Some jetting questions...

[tkent02]

Do you use a stubby or right-angle driver (or both) for the float bowl screws?
I have a driver that is long enough to get the tops off.

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Same little bit holder that I use for the fuel screws underneath, but with a Phillips bit. The little finger drivers or whatever it's called, like a little wheel that holds a bit. If I'm going to do it often, I use Allen head screws, makes it literally a five minute job to change all the main jets.

And for the needle clips, Allens on the top cover and on the screws inside the slides, have a foot long T handle driver for those. Still takes a bit of dexterity to get the needles back in, but it's easier than pulling the carbs.

[makenzie71]

There are pleanty of posts on it...The search function works GREAT...it *shouldnt* be TOO hard for him to find it...

there are lots of posts on it. thousands come back as search results. after looking for a little while and only seeing references to dynojet kits and such, nothing about the actual jetting, I thought I would ask. Had I expected this BS I would have kept guessing...like I've had to do with every other issue I've brought to you people (other than cylinder order. this forum had no problem answering that question...go figure).

[doctorgonzo]

Shoot, I've pulled my carbs 27 times with a Dynojet kit.

I'm only on my 4th or 5th. I did have a proud moment last night though as I spent the last several days doing a total tear down and dip with o-ring replacement, a new slide and repair to the diaphragm on a couple other slides. About 2 minutes on prime, pull the choke, second crank it started, sputtered for a sec then ran great. My first carb teardown. Whoo Hoo!

I'd add, that's mostly because you and I are chasing that 5 % to 10% because we're freaks where most people would just say. Wow, it runs great.

[Steve]

Still takes a bit of dexterity to get the needles back in, but it's easier than pulling the carbs.

Yeah, I know what you mean. There have been times that the needle just does NOT want to go through the hole in the jet, and has to be pushed into place with a finger in the intake. THAT would be kinda hard to do by snaking something through the airbox.

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[dpep]

Had I expected this BS I would have kept guessing...like I've had to do with every other issue I've brought to you people (other than cylinder order. this forum had no problem answering that question...go figure).

makenzie, do you think "we people" owe you something?

[Mark M]

Had I expected this BS I would have kept guessing...like I've had to do with every other issue I've brought to you people

I have an 8 year old that has a very similar attitude right now. And I've told him that it will get him nothing in the world and very little help from people around him. I need to save this thread and show it to him...

makenzie, when you come in and have a crap attitude and dump all over people, no one is going to help you. That IS how the world works. There are at least two people here that could answer your question off the top of their head, TheCafeKid and Keith Krause. You just ****ed one of them off and screwed yourself. You either need to play nice and hope Keith feels like helping out or hope that TCK decides you aren't a jerk after all.

Or do it yourself and leave us alone. You do get what you give in life, you know.

Mark

[tkent02]

Yeah, I know what you mean. There have been times that the needle just does NOT want to go through the hole in the jet, and has to be pushed into place with a finger in the intake. THAT would be kinda hard to do by snaking something through the airbox.

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That's when you put the needle in the slide first, then put in the slide...

The slides can stay in place in the bores... Don't disconnect anything, just remove the top covers.
When the slide is all the way down, set the needle with the spring and spacers down into it's hole in the bottom of the slide, it has no choice but to go into the jet. Drop in the little plate and use a slightly magnetized long Allen head screwdriver to put the screws in the holes. Be careful the plate doesn't flip over upside down. It can be done with the Phillips head screws but it's a lot harder.

With pods it's easier to pull the carbs, with airboxes I do it this way.

[Mark M]

With pods it's easier to pull the carbs, with airboxes I do it this way.

Tkent, thanks for clearing that up. I have pods on my 1100E and was trying to figure out why anyone would try to change jets and needles with the carbs in place. I can pull carbs in about 4 minutes if I don't hurry and it is SO much easier to work on the bench than in the frame.

The airbox is a totally different story... That is part of why I have pods now!


Mark

[Steve]

The slides can stay in place in the bores... Don't disconnect anything, just remove the top covers.
When the slide is all the way down, set the needle with the spring and spacers down into it's hole in the bottom of the slide, it has no choice but to go into the jet.

OK, I understand all that, but how do you wrestle the circlip into place?
That is why I pull the slides, just to make it easier to get to the circlips.
I guess this might be possible with right-angle circlip pliers, is that what you use?

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[tkent02]

OK, I understand all that, but how do you wrestle the circlip into place?
That is why I pull the slides, just to make it easier to get to the circlips.
I guess this might be possible with right-angle circlip pliers, is that what you use?

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Forgot the CVs use circlips, Vms use screws to hold the needle plate into the slide...
Might be hard to find a tool for the circlips.

[Steve]

Might be hard to find a tool for the circlips.

Nah, Z1 carries them. I have a straight model, therefore I pull the slides.

[doctorgonzo]

Nah, Z1 carries them. I have a straight model, therefore I pull the slides.

I need to get me some of those. I have a pretty thin nosed pair of nedle nose that I ever so slightly bent the points inwards towards themselves so they hook well on the circlip when open. Still a bit of a pain, though I guess even with the tool it can be a " I better put this down before I fling it across the room" task from time to time.

[Steve]

Here is the link to them: Pliers

As usual, good tools are not cheap. $22.49 from Z1.


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[makenzie71]

makenzie, do you think "we people" owe you something?

Owe? Absolutely not. Forums such as these, however, are about generosity. They always have been. That means you benefit others with knowledge and comradery. If all someone can give is wasteful banter and nonsense, they should expect disrespect in return.

There have been people here who have been eager to help me...recently and years ago. And then there are people who have chosen to be wasteful of time and space with their pomp. I reward each as they are deserving.

I will mention that the pliers above...while they, specifically are not available, harbor freight carries something very similar for under $5. Mine look almost identical and I got them for $3 in their last sidewalk sale. They had several different varieties. And before anyone jumps on the boat...I've made no comparisons concerning quality, but my cheap circlip pliers haven't failed me yet.

[mriddle]

go tck ....

They DONT make a kit for the 79 750, or any 750 before 80. You WILL have to jet by hand. I KNOW what jets you need, the needle positions and the like, but since you seem to be a bit of a jerk, I'll let you figure it out for yourself....