[Outlander]

synching carbs....update

Alright, using the manometer that I have, as described in my previous post on this thread, I hooked it up to carbs 2 and 3. I proceeded to make some adjustments, as they were waaaaaay out of whack. This is what happened. I loosened the adjustment screw on carb 2, to match it to 3. I turned it in, as my number 3 carb was higher than two. My idle increased to 3000 rpms. I went to lower the idle to 1800 where I was. I turned my idle screw all the way out with no effect. I can not get my "Master" carb, to drop idle. My cable is not tight, I have slack in it, so I don't know what else to do? Please help.

[Outlander]

update to my update:

Okay, so I tried something different. I tried turning carb 2 the other direction, turned it out, instead. It works...so I continued to play with them until 2 and 3 were identical. Now the other problem, getting the adapter out when the engine is hot...many burns later, I pulled the adapter out of 2 and put the screw back in. Moved to 1, keeping 3 where it was, I did the same thing, accept I let the mercury be slightly higher in number 1 cylinder, as I have cv carbs. Finally, I did 4. I got my carbs either really really close, or there is something else that is wrong. Granted, the bike is on the same page, as I got a better idle, better acceleration, better power, etc. Just seems a bit rough. Ah well, least she runs and drives. Even starts hot with just a hit of the starter.

Later on, I will do a plug pull, and see where I am. Perhaps I need to adjust my fuel/mixture screws a tad.

Whooooooo hooooooo....almost there!!!!

[Guest]

using gloves can help avoid burns

you seem to be on the right way
but yeah, sync alone is not enough, you do need to fiddle with the pilot mixture screws too
with the engine fully warmed up and clean spark plugs in, go for a ride with a throtle open to 1/4 turn max, read the plugs and adjust the pilot screws acordingly
repeat the process as necessary

[chuckycheese]

I can't imagine how you can synch all 4 by doing 2 at a time....I feel pretty sure I couldn't. Sometimes, it's a pretty good trick, even when you're working with all 4 at once.

[Outlander]

Well, I guess the biggest task was synching number 2 to number 3. Once those are synched, leaving the hose on number 3, I was able to go to 1 and then 4. I have found my bike running rich afterwards, but a few tweaks on the fuel/mixture screws took care of that problem.

Sure, it isn't spot on, but awfully close. Far better than what it was. Yes, the bike is drivable. I took her out and rode her for a bit today. She is definately a lot better than before.

Perhaps when I am able to get 2 more adapters for this bike, I will do a complete four carb synch to see how far off I am. I would have to say perhaps a slight adjustment here or there is all that it should take.

All isn't doom and gloom.....

[Steve]

You can get permanent adapters from Z1 Enterprises.
They cost about $7 each, but you only have to remove the rubber plug and install your gauge hose.
I will be getting some soon for my bikes.

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