Replacing the Stator on a GS750T

[Anonymous]

Ok, the diags are in, the stator on my bike is a write off. Interestingly enough, my RR seems to be fine!

I've ordered a Ricks stator for my bike (no canadian distributors for Electrex) and now i have a couple of questions about the installation:

1) The Clymer manual i have says to use an impact driver on the bolts holding the crankcase cover on. My impression of an impact wrench has always been that it's a tool to haul out when conventional tools fail, is it really required for these bolts?

2) Do i have to replace the gasket when i remove the cover? Can i fabricate another one out of gasket material, or do i have to buy a specific one for the bike (time is a bit of an issue right now, as i'm supposed to leave for a motorcycle vacation this week, and ordering parts is at least a two day ordeal for me)

3) How much oil goes into the generator/crank case when the swap has been made?

Anything else i should know about changing the stator? Any tips/tricks?

Thanks in advance,

[chuckycheese]

Stator

You might be able to get the bolts out with a large, conventional screwdriver but it's really easy to strip a phillips head screw so that's why they recommend an impact driver...I think I would use it.

It seems like new gaskets are always recommended but often unnecessary...if you're really careful removing it, you'll probably get by with the old one. You should be able to tell by looking at it when you get the cover off. My guess is, you'll be alright.

You'll need to drain your oil before you do the job and then just perform a regular oil change when you're done. You'll need about 4 US guarts or 3.3 Imperial quarts (assuming you also change the filter).

[Anonymous]

You'll need to drain your oil before you do the job and then just perform a regular oil change when you're done. You'll need about 4 US guarts or 3.3 Imperial quarts (assuming you also change the filter)

Argh! I just did one... *sniff* oh well, so much for that. It's probably a good idea to do one before the trip anyway. I take it then that the oil in there is the same as the rest of the engine. e.g. the rest of the engine will be dry once i'm done with this?

Oh well.

[focus frenzy]

not dry but very low, if you change the stator with the bike on it's center stand you will loose about half the oil, it is alot neater and cleaner to drain the engine before removing the stator cover.
the magnets in the rotor will make it dificult to get the cover off, you can spray around the cover base with WD-40 penatrating lubricant to loosen the gasket, if the cover has been on for a long time the steel of the screws will react with the aluminum of the engine case and a normal screw driver wont work, the impact driver noted in the manual is differant than what most people think of, it is a type of screw driver that you hold in the screw head and hit the end of the handle with a hammer, this causes the shank to turn freeing stuck screws, it is a very valuable tool for working on older bikes.

PS: if you have difficulty removing the cover, you can always use jumper cables to get it off! 8O :twisted:

[HiSPL]

PSZZTTTT...........BOOM

[Anonymous]

I found that the bolts holding the cover on aren't too hard - it's the screws underneath, holding the alternator itself that need an impact tool. Like the manual says, make a note of which crank case bolts come from which holes - they're of varying lengths. Be careful not to over tighten the crankcase bolts when you put them back in - it's quite easy to crack the case.
I'd be surprised if you don't need a new gasket. I have a spare one which you're welcome to if you think it'll arrive in time from the UK.

Cheers
Roger

[Anonymous]

I just checked, and my crank case cover is held on by bolts, 8mm to be precise. I haven't taken the cover off yet, but I'll be sure to check to see what's holding the stator on.

As for the gasket, I somehow don't think it'll make it in time

I'm going to try and cut my own from a big piece of gasket material if i can't find one from my dealership (which wouldn't necessarily surprise me)

Thanks for all the help!

[HiSPL]

One great thing about the T model was that all the engine covers are held on with bolts instead of screws

[Hap Call]

I'm going to try and cut my own from a big piece of gasket material if i can't find one from my dealership (which wouldn't necessarily surprise me)

Make sure you use the right thickness on the gasket material...it is critical. Also, it can be a pain to get the cover off due to the magnetic pull from the magnets...what ever you do, do not use a screw driver to pry it off. Be patient and it will come off!

Hap

[Anonymous]

Well, i was successful, got the new stator in, and i decided to change the battery as well, just to be on the safe side.

My dealer had the gasket i needed in stock, so i didn't have to cut my own (thank god, when i saw the complexity of the thing, i knew i was done had i needed to do it myself)

It was quite a bit easier then expected, which is good.

Thanks for all the help folks!

[argonsagas]

Obviously, this is a bit late, since the replacement has been done, but I hope you installed the three stator retaining bolts with a locking compound.

Loctite blue works well.

If you did not do that, and if you did not use the impact tool to set the bolts, I would suggest you consider removing the cover and doing so. NOW.

If neither of these were done, it is quite possible for the bolts to loosen and back off a bit, and the bolt(s) will then cause damage.

If you used a clean gasket, without any compound (none should have been needed) then this is an easy job, and the gasket can be re-used.

BTW.....for the bolts, which are of different sizes.....take a box and punch a line of holes in it. Then remove the bolts sequentially and put them in the holes. Install them in reverse order.


Or, you could do as Carmen just did.. ...take a digital photo of the case, print it and stick it on a box. Then punch the applicable holes.

[Anonymous]

When I changed the stator out on my GS1000 I simply bought some 3M Red gasket silicone compound and applied it to both the crankcase and cover and it has never leaked. After the bolts were put back on and let it sit over night I simply cut away the excess with a scalpel and it has never leaked once. I agree that loctite is the best thing to use on the stator wires containment bracket screws.