stuck air screw

[redhotspike]

Is there anyone out there with a trick for getting the air screw out? I have one which is stuck and stubborn - I have tried liquid wrench and carb cleaner. I tried twisting the screw in the tightening direction just to see if it'd loosen it up and it moved VERY slightly in that direction but no success...

[Nessism]

Is there anyone out there with a trick for getting the air screw out? I have one which is stuck and stubborn - I have tried liquid wrench and carb cleaner. I tried twisting the screw in the tightening direction just to see if it'd loosen it up and it moved VERY slightly in that direction but no success...

It's good news that you were able to move the screw a small amount. Keep going with the liquid wrench and try the screw every hour or so, both ways. Eventually it will loosen up and you should be able to get the screw out. Using some heat may help; heat the carb body and try the screw again. Just don't get in too much of a hurry and force anything. Take your time and hopefully you will get that ba$tered out.

[trippivot]

propane torch/ butane lighter torch type on the aluminum carb body lightly warm it up. and the brass will usually free up.

this is one of the most delicate procedures you'll ever do.

heat
massage (going in and out with the screw)
extractor left hand drill first

[Roostabunny]

Is there anyone out there with a trick for getting the air screw out? I have one which is stuck and stubborn - I have tried liquid wrench and carb cleaner. I tried twisting the screw in the tightening direction just to see if it'd loosen it up and it moved VERY slightly in that direction but no success...

I had good success with PB Blaster, and I'll second the "good news" that it moved slightly. Keep the chemicals on it and keep working it patiently in both directions, and it'll give way eventually. Probably goes without saying, but use a good-fitting screwdriver.

[first timer]

yes a good fitting screw driver is key, I would use a brand new one if i was you. you want a nice flat tip with nice sharp edges, this helps hold the blade in the slot.

[rapidray]

PB Blaster is the best to loosen the screw. Soak it for a day or 2 & it will come out. Keep spraying it to keep liquid on the top of the screw head. Ray.

[mike-s]

theres a relatively new product made by loctite called "freeze & release" that basically uses the expanding aerosol gasses to cool a lubricating oil down to about -43'c (-9'F or so), spray that localised for 8-10 seconds on the screw itself will shrink it slightly to help you loosen its grip as well as the lubricating oil also penetrating the rubber o ring and into the thread (my bet is the o ring is caught in the threads somehow). This stuff works, helped me remove a stuck head stud the other week that had the top threads torn off (yes im replacing all 8 studs and not just the one).

[Guest]

The o-ring isn't in the threads. The threads just oxidize themselves to the aluminim after awhile.
If you already buggered the screw end then a dremmel will get it out.

[Julia]

The end of a dremmel? I was thinking about putting a small drill bit on my dremmel and cutting out a deeper slot for the screw driver. Very carefully mind you. But first I'm going to soak the screw in PBX. But I buggered the head of the screw. I can tighten it but the top is rounded out to loosen.

[waterman]

As others have stated a well fitting screwdriver is essential. Unfortunately, these are often hard to find. I have reground an old screwdriver to fit the slot precisely. Just a couple minutes on a stationary grinder and good to go. I use this for the pilot mixture screws as well as the pilot jets.

I think on several of the carbs that I had, the pilot mixture screws were "cemented" in with lacquer or some other sealer, it had a red color to it. For these, I would apply gasket remover, essentially paint stripper and let sit. If I could wiggle the screw back and forth, I would exercise it until it bound up tight and then spray with PB, rest and repeat.

[Macguyver]

Loctite freeze and release

Be extremely sure that you have adequate ventilation when you use any type of freezing release product. This stuff is wicked toxic, essentially the same stuff that is in automobile air conditioner units, with some penetrating lube thrown in.

Also, if you plan to heat and then freeze, give the metal a few seconds to cool down a bit before you freeze it, otherwise it very well may crack on you due to the sudden 200 or so degree temp change.

My favorite method is to put some PB blaster on after mildly heating the offending screw/bolt housing, heat it a bit more so you can see it bubbling from the threads, apply more PB, heat more, give it a gentle, yet firm twist back and forth to clear the threads a bit, heat again, PB again, then let it sit for the night. (Please wear safety glasses any time you are heating metal, stress fractures tend to collect liquid and may rapidly expell it when heated)

If it is not loosened up then repeat as neccessary until it frees up.
Barring that, curse at it, threaten it with a hammer, curse at it some more, and drill it out on a drill press using a left hand drill bit.

Best of luck.

[Steve]

If you already buggered the screw end then a dremmel will get it out.

The end of a dremmel? I was thinking about putting a small drill bit on my dremmel and cutting out a deeper slot for the screw driver. Very carefully mind you. ...

To use the end of the Dremmel, you would pretty much have to have a milling bit, not a drill.

What I have done with my Dremmel is to use the reinforced cut-off wheel and cut a slot down the tower and cut a fresh groove in the top of the screw. Works best if the screw is turned so you are actually enhancing the original slot, not cutting a new one. I don't have any pictures of this (yet), but I will try to get some when I get home in a couple of weeks.

.