Help w/ GS1100E(z) TO-DO List

[maro]

Bought her last month. I've had the opportunity to ride her only 3 times. Now it's winter.

I would like help in organizing a to-do list for the winter months. I'm getting caught up in all the Gixxer swap/mod threads. Since the swap requires buying even more parts, and since I have no comparison for what the new suspension will feel like, I feel like I could wait until NEXT winter for that...no?

Note:
Carbs: carbs will be taken care of, removed, inspected and cleaned, etc. Getting them dialed in will begin in the spring.

Fork Springs: PO claims they are progressive. Based on info from a recent post in the forums, I think they are. No sag when sitting and bouncing on the bike.

I've read about the 530 chain upgrade... is that something worth tackling?



what else for this paticular bike should I go after, clean, fix, take apart, upgrade (affordably)... to get this bike ready and safe and comfortable for the spring?

thanks

[Mark M]

In no particular order:

1) New Shocks
2) Check valve clearances
3) Fresh Rubber (if it is getting tired)
4) Braided S/S brake lines
5) Kawi 2 piston / CBR front rotor conversion if you want more brakes.
6) Change fork oil
7) 530 conversion if existing chainset is shot
8) Buy slotted cam sprockets and degree the cams properly
9) Pods, jet kit and 4-1 pipe if you want a snappier feel and racy intake noises
10) Change steering head bearings, swing arm bearings and wheel bearings if any of them feel dodgy
11) Re-cover the seat if the cover is trashed
12) Flush and change brake fluid

Mark

[Billy Ricks]

Check and clean all electrical connections too.

[maro]

Check and clean all electrical connections too.

check!

In no particular order:

1) New Shocks

5) Kawi 2 piston / CBR front rotor conversion if you want more brakes.

8) Buy slotted cam sprockets and degree the cams properly

10) Change steering head bearings, swing arm bearings and wheel bearings if any of them feel dodgy


Mark

1) New Shocks - Is this something I should just simply replace without having been on the bike much to really feel if they are shot, The bike has roughly 22k.

5) Kawi 2 piston / CBR front rotor conversion if you want more brakes. - the brake lines have been bled, but the front still feels mushy. I read that simply disabling the weak anit-dive will help stiffin them up. If so, should I wait for the gixxer swap to replace the brake components?

8) Buy slotted cam sprockets and degree the cams properly- This one is above me. Can you elaborate on what exactly this will do, help, ect

10) Change steering head bearings, swing arm bearings and wheel bearings if any of them feel dodgy- Is there a way to diagnose the condition of the bearings withough riding the cycle?

thanks guys

[Nessism]

My suggestion is to ride the bike before you decide the suspension is not good enough.

My list of To Do items include:

-Valve adjustment – tight valves can damage engine
-Carb rebuild w/new O-rings – O-rings are sure to be hard and brittle, replace before they start to leak
-Carb sync
-Brake system tear down and replacement of the brake lines – the lines deteriorate and develop scale on the inside, as does the entire brake system. Fluid swap is not good enough to get the sludge out.
-Lubrication of chassis components like swing arm and steering head bearings
-Fork oil change
-Engine oil and filter change – diesel engine oil is a good choice for motorcycles
-Clean air filter
-Clean electrical connections – spray cleaner like DeoxIT work well http://www.deoxit.com/
-Run dedicated ground from R/R over to battery and make special effort to clean stator wire connections

Regarding the anti-dive, I disabled the one that’s on my 750ES. I would have just left it alone but didn’t feel like messing around with all the extra brake plumbing for a system that is meaningless to me and clutters up the bike.


Hope this helps and good luck.

[twr1776]

+1 on cleaning all electrical connections. Run the additional ground wire from the R/R if you do not have one already.

Get the carb o-ring kit from Robert Barr and replace all rubber while you have the carbs apart. Check and/or replace carb boots and O-rings if you have them.

If it still has the OEM shocks replace them regardless of mileage/feel. Progressive or Hagons pretty popular choices, See signature below

What kind of tires do you have? Any history on them? When I got one of my bikes it had a tube in a tubeless tire. Plenty of opinions on tires here.

[Billy Ricks]

As for checking steering head bearings, get the bike on its centerstand and get the front wheel off the ground by some means. THen turn the bars from stop to stop a few times and see if it turns smoothly from left to right, then back and forth. It should turn smoothly with no hint of notchiness ar binding. Then grab the front wheel and try pulling it front to back and side to side. If you detect any slop at the steering head the bearings may need replacing or at least tightening below the upper triple clamp.

[maro]

As for checking steering head bearings, get the bike on its centerstand and get the front wheel off the ground by some means. THen turn the bars from stop to stop a few times and see if it turns smoothly from left to right, then back and forth. It should turn smoothly with no hint of notchiness ar binding. Then grab the front wheel and try pulling it front to back and side to side. If you detect any slop at the steering head the bearings may need replacing or at least tightening below the upper triple clamp.

No center stand due to the 4-1, but... I am buying a rear wheel stand. Once I get that, I can lift the front and try this proceedure out. Thanks!

[Mark M]

1) New Shocks - Is this something I should just simply replace without having been on the bike much to really feel if they are shot, The bike has roughly 22k.

5) Kawi 2 piston / CBR front rotor conversion if you want more brakes. - the brake lines have been bled, but the front still feels mushy. I read that simply disabling the weak anit-dive will help stiffin them up. If so, should I wait for the gixxer swap to replace the brake components?

8) Buy slotted cam sprockets and degree the cams properly- This one is above me. Can you elaborate on what exactly this will do, help, ect

10) Change steering head bearings, swing arm bearings and wheel bearings if any of them feel dodgy- Is there a way to diagnose the condition of the bearings withough riding the cycle?

thanks guys

1) If it has OEM shocks they are shot, period. If it has aftermarket shocks they may be OK. If they are rebuildable, have them done to start fresh.

5) Definitely disable the anti-dive. I did mine by installing a 2 line S/S line kit (from a 1200 Bandit) and using the spare banjo bolts to block off the Anti-dive units. You could also rebuild the calipers, the seals are likely OEM and they do get tired. Whether to swap now or wait is up to you. If you are likely to actually get the GSXR swap DONE, then wait. If you are like the rest of us and those projects take 5x as long as you think they will, then a brake upgrade now may be a good idea to use for the next several seasons while you collect parts for the swap.

8) This involves removing the cams and replacing the OEM cam sprockets with a set that has slotted holes. You then use the slotted holes to adjust the cam timing to get it exactly where you want it, instead of wherever it landed on the assembly line. This allows you to tailor the power to where you want it by moving the torque peak up or down the rpm range. It is very optional, but you said you were looking for winter projects... My 1100E gained noticeable power when I degreed my cams.

10) Already covered for the steering head bearings. For the swing arm, set the bike up with the rear wheel in the air and try to wiggle the swing arm side to side. For the wheel bearings, prop the wheel in the air and spin it to see if it turns smoothly. Try to wiggle the wheel side to side and see if there is any play at all. Any play in any of these places means the bearings are shot and need replacing. You should also pull the seals and re-grease all the above bearings if they are good, it helps keep them that way. Drilling and tapping a grease zerk into the swingarm makes it much easier to keep grease in those bearings. More winter projects...

If you don't have a center stand, you can use two jack stands under the frame rails instead. This also allows you to move the stands forward or backward to balance with the front or rear wheel in the air, depending on which end you want to work on.


Mark

[maro]

thanks for all the info so far. I will be re-reading all this tonight...to digest.

[crag antler]

Painting the motor black will guarantee at least an additional 15 hp.
Ask any '83 1100ED owner
I would seriously do the 530 conversion.
I did one on my '83, with the faster motor, and it was a breeze.
Not too difficult, not too expensive,around $250, and a major difference in the ride and I think style of the bike.

[maro]

Painting the motor black will guarantee at least an additional 15 hp.

and the guarantee that I will no longer be able to see all the oil leaking from my shoddy gasket replacement.

hmmmmm

[Florida Guy]

I thought I read it's not a good idea to paint an engine.
It keeps the heat in, and doesn't cool as well.
Do some reading before your paint.

[crag antler]

I thought I read it's not a good idea to paint an engine.
It keeps the heat in, and doesn't cool as well.
Do some reading before your paint.

Here's some good reading on that

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=133582&highlight=painting+engine

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=108328&highlight=painting+motor

[Nessism]

Suzuki paints all their engines...paints them silver...or black, but paint either way.