charging continued

[Matchless]

Thanks for the pic. I also am not sure if I hooked up the solenoid correctly. I was wondering if anyone had a pic of an 82' 850GS solenoid and where the wires that have circle connectors are with other wires. The wiring diagrams that I have looked at are a bit confusing as I have the 3 wires that they mention I think in the right places, then I have the black/white wire with the green wire from the RR to a bolt that is below the solenoid. I also ran a seperate 16 guage circle connector from the solenoid to the negative terminal of the battery. Would it better to splice and jump a longer wire to the negative terminal or leave it as a 2nd wire? The black/white, RR and now that new wire to the negative terminal all stem off that bolt under the solenoid. Just wondering if that is correct.

Basically,
The bolt under the solenoid is in fact your chassis earth/ground connection. Your wire from there to the negative terminal is correct, but should preferably be a heavier guage than the normal wires. The main chassis ground runs with a heavy wire from the negative terminal on the battery to the back of the engine. It is a good idea to make sure that both these earth wires have clean terminals on both sides.
The negative or earth wire from the R/R, OEM black/white should be connected with a connector under the same screw. It will not matter if you have 2 or 3 connectors under the same screw. In actual fact I have used the bolt that holds the ignitor below the solenoid for this and the two bolts that hold the solenoid for the black/white wires going into the loom. If they are all properly cleaned and terminated any connection to that part of the frame should be a "good" earth.
If you have a green wire from th R/R you most likely have a Honda unit installed see here http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=128558
Just to recap, after this what is not working at this moment?

[Johnny K]

Thanks for the explanation. Well I bought recently a electrosport stator, duneage RR and a battery. I have cleaned all connections and battery still does not charge. At idle is around 12.4V. And when revved up to 4000rpm it is around 12.8V. The stator and RR wires get hot. I really havent been able to test the stator because of the issue of the wires and now the fuse and connector in the headlight housing. And just recently I opened my fuse box and the "head" fuse melted but no pop or break in the middle of the fuse. Checked my headlight housing and there is a 6 pin connector that is kinda melted and I can see some copper showing out of some of the wires coming from that. I have to get another 6 pin connector and a new fuse box.

[Matchless]

Johnny K,
OK, the first test should really be on the three yellow wires from the stator. A new stator can be faulty or a wire can get pinched when installing or the original fault could damage the new stator. I am just giving the following in case you have not done this yet.
A static resistance test between any two yellow wires about 2-4 ohms for all three configurations. Then test between the yelooe wires and the frame to make sure that there is no shorting to earth. this is actually an earth leakage test done with a special meter, but test with a normal multitester using the high resistance scale.
Then a test of the AC output between any two of the 3 yellows with the motor running and the 3 yellows disconnected. You should get about 40-70 Volts AC in all three configurations.
If you installed the Duaneage R/R it would be a Honda type and the green wire is the earth/ground and the black wire is the sensing one. The black need to be connected to the ignition on hot wire, which usually is the wire. This wire must have 12 volt Positive on it and represents the battery voltage to the R/R which then puts out a voltage and thus current accordingly to the battery. On bikes with bad wiring ther can be voltage misssing on that feed or a voltage drop via the fuses and ignition switch and maybe bad connectors. With the bike not running, but ignition switch on, test this voltage by using the negative battery terminal and the spot where you connected the black wire. Note the voltage and then just move the positive test probe to the positive terminal on the battery and compare the readings. there should be a slight difference, but not more than about 1/2 volt.
Just have a look it this as a guide an maybe I can help you a bit more.

[Johnny K]

Ok Matchless, tomorrow morning I will follow and test what you suggest. But going back to the "head" fuse and how it melted. Wouldn't I want to fix that and try to find a 6 pin connector to replace mine that is slightly melted and some copper of the wires exposed. Nothing else in the headlight harness seems to be melted or anything and took each connector apart and spray cleaned, greased and then put together. All is fine except that one connector. Just thinking that I should fix that before I start testing again? But I could be wrong.

[Johnny K]

Just another question. My green wire off the RR is going to the bolt underneath the solenoid. And from that same bolt is a new 16 guage wire going from there to the negative battery terminal bolt. Should I splice the green wire and jump that with a 16 guage wire directly to the negative battery terminal bolt? Or just stay with the 2 wire from the solenoid to the negative terminal?

[Matchless]

Ok Matchless, tomorrow morning I will follow and test what you suggest. But going back to the "head" fuse and how it melted. Wouldn't I want to fix that and try to find a 6 pin connector to replace mine that is slightly melted and some copper of the wires exposed. Nothing else in the headlight harness seems to be melted or anything and took each connector apart and spray cleaned, greased and then put together. All is fine except that one connector. Just thinking that I should fix that before I start testing again? But I could be wrong.

Repairing or replacing the connector is very important so I assumed that was a given. It may even be carrying the battery positive that is switched via the ignition switch - mostly an orange wire and runs back to the fuse box. On my bike the top fuse is 10A and orange/red going to the light switch, the second one is 10A and orange/green and supplies the brake lights, ignitor and oil pressure light with power. The 3rd one is 10A and orange/white and provides the coils with power. All three of these are only powered when the inition is switched on.
The fourth fuse is 15A and is your "main fuse" this takes power directly to the ignition switch and when switched on and brings that back to the first 3 fuses on the orange wire. The last fuse is a spare for an accessory if needed and always hot, also 10A.

[Matchless]

Just another question. My green wire off the RR is going to the bolt underneath the solenoid. And from that same bolt is a new 16 guage wire going from there to the negative battery terminal bolt. Should I splice the green wire and jump that with a 16 guage wire directly to the negative battery terminal bolt? Or just stay with the 2 wire from the solenoid to the negative terminal?

No, not necessary if the two terminals are clean and making good contact with the bolt tight. This is seen as a direct wire to the negative terminal.

The reason many people were stating that the R/R negative wire should go directly to the battery was that some people grounded it to the nearest bolt. If that bolt area received its negative from the battery via other connections somewhere away and those connections were bad, maybe corroded, loose and oxidised connectors there may have been some resistance resulting in a voltage drop, so a direct connection was advised as preferable and yours should comply.

Johnny, the best way to ensure a connector is making a nice clean contact is to ensure that the brass is not caked with oxidation and clean. It must make firm contact and the wire end that is crimped should also be clean from any green stuff. Carb cleaner, contact cleaner and dielectric grease, in that order or even light sanding first.

Good luck and let me know how you are getiing along.

[Johnny K]

Matchless, I havent been able to tackle the electrical on my bike yet because I've been busy with some other stuff. So I have to order a new fuse box and a new 6 pin connector? If that is true, where is a good place to order them from. I went to Auto Zone and they didn't have any. I doubt they would, but had to check anyways.

[Matchless]

Johnny,
I am not sure where you can get it in your country, but the fuse box will be different and you will have to adapt your wiring to it. I used this type which was available from a motor spares shop. http://cgi.ebay.com/6-way-superior-q...dZp1638Q2em122
There were some suppliers mentioned on a thread somewhere on this forum.
This is an improvement as you will be upgrading to the blade type fuses at the same time. I would suggest any place that supplies auto electrical components, such as connectors, wire relays etc.

[Johnny K]

Thanks for the site. I will have to check it out when I get a chance. But I will keep you informed whenever I get to order and then work on my bike.