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rear master disassembly

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    rear master disassembly

    removed pedal shaft (circlip)and master from bike (see pic) can you remove the inside parts of the master. I can still put a screwdriver in to operate. does this brake down further??

    #2
    another if it helps

    pic 2 this is bottom where shaft goes to pedal.

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      #3
      havent done it myself yet but maybe this can help


      GS850GT

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        #4
        In the second pic, is there a small silver bowl-looking piece in there? If yes it would seem you have the same problem I encountered when bleeding the brakes on my bike. That little silver bowl has a spring on the other side of it and should pop out when the ring clip was removed. Mine was stuck and took some serious faniggling to get it out and cleaned up to reinstall.

        I should have taken some pics when rebuilding my master cylinder.

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          #5
          thanks alot appreciat it.

          not sure how to get #2 out. ideas anyone?

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            #6
            To get mine out I sprayed some wd-40 in the hole and then took a pan-head bolt that I had laying around that had a similar curvature to the push-rod. Put it down the hole and tapped it VERY lightly a couple times with a hammer and it popped right out. Just be careful, I wouldn't want you damaging your M/C on my recommendation. Good luck.

            Also, be ready, when/if it breaks free it may launch itself out of the M/C body. I know mine nearly went over my head.
            Last edited by Guest; 11-05-2008, 12:45 AM. Reason: addition

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              #7
              Originally posted by buckeyemike View Post
              not sure how to get #2 out. ideas anyone?
              Stick a piece of straigtened coathanger down thru the banjo bolt hole. Its just a plunger, and they often get stuck when the bore gets a lil cruddy.

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                #8
                I agree with sticking something through the outlet port...only I'd go with a piece of wooden dowel or similar what won't scratch the master cylinder bore if you hit the side.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                  I agree with sticking something through the outlet port...only I'd go with a piece of wooden dowel or similar what won't scratch the master cylinder bore if you hit the side.
                  Ahhh yes, very very good point Ed I didnt think about that...lol.

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                    #10
                    thanks for help, still not working

                    so I have soaked in brake fluid 24 hours. soaked in wd 40 about 30 min. still wont budge. tried to brake loose both ways with wooden dow, all that did was worked the dow into fragments. will not budge. even tried a small long allen wrench with rounded end that fit into banjo hole and pounded alot. yea can compress spring and that moves but wont budge the other end to release. guess corroded in there? so if it does not brake free tomorrow I will try pb blaster and hope that works? what do you guys think about heat? maybe I should buy used one at this point I cant imagine another having this much problem??

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                      #11
                      Haven't done a rear cylinder yet. just a thought have you tried putting compressed air to the banjo bolt hole. dont know if it would work without seeing it in person

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                        #12
                        Throw it in some Berrymans or soak it in PB Blaster.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                          Throw it in some Berrymans or soak it in PB Blaster.
                          At this point, the "Berryman's soak" suggestion sounds good - that should eat away the rubber seal & non-metallic crud. If it doesn't come apart after that, then a PB blaster soak should get down there after that...

                          Of course, you will need a M/C rebuild kit to replace the rubber bits (I assume you already bought one).

                          Good luck
                          '85 GS550L - SOLD
                          '85 GS550E - SOLD
                          '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                          '81 GS750L - SOLD
                          '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                          '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                          '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                          '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

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                            #14
                            smack it down on a piece of wood with the big end down. this makes a lot more force than the wooden dowel.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by buckeyemike View Post
                              so I have soaked in brake fluid 24 hours. soaked in wd 40 about 30 min. still wont budge. tried to brake loose both ways with wooden dow, all that did was worked the dow into fragments. will not budge. even tried a small long allen wrench with rounded end that fit into banjo hole and pounded alot. yea can compress spring and that moves but wont budge the other end to release. guess corroded in there? so if it does not brake free tomorrow I will try pb blaster and hope that works? what do you guys think about heat? maybe I should buy used one at this point I cant imagine another having this much problem??
                              Sounds like some galvanic corrosion to me. I think that piston is made of Alu, and the bore is made of steel obviously. I can tell you with a carb body i had that had some metal to metal corrosion from exposure to water over time. I have tried EVERYTHING. Boiled it, soaked it in CLR, PB Blaster, Berrymans, etc etc, it simply wouldnt budge. I would suggest hunting up another...

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