What are kind of impact?

[Larry D]

I have BS32SS carbs and the idle air adjustment screw tip is broken off in #4.

I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and got a nice assortment of picks to try and pop it out.....No Luck.

The broken tip has to be pushed up from the throat into the threaded cavity were the screw...screws in, due to the taper of the broken tip.

The picks weren't quite small enough diameter to fit through the hole in the carb throat. I suppose, I could try and grind down the diameter of the pick but, I'm afraid if I do, the pick won't be strong enough to pop out the broken tip....it's seated pretty good.

What impact will enlarging this air hole slightly have on idleing ? Keep in mind the hole will only be slightly larger and only on the throat side. Once I get enough pressure on it to pop it out, the threaded side should not be affected.

I'm thinking that I may have the others set at the normal 2-2.5 turns out, while #4 may have to be, perhaps, 1-1.5 turns out to compensate from the slightly larger air hole.

Sound reasonable ?

See page 4 for schematic of the carb.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/BS32SS_Carbs.pdf

Thanks.

[Steve]

Can you feel the tip sticking into the carb throat? I have removed several by using the flat side of a screwdriver and just pressing it back down. If the tip is not sticking through, that obviously won't work.

The number of turns is only a guideline to get the bike started. Once it is warmed up, you will need to tweak each mixture screw, listening for highest rpm. When that is acheived, you can turn the screws in and count the turns to see if they are different. Be sure to record the number of turns for future reference. You can start with #4 at 2-2.5 turns like the rest, but you are correct, it may go in a little more than the others.

Let me check my stock later today, I might have a #4 body that is useable. While I was down south for a couple of months, TheCafeKid worked on another bike in my garage. They had to get another set of carbs and re-work them, so I don't really know what all I have there right now, except that they are all 32s.

.

[Larry D]

Can you feel the tip sticking into the carb throat? I have removed several by using the flat side of a screwdriver and just pressing it back down. If the tip is not sticking through, that obviously won't work.

The number of turns is only a guideline to get the bike started. Once it is warmed up, you will need to tweak each mixture screw, listening for highest rpm. When that is acheived, you can turn the screws in and count the turns to see if they are different. Be sure to record the number of turns for future reference. You can start with #4 at 2-2.5 turns like the rest, but you are correct, it may go in a little more than the others.

Let me check my stock later today, I might have a #4 body that is useable. While I was down south for a couple of months, TheCafeKid worked on another bike in my garage. They had to get another set of carbs and re-work them, so I don't really know what all I have there right now, except that they are all 32s.

.

No, the tip is not visible.

I think the tip has been broken off in there when I got the bike. It has never idled correctly.I wasn't educated enough during the o-ring/dipping process to look.

I discovered it while doing the highest RPM method and have read that even in non-damaged carbs that they each may end up with different settings.

If you find that you have a #4 carb, shoot me a PM with the price. I may be able to "save" it. Just don't want to do any unrepairable damage by enlarging the air hole.

Thanks a bunch !!

[Steve]

Found a carb.

PM sent.

.

[Larry D]

Found a carb.

PM sent.

.

Yippeeee !!!!

Thanks !!!!!

[Guest]

Another GS saved. What a great site we have here. Good one, Steve.

[Larry D]

Another GS saved. What a great site we have here. Good one, Steve.

I hope that someday, in someway, I'm able to help somebody else the way that you've all helped me.

[rustybronco]

The broken tip has to be pushed up from the throat into the threaded cavity were the screw...screws in, due to the taper of the broken tip.

how about a metal rod with "cement" (adhesive) on the tip of it. inserted in the hole onto the broken end, let it harden and remove the rod with the broken tip by a slide hammer action?

we do something very similar to that, to remove broken spark plug tips on the 5.4l 3v engines

that may save the body for the next "customer".

[Larry D]

how about a metal rod with "cement" (adhesive) on the tip of it. inserted in the hole onto the broken end, let it harden and remove the rod with the broken tip by a slide hammer action?

we do something very similar to that, to remove broken spark plug tips on the 5.4l 3v engines

that may save the body for the next "customer".

That may work.....I was able to put some pressure on it and it seemed it was seated pretty well. Not sure if the adhesive would hold.

I will do my best not to "bugger" it up so it will be usable for the next "customer"

[Matchless]

I have been fortunate and never had this problem, but have been following many of these threads with interest.
At work we had a "repipping" kit and it had a set of pliers with a raised nipple in the inside of the one jaw and it was used to push out burned contacts on relay springs. The trick was to get the nipple straight in line with the contact pip and then squeeze.
You could try using a sewing machine needle. Grind it shorter with a flat face to the stuck piece and use it to sqeeeze out the broken tip instead of tapping it.

[Larry D]

I have been fortunate and never had this problem, but have been following many of these threads with interest.
At work we had a "repipping" kit and it had a set of pliers with a raised nipple in the inside of the one jaw and it was used to push out burned contacts on relay springs. The trick was to get the nipple straight in line with the contact pip and then squeeze.
You could try using a sewing machine needle. Grind it shorter with a flat face to the stuck piece and use it to sqeeeze out the broken tip instead of tapping it.

A sewing machine needle......uhhmmmm......that might work.

I have a small clamp that I am considering positioning against your sewing machine needle idea and slowly tightening the clamp until it pops.

I also thought of some type of pliers that, instead of squeezing, they would expand and use the same technique. Similiar to what you stated.

[midnightcafe]

Larry,
same thing happened to me. i flattened the tip of the brass exposed in the carb, then disassembled the carbs and removed the slide. took a sewing needle with a grinded tip, lined it up with the mushroomed brass screw and tapped it out.

here's the thread:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=82559

[Larry D]

Larry,
same thing happened to me. i flattened the tip of the brass exposed in the carb, then disassembled the carbs and removed the slide. took a sewing needle with a grinded tip, lined it up with the mushroomed brass screw and tapped it out.

here's the thread:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ad.php?t=82559

Yep, read that...those are VM26SS carbs, completely different.

I have BS32SS and there is no way to get a straight shot at it.

No matter, have a "new" one on order...Thanks Steve !!!!