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another coil relay gone bad prematurely
				
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 Man, all the wiring done here looks so good. Mine looks like crap with a zip tie holding it to the bolt hole where the airbox used to be bolted. New wires for the stator and R/R and now the relay. Looks like some hack got a hold of my bike. It all works great though 1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust. 1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
 1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
 
  
 
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	 GQROD GQROD
 Another thing to consider with the cheap relays especially from Bosch is that they are sensitive to humidity!, in my experience with Porsches these relays would go bad all the time because the humid air inside the car would condense at night, since the ventilation system on these cars was never good and this moisture created shorts which fried the plastic parts inside them.
 
 Since these relays are not water proof they are definetly not going to last too long a motorcycle unless shielded from the elements somehow.
 
 Hope this helps.
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	 82Shafty 82Shafty
 You and me both brother; always leave yourself a way out!Originally posted by seuadr View Postthat's why i didn't cut any wires to install mine. if i have any failure of the relay and i don't have a replacement, i can simply revert the wiring to stock 
 
 Worst case I have to lift the tank back a bit and plug in the stock wires and away I go. I'm a big believer in a fail-safe engineering.
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	 82Shafty 82Shafty
 I used one of the screws from the fuse box mounts to mount mine.Originally posted by p_s View PostThe three of mine that failed were by the battery box. I tore apart all 3 and on all 3 had the tiny wire connecting the coil the terminal had broken. Vibration killed them. So I spent $100 on a new ignition switch and don't worry about it anymore. And BTW for most models (but not mine) there are cheaper aftermarket ignition switches. I think ~ $30. Might be worth a shot.
 
 Mine is a cheapo 40amp Pilot brand from the Zone.
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	 bakalorz bakalorz
 Originally posted by Big N daft View PostIt's been a long time since I meddled with electronics at component level but I was pretty sure a thyristor was effectively a switched diode and would operate on DC. I'm also pretty sure you can get them to work at lower voltages as well
 
 But thinking about it you wouldn't really need a SSR you could quite easily knock up a MOSFET (or whatever modern equivalent you can think of) as a simple trigger device with a couple of resistors and you'd have a quite robust solution that would be vibration proof to a greater extent than a relay
 The thyristor wouldn't ever turn off.
 
 What you would want is a mosfet (or bjt if you are willing to live with a 0.2 volt loss), but since they invert, you would want to use 2 ... 1 as a driver, and then a 2nd one to do the switching.
 
 when you are done, you have essentially built a SSR ...  
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	 Planecrazy Planecrazy
 That's the reason I have advocated using silicone sealant to prevent moisture from getting into the relays. My personal choice would be high temp "gasket maker" because it'll seal just like regular silicone, but will resist any heat buildup that could occur near the contacts.Originally posted by GQROD View PostAnother thing to consider with the cheap relays especially from Bosch is that they are sensitive to humidity!, in my experience with Porsches these relays would go bad all the time because the humid air inside the car would condense at night, since the ventilation system on these cars was never good and this moisture created shorts which fried the plastic parts inside them.
 
 Since these relays are not water proof they are definetly not going to last too long a motorcycle unless shielded from the elements somehow.
 
 Hope this helps.
 
 If one wanted to take it a step further they could use sealant on the contacts themselves (after connecting them, of course) but that would make changing them out a royal pita - not worth it in my opinion.
 
 Regards,
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	Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
 Past Site Supporter
 Super Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 14195
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
 
 Being right next to the battery I very much doubt mine would ever get damp enough to create a problem... 1980 GS1000G - Sold 1980 GS1000G - Sold
 1978 GS1000E - Finished!
 1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
 1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
 2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
 1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
 2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
 
 www.parasiticsanalytics.com
 
 TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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	 GQROD GQROD
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	 BlackStar BlackStar
 My experience in failure analysis of aerospace relays is that vibration is the number 1 killer of mechanical relays. Failure mechanism is usually vibration induced mechanical miss-alignment of the armature, contact wear, fod in the contacts, and failure of the coil wires due to improper strain relief during manufacture.Originally posted by p_s View PostThe three of mine that failed were by the battery box. I tore apart all 3 and on all 3 the tiny wire connecting the coil to the terminal had broken. Vibration killed them. So I spent $100 on a new ignition switch and don't worry about it anymore. And BTW for most models (but not mine) there are cheaper aftermarket ignition switches. I think ~ $30. Might be worth a shot.
 BTW mine is socketed and I carry a spare. I have not hard mounted mine either. Just a tie wrap through the mounting hole.
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	 don_gibb6512 don_gibb6512
 Turned out not to be the relay after all. My first test was to swap it out with a good one and the bike started. I swapped it again with what I thought was the bad relay and the bike wouldn't start, so my conclusion was the relay was bad. It was coincidence. Had I tested one more time, the bike wouldn't have started. I disassembled the relay and have attached a couple of pictures. It tested fine and by the looks of it, is very well made. I now doubt that unless these are mounted directly on the engine, they are not going to be effected by heat and it would take a lot of vibration to damage these. The case was very tight and the odds of water getting in is slim to none. IMHO, the relays that are malfunctioning prematurely are most likely manufacturing defects in the relay itself. My problem was (I hope) just corroded contacts on the starter.
 
 
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	 don_gibb6512 don_gibb6512
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	Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
 Past Site Supporter
 Super Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 14195
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
 
 Probably a top secret security switch... doh 1980 GS1000G - Sold 1980 GS1000G - Sold
 1978 GS1000E - Finished!
 1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
 1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
 2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
 1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
 2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
 
 www.parasiticsanalytics.com
 
 TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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 Turn signal relay.Originally posted by Texatl View PostSorry for the slight hijack :-)
 Curious???? Whats the switch for behind the pod filter next to the frame rail.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
 1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
 
  
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