Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Won't run without choke

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Won't run without choke

    79 gs850
    What I have done:
    Cleaned carbs by soaking them each for a day or two
    Ran a fine wire through passages of jets, holes, etc..
    Bench tuned them after assembly
    Drain tank, new gas, cleaned petcock and screen
    New intake boots
    New o rings for carbs
    New air filter/air box seals

    What's happening:
    The bike fires right up but only when full choke is applied. As soon as the choke is put down too far it dies. Too lean? What should be adjusted, fuel screw inside float bowl?

    I am also getting back fire from carbs 2 and 4.

    I noticed that coming from the right side of the bike, the very last spark plug (4?) is leaking either gas or oil, I can see if bubbling out of the hole slightly. It was too hot too touch to see if it was gas or oil, looked to be dark so I thinking oil.

    #2
    Sounds like it's running lean. You have to be meticulous when cleaning the carbs / tightening your rubbers up etc. Did you strip the carbs completely or just pull the jets? If you didn't you'll need to do the whole thing again.

    The leak at the plug is probably fuel I reckon, from running on choke. Is the plug tight with a good washer?
    79 GS1000S
    79 GS1000S (another one)
    80 GSX750
    80 GS550
    80 CB650 cafe racer
    75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
    75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
      Sounds like it's running lean. You have to be meticulous when cleaning the carbs / tightening your rubbers up etc. Did you strip the carbs completely or just pull the jets? If you didn't you'll need to do the whole thing again.

      The leak at the plug is probably fuel I reckon, from running on choke. Is the plug tight with a good washer?

      Yes, I completely took them apart(slide assembly too), soaked them and really cleaned them. Replaced all the o rings (cycleorings.com),

      You are prob right about the gas leaking from plug, I will check to make sure its tight. More worried about the cabrs running to lean. What should I adjust? I wll have to take off float bowls to adjust fuel right?

      Comment


        #4
        You don't have to take float bowls off to adjust the fuel screws. The fuel screw is exposed but it is in a very tight spot under the carb where there is little to no room to work with. I don't have the proper screw driver so i do it the harder way. I take off my rack of carbs and adjust it that way. Doesn't take me more than 5-7mins to take of the carbs but i know there are easier ways.

        Specs for fuel screws is 5/8 turn out. I go 1 to 1 1/4 turn out. Air is about 2 to 2 1/2 turns out. A descent starting point. I then put my carb colour tuner on to fine tune each carb. I have not gotten a good feel for exactly how many turns in/out with the colour tune yet as i just got it. It works well. You can really see the yellow to blue color change by adjusting the air screw.
        1979 GS850G
        2004 SV650N track bike
        2005 TT-R125 pit bike
        LRRS #246 / Northeast Cycles / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersport

        http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k443/tas850g/

        Comment


          #5
          Won't run without choke

          Bet the bike spent at least several weeks or more sitting with fuel in carbs.
          Ethanol gas will punish you without mercy for this.
          You said you soaked carbs. Not sure what in. Here is the only method I know that works Read this as my personal experience at the Honda/Suzuki shop I work at) For what it's worth.
          1. Remove & totally dismantle carbs.
          2. Have bodies & all parts "cooked" in an Ultrasonic cleaner. (May want to leave rubber parts out of this & clean with carb cleanr/spray by hand)
          3. Flush all parts with water to remove the detergent. Some use a water pic to "pressure wash" the passageways & jets.
          4. Spray all passageways & jets with carb clean or water pik & then blow out with air pressure.
          5. Reassemble, set floats and pilot screw & remount & synch carbs.

          6. You should have flushed all old gas out of tank.

          7. Purchase Starbrite's product STARTRON. Use this to protect your fuel supply from Ethanol Phase Separation & use it religiously whenever you are not riding weekly. In as little as 2 weeks the ethanol nightmare can cause the fuel to again breakapart with water & clog again. Usually you get better time but it got me in just two weeks, Drain your carb's float bowls manually if bike will sit more than a month or two even if you are using Startron.

          Look up "Phase Separation of Ehtanol Fuel" in your search engine. Ask lawnmower shops & boat yards if they are having an unusual run of carb work since 10% ethanol gas went into regular use.

          No axe to grind here, just relating what I see pretty much every day. We have a 100% sucess rate with this method involving hundreds of carb problems. That is once the job is done this way & customer uses STARTRON not a single unit came back for redo. Made me a believer.

          Comment


            #6
            Suzukione,

            Thanks for the great advice. I did soak it in carb drip and really take them apart down to every nut and bolt. In the mean time the bike is running and driving now, I will go out and get some startron. I have done everything in your list except for the water pick. I'm just waiting on a carb tuner now to fine tune them before it goes on the road.

            Thanks for you all your help. Now I just have to play with the electric and get the push button start to work as well as the the left blinkers (right side works). I'll keep you guys posted.

            Comment

            Working...
            X