Is top rear shock stud removable?

[Matchless]

Hi,
Does anyone know if the rear shock top mounting stud on a GS1000G is removable. My thread is slightly messed up.

[Jethro]

Unfortunately no, they are welded in. Your best bet it to have it replaced by a machine shop.

[Matchless]

Unfortunately no, they are welded in. Your best bet it to have it replaced by a machine shop.

Oh-no, I thought as much, but was hoping they were threaded.
Thanks

[don_gibb6512]

You might want to try using a DIE to clean up the threads. That might be all you need to do.

[Matchless]

You might want to try using a DIE to clean up the threads. That might be all you need to do.

I did that to all of them and three are OK. The third one will take, but may strip if the bolt is properly tightened.
Does anyone know if cutting it off flush with the insert welded to the frame, drilling and tapping for a new stud is a good idea? The threads seem quite soft, not sure if the stud is a high tensile or not, but I think not.

[rustybronco]

I did that to all of them and three are OK. The third one will take, but may strip if the bolt is properly tightened.
Does anyone know if cutting it off flush with the insert welded to the frame, drilling and tapping for a new stud is a good idea? The threads seem quite soft, not sure if the stud is a high tensile or not, but I think not.

If there is enough material left to support a stud after you drill and tap it, then install the stud with stud and bearing mount locktite (green), that would be acceptable IMHO.

***didn't read it correctly***
cut the damaged thread portion off and leave the stud, do the above for just the threaded portion.

[n1elkyfan]

The stud is actually just soft metal and the threads will twist off if your not carfull. Don't ask me how I know.

[Jethro]

Just remember, the top shock mount requires very little torque on the nut. I rode for 40k miles with a stripped shock mount held on with nut much more than masking tape to make the threads bite more....

[PAULYBOY]

Just remember, the top shock mount requires very little torque on the nut. I rode for 40k miles with a stripped shock mount held on with nut much more than masking tape to make the threads bite more....

To quote a neighbor to the north "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."

[howling60]

i know this is an old thread.. BUT.. for my first post... watch me pull a rabbit out of my hat!.. i mean, um... :P

So, just picked up a pair of '80 gs450 bikes here for a winter project (first bikes for me too... )... one viable,

just went to remove the rear luggage rack, and snapped the left-rear upper shock-mount stud off... (too much rust + over-torqued nut)... What i'm reading here, is that it *should* be fine to cut the remainder off flush with the frame, and tap it out... thread a new stud into there? i'm contemplating a bolt from the backside, but if you guys say a stud will be fine, i'll trust you

I do have a fair bit of mechanical ability... just new to bikes.

Thanks a bunch!

[Tarbash 27]

I had a stripped one. Cut it off at the threads. I took a bolt with the same size and pitch, cut a section of threads off long enough and welded it on to the shock mount. I then took a file to the weld to cleaned it up and it works fine.

[howling60]

I had a stripped one. Cut it off at the threads. I took a bolt with the same size and pitch, cut a section of threads off long enough and welded it on to the shock mount. I then took a file to the weld to cleaned it up and it works fine.

hmm. that's good to hear, sounds like the agreement in all the other older threads as well, some saying weld a stud on, some saying drill through, then weld in multiple places, etc... all saying weld though.
now, to go snag the welder back from my folks.. again

[duaneage]

They only call for about 15 lbs of torque on the bolts, but people like to apply 75 it seems. I would cut it off, grind it flush, and replace with grade 3 hardware and then touch the paint back up with some gloss black. Most would not know it was repaired.

[howling60]

. I would cut it off, grind it flush, and replace with grade 3 hardware

grade 3??? why such a low-rated? i know that bolts/etc are designed to be placed in strain, not shear, but still i would think a grd8 would be more appropriate? would love to hear your thoughts as to why only a grd3

[duaneage]

Go for grade 8 if you like, you're not dealing with that much weight on a bolt of substantial diameter. If it was m5 or m6 and dealt with lots of energy ( like the cam cover bolts) grade 8 is appropriate.

The large diameter of the bolt makes a difference.