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    Carb Sync

    81 gs 1000
    Can anyone point me inthe right direction/
    I want to sync my carbs but dont have the suzuki ball type guages.
    I have a standard set of of 4 needle type vacum guages and noticed on the ball guages the outside carbs read higher than the inside. How does this relate to the needle type??

    Craig54

    #2
    Originally posted by Craig54 View Post
    81 gs 1000
    ....on the ball guages the outside carbs read higher than the inside.....
    Craig54
    Not sure I understand this, but you are aiming to have each of you carbs reading the same (hence the term "synched").

    The reading value is not important, but them all being the same is.
    Current:
    Z1300A5 Locomotive (swapped my Intruder for it), GS450 Cafe Project (might never finish it....), XT500 Commuter (I know - it's a Yamaha )

    Past:
    VL1500 Intruder (swapped for Z1300), ZX9R Streetfighter (lets face it - too fast....), 1984 GSX750EF, 1984 GSX1100EF (AKA GS1150)
    And a bunch of other crap Yamahas....

    Comment


      #3
      I understand what your saying but I don't have a figure for the ammount of difference they should be.

      Is there not any advice of bascliff's welcome pack?

      Comment


        #4
        On the ball type gauges the book says half a ball difference between 1 & 4 and 2 & 3 (1 & 4 higher). On the dial type gauges this means you need a slightly higher reading on 1 & 4 (the actual reading is immaterial).

        How much higher? I've only got the dial gauge type and I've never noticed any real difference between equal on all 4 and about half the thickness of the needle.
        79 GS1000S
        79 GS1000S (another one)
        80 GSX750
        80 GS550
        80 CB650 cafe racer
        75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
        75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

        Comment


          #5
          I did my 850 (mikuni) with the needle type gauges and had the two inside slightly lower than the two outside , the same as you would with the ball type.

          The motor now hummms.

          Comment


            #6
            There was an answer to your question that I had seen at one time.
            IIRC it was 1 cm of vacuum. (.39 inches) per 1/2 ball.
            Last edited by rustybronco; 02-21-2009, 12:19 PM.
            De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

            Comment


              #7
              i have a set of vacuum gauges for mine, and they are 4 standard vac gauges like a car would use. when i hhok them up, the needles dont just stay in one place they sweep like form 10 to 20 something like that. but the sweep is very close on all 4 gauges. i dont know what a good start poiint is for them or where they should be or how much they should move.
              there was no instruction with them.

              also does anyone know, the brass tubes that come with them, there is a plug with a small hole in the end, my inside tubes are way long, can they be cut down so they wont hit the motor case when tryintt to put them in, and if so does that plug need to be pressed back inside the tube or can i leav it out??

              Comment


                #8
                gauges

                Hi, I beleive you should have a restrictor in the tubes, this may insure a steadier read on the vaccum gauges. Not sure but thats my thought.
                bmac

                Comment


                  #9
                  As I understand it, if you have replaced the stock exhaust with a 4X1, set them all to the same level. At least that is how I'm running my bike. The stock systems had an interconnecting link between two pipes, which was the reason for the difference levels stated in the manual.

                  Tony.
                  '82 GS1100E



                  Originally posted by themess
                  Only in your own mind did you refute what I wrote.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Mysuzyq View Post
                    As I understand it, if you have replaced the stock exhaust with a 4X1, set them all to the same level. At least that is how I'm running my bike. The stock systems had an interconnecting link between two pipes, which was the reason for the difference levels stated in the manual.

                    Tony.
                    You are correct. Except some stock exhaust did not have the cross-over tube. (77-79 GS750) Then you set them even just like a 4 into 1. Dar

                    Comment


                      #11
                      these are the gauges that i have the tubes are brass and have plugs in the end, if i cut them down so they fit better, would i need the little plug put back in the enbd?????

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Gage instructions.

                        Originally posted by boba View Post
                        i have a set of vacuum gauges for mine, and they are 4 standard vac gauges like a car would use. when i hhok them up, the needles dont just stay in one place they sweep like form 10 to 20 something like that. but the sweep is very close on all 4 gauges. i dont know what a good start poiint is for them or where they should be or how much they should move.
                        there was no instruction with them.

                        also does anyone know, the brass tubes that come with them, there is a plug with a small hole in the end, my inside tubes are way long, can they be cut down so they wont hit the motor case when tryintt to put them in, and if so does that plug need to be pressed back inside the tube or can i leav it out??
                        I think you could use the instructions, but this will sum it up. The long brass tubes go on the outside Cylinders, #1 and 4.
                        Little white plastic valves should have come in the kit, they go inline on each rubber hose. With the bike running, you should slowly close down each plastic valve until the gage needle stops swinging, and gives a steady reading.
                        Be careful when tightening each brass tube, the little rubber washers rip apart easy. Use a little oil on the threads.
                        From here you should follow the service manual for your bike.
                        "Only fe' collected the old way, has any value." from His Majesty O'Keefe (1954 film)
                        1982 GS1100G- road bike, body, seat and suspension modded
                        1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine) track bike, much re-engineered
                        1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane; hooligan bike, restored

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Carb Sync

                          MMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmm
                          Thanks for replies.

                          hampshirehog said
                          How much higher? I've only got the dial gauge type and I've never noticed any real difference between equal on all 4 and about half the thickness of the needle.

                          sounds good to me

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Not sure why Suzuki has the inner carbs of 2-3 slightly lower than
                            the outer 1 and 4 carbs. Most other manufacturers are even in
                            the synch procedure. As for the needle jumping around, you can
                            install an 8mm metric or SAE 1/4" inline valve that will restrict the
                            flow to dial-in the stability.

                            Comment

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