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Valve face recutting VS grinding/lapping

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    Valve face recutting VS grinding/lapping

    I was planning to just lap the valves on my engine, as the seats arent that bad. Then the guy at the machine shop was touting how much more power with a new recut. He was probably just trying to bring in more business. But, are recut seats that much better than a grind/lap job?

    #2
    If your seats are ok just lap them. They only need to make a seal and if they do that you can't make them any better.
    79 GS1000S
    79 GS1000S (another one)
    80 GSX750
    80 GS550
    80 CB650 cafe racer
    75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
    75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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      #3
      If you lap them make sure you clean the lapping compound out really good or it will pit the valve face.

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        #4
        If you want more POWER then you could have them BACK cut. I do this to stock valves all the time. Chances are, for what YOU are doing, lapping will be fine. Ray.

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          #5
          Ya, I am doing a back cut for sure.

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            #6
            A high performance seat flows more than a stock type. It will make more power. Apparently this is what the guy is talking about.
            Speed Merchant
            http://www.gszone.biz

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              #7
              I am with you Ray. On my flow bench, my GS heads LOVE the Back cut. Back cutting the valves @ 37 degrees will pick up the flow just about 20% under .300 lift. Hemi chambers like 35 to 37 degrees . The GS's respond better to 37 degrees. Wedge chamber heads (V8), (chevy, Mopar, ect) like 30 degrees. Anything other than that will HURT flow. This simple mod uncovers more seat area at lower lifts and starts the 'column' of air in the intake port sooner in the lift cycle. This is TORQUE big time. Simple and cheap too. $ 20. bucks at most shops. Hope this helps.

              Terry
              1980 Suzuki GS550E, 1981 Suzuki GS 1100EX all stock, 1983 Suzuki GS 1100EX modified, 1985 GS1150E, 1998 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1971 Kawasaki Mach lll 500 H1, 1973 Kawasaki Mach lV 750 H2.

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                #8
                Originally posted by headsbikesmopars View Post
                Simple and cheap too. $ 20. bucks at most shops. Hope this helps.

                Terry
                Hey Terry, good info. Thanks. Can't say I agree that $20 is "cheap" if we are talking about each valve (which I assume we are).
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                  #9
                  HMMMM, I was just planning on putting my valves in a drill press and running a file on them at the appropriate angle

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
                    HMMMM, I was just planning on putting my valves in a drill press and running a file on them at the appropriate angle

                    File... Angle grinder son, it's what all the latest tuners use LOL.

                    Oh ya, don't forget the protractor to help set the angle .


                    On a more serious note, for anyone who cuts the face and seat, be sure to double check installed height.

                    I don't have a FSM, does Suzi recommend a 1 degree interference angle?

                    Make sure you check all guides/stems before you do anything to the valves/seats.

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                      #11
                      Nessism, no that is per set. Not expensive at all and will pick up flow more than anything you could do for the money. If you were to do anything for your heads it would be back cutting of the valves first, and then put a nice gentle radius on the short side radius, of the port floor where the factory cutter leaves that sharp edge. Air does NOT like corners anywhere in the port. Smooth and radius this area and clean up any casting flaws with a cartridge roll and you will have a nice piece. Flow will be in the 90's and that is enough to make in the 160 hp range. You don't need cutters for this, use a strip of abrasive emery cloth 1" wide torn into strips of 1/4" and 24" long. I use 80 grit to remove this 'edge' and follow that with 180 grit. Place head on work bench with chambers up with valves removed, fish the strips of emery cloth thru the port and with a back and forth motion pulling up, you can quickly remove and round (radius) this edge. All you need to do is take this edge off and you are done. It won't take long and you don't need to remove anymore than this. You will be amazed at the results. Anyone can pm me if they want anymore detail on this cheap and simple mod. You can do it. Good luck.

                      Terry
                      1980 Suzuki GS550E, 1981 Suzuki GS 1100EX all stock, 1983 Suzuki GS 1100EX modified, 1985 GS1150E, 1998 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1971 Kawasaki Mach lll 500 H1, 1973 Kawasaki Mach lV 750 H2.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                        If you want more POWER then you could have them BACK cut. I do this to stock valves all the time. Chances are, for what YOU are doing, lapping will be fine. Ray.
                        What is "back cutting"?

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                          #13
                          To wide or to narrow a valve seat will shorten seat life and air flow.also lapping may cause a step in the valve seat on the valve. Laping is fine for inspecting seat contact.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Flaggo60 View Post
                            What is "back cutting"?
                            Google "valve back cutting"




                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Isn't that also referred to as a 3-angle valve job? In other words, two separate angles are ground on the valve face and then a third, different angle is ground in to the valve seat.

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