Manometer Question need help

[jimfj]

Hello All,

I am using a Motion Pro manometer with mercury to synch the carbs on my 82 850G.

I have 1 and 4 at the same level.
2 and 3 are at the same level as each other, but lower than 1 and 4.

Example: 1 and 4 are at 26 on the scale
2 and 3 are at 24

Is this difference okay? and if not how does one equalize or bring 2 and 3 up closer to 1 and 4?

There are restricters in the tubes
Idle while setting was 2000
There is a clear fluid? (water?) in a couple of the mercury tubes causing the mercury to pill up. Does this affect anything?

Bike idles smoother and accelerates well with the setting I have now. I noticed (maybe) a small decrease in oomph when riding. Could be because it was 90+ degrees

Any help appreciated

Jim

[Max in Montreal]

I don't know about the settings, but the warmer it is outside, the less power the bike has.

When the air is cold, there are more oxygen molecules in the air, because the molecules are smaller...so lets say you could fit more golf balls in a bucket than you can fit softballs...so when 1 bucket of air goes through your carbs, better to have more balls...more balls gives your engine more balls...

heat makes the molecules expand.

thats why on cars, many people add on a hood scoop to get fresh colder air from the outside, as opposed to warmer air under the hood...

[Nessism]

If you have the stock exhaust installed, with the crossover chamber, you want 2&3 slightly lower (as the service manual states) - I set mine about 1 cm lower. Sounds like you are pretty good shape based on what you have stated.

If you do have to adjust something, there are three adjustments. First you sync 2 and 3 together using the center adjustment, and then 1 to 2, and 4 to 3 using the outer adjusters. Motion Pro sells an adjuster tool that makes the job easier but is not manditory.

Good luck and hope this helps.

[Guest]

The "water" in the tubes is gasoline.

[Nessism]

Actually Bill, I think it's condensation...mixed with gas.

When we did Salty Dan's carbs the other day, I blew down into the vacuum lines and pushed the condensation/gas out of the lines and into the mercury reservoir - where it went to the top. Seemed to do the trick and hopefully, the foreign material will evaporate away before using the gauges next time.

[jimfj]

I was just out for a ride and the bike is smoother. It is probably 10-15 degrees cooler now and the acceleration is now where I think it should be.

My real concern was that 2 and 3 were too far under 1 and 4 but I think I'm okay. I might hook it all up one more time this weekend just to play beforeI have to give the manometer back to a fellow 850G owner.

Why did Suzuki not put the darn hookups on the top????

Jim

[Steve]

I have 1 and 4 at the same level.
2 and 3 are at the same level as each other, but lower than 1 and 4.

Example: 1 and 4 are at 26 on the scale
2 and 3 are at 24

Is this difference okay?

The Suzuki-recommended gauge uses balls, not mercury, and I don't know how they would relate to each other, but what they suggest appears to be about 1/2 ball difference. The balls appear to be no more than 1cm, so I would guess that your difference should be about 1/2cm, not 2cm.

Why did Suzuki not put the darn hookups on the top????

They did. You just have the wrong bike.
I am not sure if it's typical of all the 16-valve engines or not, but I have Mike Riddle's 1100E (in pieces) in my garage right now, and the vacuum ports are at about the 10 and 2 o'clock positions.

.

[Guest]

nessism, steve ?

If you have the stock exhaust installed, with the crossover chamber, you want 2&3 slightly lower (as the service manual states)

nessism, i remember you saying this before...
what manual is that?

my haynes (ref to cv carbs) says the reason is (and i quote)
"to compensate for the different lengths of the inlet tracts between the inner and outer carbs and the air filter element"
this has been bugging me as i dont understand it
just hoping to clarify