Carb dipping vs disassembly

[Odysseas]

I have an '82 GS1100GL that I keep in Temecula CA in my in-laws garage. I live in FL. I used to go there and ride it 4 or 5 times a year and never had a problem for several years but that changed. It sat for 1 year and wouldn't start. Not having much time there on my next trip, I took the carbs off, brought them home to FL and had them cleaned at a little shop here and took them back on my next trip and it ran perfect for my several days there.

Unfortunately it went through another unexpected extended down time and wouldn't start again on my last trip out there. I could not find a shop in the area that would clean the carbs if I brought them in. (One guy said he would only do it if I brought the whole bike in and it would cost $500) I have three questions.

A. Is there an easier cleaning fix for this situation than complete carb disassembly? Like dipping them whole? I don't have the time or facilities to do major surgery on them myself while vacationing a few days.

B. Anyone know a shop in that SoCal area that I could take the carbs to?

C. Why did I sell my '73 BMW R75/5 (which was parked in the same garage as the GS and never let me down no matter how long it sat) to a Norwegian named Otto who shipped it back to Norway and sends me pictures of his adventures in Norway on it? It makes me weepy when I see them now.

I kept the '82 Suzuki because i wanted to keep the "modern" bike. I really like it but this carb situation is not working for a vacation bike. Any suggestions? Thanks.

[catbed]

there are many people on these forums in SoCal that may want to help you. just wait for them to respond.

[Nessism]

There are lots of GS folks around So Calif that will help you including me. Pull the carbs and drive over. Based on what you are saying the carbs most likely don't need a major overhaul, just a good spray out after removing the pilots.

For storage you need some fuel stabilizer - available in most auto parts stores. This stuff will keep the gas from fouling the carbs.

[Steve]

I agree with Nessism, probably just a good cleaning, not a tear-down necessary.

I also agree with the stabilizer concept. I have used Sta-Bil wifh good results for years. If I see a long storage term coming up, like putting the snow blower away in March, I will double the dose, then run the engine long enough to make sure the stabilized mixture gets to all the ports and jets. You can also use Seafoam as a stabilizer. It has the added benefit of being a very good cleaner if mixed with the gas then burned off in a day-long ride.

Another tip is to use a battery charger/maintainer. Battery Tender is the ultimate brand, and has become much like Kleenex, in that any device that does the job will be called a battery tender. A cheaper, but just as effective alternative is the Schumacher charger/maintainer from Wal-Mart. It's less than $20 and works very well. I have three of them and might have to get a couple more for the extra toys that are accumulating.

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[SqDancerLynn1]

WHat I would try is to put a good dose of seafoam & some fresh gas in the tank. drain the float bowls. Turn petcock to prime. & hook up some jumper cables to a car-engine off.. Battery may be getting weak

[Flaggo60]

.... A cheaper, but just as effective alternative is the Schumacher charger/maintainer from Wal-Mart. It's less than $20 and works very well. I have three of them and might have to get a couple more for the extra toys that are accumulating.
.

For the Canadians in the crowd that are reading this, I just bought a charger/maintainer from Canadian Tire, and it appears to be a Shumacher, sold under the Motomaster brand name.

[Odysseas]

Thanks for your replies about using Sta-Bil and a battery tender. However, I do use Sta-Bil every time I leave it and run it so that I make sure the mix makes it to the carbs. Ideally with a bike I would turn off the petcocks and run it til it burns all the fuel in the bowls, but the GS has the vacuum operated petcock that has NO shutoff. What's up with that? ( in my Seinfeld voice) Twelve years ago when I first bought it I "closed" the petcock when I left it - like every bike I had owned since I was 12. I did not know that what I always knew as the the "closed" position was actually "freeflow" and returned 3 months later to a crankcase full of gas. Lesson: Always read the manual. By the way, the old BMW had spring wire saddle clips that held the bowls on. It took less than 5 seconds to empty the bowls dry and away I go. That was a good idea!

As for the battery tender, I have always kept one on it and have never had a dead battery. It cranks and sparks just fine. It will fire up with a wiff of starting fluid but it's getting no fuel. I removed the air box and bowls the last time I was there and tried spraying everything I could with carb cleaner with the carbs still on the bike. No dice. It will fire up with spray fluid but thats it. Somethings plugged in the carbs and I just didn't know how deep I needed to go.

Nessism- Thanks for the invite to drive over. I usually do my own mechanical work, but when it comes to taking carbs apart I have this fear spot in my brain. Fear of messing up when I'm not certain of what I'm messing with. I'll try doing a remove carbs; remove pilots then spray. I'll be there Nov. 12-15. If all fails maybe I'll call. It's a long ride to Torrence, though. Is there something I should run through the tubes, like fine wire?