Maintenance questions galore (clutch, rear wheel, gas tank)

[Fenixgoon]

Hey all,

I went to adjust my clutch with my handy Clymer manual but realized I have no idea which locknuts the book is talking about. My bike is a 1982 GS650G.

Here's my clutch adjuster:

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/3666/img0385copy.jpg

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/8929/img0388copy.jpg

Clymer manual says:
1) "Pull back rubber boot and loosen locknut securing engine mounted cable adjuster"

Do they mean the locknut in the center of the 2nd picture (I know the pic isn't that good, sorry) or the one that's in focus in the 1st picture?

2) Loosen locknut and screw in cable adjuster on clutch handlebar lever.

I got this one ok since you just pull back the rubber boot and unscrew.



Question 2 - how do I change a tire and what tools would I need? My rear tire has a leak *somewhere* but it's a slow leak, so I'm not sure whether I should replace it or just patch the leak if I can find it.

Question 3 - anyone have experience using Por-15 to clean and seal a gas tank? What do I need to remove, if anything, from the tank (petcock, gas level sensor, etc) My tank is rusted in on the inside, and I meant to pick some up but never got around to it.


Thanks a ton!

[mighty13d]

a link to people talking about tank sealing:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=133103&highlight=por

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Fenixgoon,

When my clutch is not engaged, the clutch arm is closer to the 1 o'clock, 2 o'clock-ish position.



Here are the instructions from the Suzuki Shop Manual.




You'll find a lot of tire changing information on my website. There's also some tank cleaning information. Here are some direct links.

Tank Cleaning

Rear Wheel Removal

Tire Info/Changing Tires

Tire Change "How To"
(By Mr. catbed)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[sdbuchert]

I used the POR-15 tank sealer kit and it worked well. I started by removing ALL of the hardware on the tank. Then I put a variety of nuts and bolts in the tank and shook it around, vacuumed out the debris, shook it around again, etc... Next I used POR-15's rust stripper/etching acid that comes with the kit, and this made the inside of the tank nice and shiny...turns out though there was a lot more rust than I thought, and once the acid did its job ( I let it sit for a while with acid in it and duct tape sealing any holes), there were a lot more pinholes that appeared along the seams and on the bottom of the tank. I put in the tank sealer, which did its job except that it only filled the smallest microscopic pin holes...I had to go back with JB Weld to patch the larger ones. Some people say that gas eats through JB Weld, but I think thats BS... Maybe the older stuff wasn't any good, but the JB Weld I use says it's "impervious to gasoline" on the back of the tube, and the tank has survived 2 years without a leak and with gas in it the whole time... The only caution I would have for you is to protect your paint--I'm not sure what the acid would do to it. I had all the paint stipped off my tank when I did the lining becasue I was repainting it anyways...
Hope that all wasn't too boring... later.