Oil Pressure Drop

[rustybronco]

you are having a problem with both the light flickering and low oil pressure when warm. the light flickering doesn't bother me, it's the low pressure on the gauge that in my opinion is what should be looked into.
if the oil is bypassing the oil cooler adapter the switch will not open fully and the light will flicker, but oil still will get to the oil gallery that the gauge is attached to.
put the original adapter back on and check the oil pressure when warm.

[TheCafeKid]

2-3 lbs is normal at idle for the low pressure GS motors when the oil is warm. My 1100G and my 750B both run about 3-6lbs while moving when warm, unless i really get up in the RPMs, then i *MIGHT* see 8-9 lbs. When the oil is cold tho, it will register about 12lbs or thereabouts.

[ryonker]

you are having a problem with both the light flickering and low oil pressure when warm. the light flickering doesn't bother me, it's the low pressure on the gauge that in my opinion is what should be looked into.
if the oil is bypassing the oil cooler adapter the switch will not open fully and the light will flicker, but oil still will get to the oil gallery that the gauge is attached to.
put the original adapter back on and check the oil pressure when warm.

I installed my oil pressure gauge the same time as the cooler .

However, if oil pressure was an issue, wouldn't my oil light have come on at sometime?

[rustybronco]

I installed my oil pressure gauge the same time as the cooler .

However, if oil pressure was an issue, wouldn't my oil light have come on at sometime?

It was my guess that you did both at the same time and I don't think that oil pressure is the issue or the light would have come on before you converted to the oil cooler.
more the reason I believe is a restriction to oil flow through the cooler, in combination with the adapter having switch fitting issues or supply port fitting issues.
(don't rule out a bad adapter, the gs850 I just bought had a switch problem when they installed a cooler and I have the note to prove it)
to me it's the only thing that makes sense.
you could bypass the cooler and check the oil pressure on the gauge when hot. (don't worry about the idiot light switch yet)
putting it back to stock a good way to eliminate the cooler/adapter from the equation so you will know what your oil pressure truly is.

***edit*** can you blow through the cooler easily? (I'm looking for a check valve and/or a restriction in it)

[Nessism]

I don't think the problem is low oil pressure or a restriction, I think you are loosing oil flow through bleed-off from the 1/32" gap and maybe the oil pressure switch plunger is contacting the inside diameter of that switch adapter thus completing the ground path which throws the light.

Get that gap sorted out (try a gasket maybe) and check to see if the plunger is able to hit the inside of the bore. Replace the switch if it can and I bet the oil light stays off.

Good luck.

[rustybronco]

Then at idle my oil pressure dropped down to about .5 psi, but would go up when I accelerated...
Rick

his oil pressure gauge showed .5 psi.

where are you tapping the oil pressure gauge at?

I still haven't gotten a clear answer if the gauge is on the oil gallery or not.

the dis-advantage of not seeing it...

[Nessism]

his oil pressure gauge showed .5 psi.


I still haven't gotten a clear answer if the gauge is on the oil gallery or not.

the dis-advantage of not seeing it...

Standard spot to install the gauge is on the right side of the cylinder.

.5 psi at idle, as indicated on the gauge, is similar to my bike. $20 VDO gauge leaves a lot to be desired. My gauge doesn't even go back to zero after only a few months of use.

[rustybronco]

.5 psi at idle, as indicated on the gauge, is similar to my bike. $20 VDO gauge leaves a lot to be desired.

There's the answer, didn't know they ran that low when hot.

[posplayr]

Just catching up with this thread

I think Nessism has it nailed. If the neck of the adapter leaks, then the switch could show low pressure when there is no drop in pressure in the gallery(at the oil pressure gauge).

I think the only way to capture a gasket would be to use an o-ring in a groove on the adapter neck.

I'm glad I dont have this problem.

It really is a false problem caused by trying to retain the pressure switch. There really is no loss in pressure that would be confirmed by simply reverting back to stock plate and checking the pressure gauge for similar operation.

Posplayr

[ryonker]

Thanks everyone!!!!!

Thanks everybody for all the helpful responses!!!!

Rusty Bronco, here is a thread with pictures of oil pressure gauges mounted like mine.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=125075

Wow, I just really appreciate the time everyone has taken to think about this with me and offer help...you guys are awesome !

Nessism, I was off when I said 1/32 (just a guess--to measure is to know, so I will try a feeler gauge when if I take it apart again ). The gap is small than that.

So, if the bike is really hot (while riding) and when I stop at a light and the pressure is between .5 and 1 psi at idle, I shouldn't worry about that? Nessism, you said yours goes that low sometimes as well?

Thanks everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rick

[Nessism]

So, if the bike is really hot (while riding) and when I stop at a light and the pressure is between .5 and 1 psi at idle, I shouldn't worry about that? Nessism, you said yours goes that low sometimes as well?

Thanks everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rick

No worry with that kind of oil pressure, perfectly normal.

[ryonker]

Update

I connected with Terry, and he told me to change out the O ring that sits on the Hex ended sensor module. Come to think of it, mine was pretty smashed (no longer a nice rounded O ring, it was a flat ring ) so I had to screw it in pretty tight to seat it and keep it from leaking oil.

So I put a beefier O ring on and screwed in the sensor module (thus reducing the oil pressure need to push it open...ie. shortening the distance by moving the sensor out a little). Then, voila.., no more oil light turning on or flickering.

I let the engine warm quite a while. Initially, with choke on, pressure surged up to 12 psi. dropping back to 4 then 3psi with choke of. It ran 3 psi quite a while then dropped back to about 2psi but not much less!

So I think it is all working quite like it should !

Thanks everyone for all the great help!

Thanks Terry for the final solution!!!!!!

Rick

[Guest]

Your oil pressure will be very low at idle once the oil is hot. Both my bikes run at about 1 psi or a little less when hot, and around 4 psi while cruising. That is normal.

Nessism,

I have played around with dozens of oil pressure gauges. The VDO is the most accurate one I have tried. If your gauge does not go back to zero, it is probably defective or you raced the motor too high while the oil was cold, thus causing it to "peg" and screw up the internals. I have had a few VDO gauges that registered above zero right out of the box.

If you bought the gauge from me, send it back and I'll do a warranty exhange.

[rustybronco]

I let the engine warm quite a while. Initially, with choke on, pressure surged up to 12 psi. dropping back to 4 then 3psi with choke of. It ran 3 psi quite a while then dropped back to about 2psi but not much less!

So I think it is all working quite like it should !

Rick

factory spec 1.42psi @3,000 rpm @ 60c oil temp...

[Guest]

Also, with the cooler and lines on my GS1000, I had to add about 1/2 quart extra to the engine. When the bike is on the center stand, the oil shows just above the top of the site glass.