Best Stripped Oil Pan Screw Solution, maybe?

[jonp84]

I found out my PO had *almost* completely stripped the oil pan screw, but had wedged it back in the hold well enough to stop oil from coming out. I read some of the threads on repairing stripped oil pan threads, and looked around for a less-invasive option than removing my oilpan.

I found an amazing product made by Fram. It is a always-installed oil drain plug with a hose drain. It keeps you from making a mess when you change the oil... and most attractively is installed without the intent of removing it.

The product page is here: http://www.jegs.com/p/Fram+%26+Autol...10002/-1/11597

My idea is to put the bike on the kickstand instead of the centerstand so oil drains to the side of the oilpan. Then I'll take a rag soaked with solvant and clean the stripped oil pan threads and contact surface until I don't get any oil on the rag (I know this may take a while, but I'll do it). Then I'll clean the male threaded plug I will put in the hole. Then use JB Weld (it has a max working temp of 500 degrees) to perminately insert this plug in the oilpan, after checking to see if it needs to be slotted to match the slots in the threaded region of the oil pan.

Then I will put oil back in my bike and be back on the road!

Does anybody have feedback about this procedure, or the Fram product? Thanks!

[jonp84]

Another question is what thread size to order for this project. Stock threads are 14X1.25, and here are the options for the Fram product.

12X20
14X1.5
12X1.25
12X1.75
18X1.5

I think I should get the 14X1.5, since the pan threads are pretty much stripped anyway. This would also hold the plug in place while the JB Weld sets up. Any ideas?

[Nessism]

From what I hear, you can go to Napa and get an oversize drain plug that you just screw in. Threads are supposed to be sell taping. I'd go that route or just pull the pan and fix the threads properly.

[Suzuki mad]

If the thread on the nut is stripped and you want to go this way you would still have to drill and tap the thread out to the 14 x 1.5 size.

It would be far easier removing the plug with the bike on the centre stand, draining all the oil and removing the 12 or so bolts from the oil pan and removing it completely. Then you can have it drilled and tapped to the correct size or helicoiled or 'timecerted' with the correct size plug.

A new oil pan gasket and the job is done either way.

Doing it the cheaper way may not be the best long term solution.

Suzuki mad

[jonp84]

For some reason I was afraid it would be a big hassle to remove the oil pan (the PO has a really bad reputation with me for overtightening things), but I just went out and checked all the pipe mounting screws, and they all came loose. I think I'll do the process for installing the sure drain change system, but with the oil pan removed.

[jonp84]

Another random question: The hole size is the same (14mm), so if I re-tap it there won't be much thread left since the two thread sizes are so close (1.5mm and 1.25mm). Should I thread it then use a ton of high temp threadlock, or should I still JB Weld the new oil drain system in place?

[Nessism]

Another random question: The hole size is the same (14mm), so if I re-tap it there won't be much thread left since the two thread sizes are so close (1.5mm and 1.25mm). Should I thread it then use a ton of high temp threadlock, or should I still JB Weld the new oil drain system in place?

You need an oversized screw of some type. Changing the thread pitch is not going to get it, nor is JB Weld.

[tone]

I'd whip the pan off & stick a wurth insert or helicoil in it then never worry about it again

Just a thought if sticking some sort of self tapping oversized drain bolt in it wheres all the swarf going to go ? crank regrind anyone

[76FJ55]

If it is stripped then you will not be able to re tap it because material is missing. that will be the same in either case 14X1.5 and 14X1.25 the outer diameter is the same, and you are already at a deficit going from fine to course thread because the root diameter for fine is larger than for course. If you are pulling the pan you could probably get it welded and retapped back to original for less than what you will spend to rig it.

[Billy Ricks]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/archive/index.php/t-71861.html

[Zooks]

I like the ones that have a stainless plate that is bolted to the pan and the plug sits into that. It's much harder material than the stock aluminium pan and harder to strip in the future.

[Greg O.]

I like the ones that have a stainless plate that is bolted to the pan and the plug sits into that. It's much harder material than the stock aluminium pan and harder to strip in the future.

Where do you find these?

Greg

[Zooks]

Someone on here had one in their bike. You might find it if you search. They are sold for race cars. A lot of muscle car guys use them. The beauty of them is they are 'universal' so they can be fitted to custom made sumps / pans - such as in race engines.

[peterpressure]

The old thread which covered this: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/archive/index.php/t-71861.html

does anyone have an answer for the last post? I ask because I have a 78 GS750 with a pretty stripped Drain Plug. I assume it is M14 - 1.25

I got excited about this post and went down to Napa to get my over size plug. Turns out they had plenty of oversize M14-1.5 plugs, but my 78 GS750 is a M14-1.25 plug. Given the difference in thread pitch, I balked at the idea and decided to check back here. Any suggestions?

thanks-
Jon

[Muser3]

Strpped Oil Plug

I had the same thoughts but trusted the guys who had tried it and went ahead and used the oversize with 1.5. It has held really well for three oil changes no leaks, drips or whatever. It feels normal when I change the oil. (doesn't try to cross-thread.) After I first put the plug in, I put in a couple of quarts of dexron that had warmed in the sun and drained them right back out to remove any swarth. Worked for me.
Lee