Regulator? Battery? Stator?

[spyug]

As you mention, you need to work from the simple to the complex. In electrical issues that means grounds and connectors. Ineffective grounds are always the starting point. Make sure the ground from the battery is clean at the terminal end and the frame/engine connection. Good clean metal to metal.

There is also a failure in grounding from the R/R in lots of these bikes and running an additional ground lead from the R/R (black/white) directly to the negative battery post can sort a wonky charging system which might be a partial cause of your problems.

After cleaning up all grounds then you should definitely look at corrosion in in your connectors as these are also known for creating electrical gremlins as the others have mentioned.

As you no doubt know, with electrical issues, you need to be thorough and systematic. Start at the battery ground and work through to the controls.
something will turn up or maybe not but if you go over them , clean and tidy, you will likely resolve your issues.

Good luck with it.
Cheers & welcome,
Spyug

[Plasterdog]

One of the first things I tried was taking the ground from the RR to a better place. It was attached to the bolt that holds the plastic plate with all the 'lectric bits (fuse/solanoid/RR). This has a rubber grommet with a metal core. Now the ground is directly on the frame using one of the airbox bolts, that seemed to improve the readings from the RR, slightly.

[Plasterdog]

Update.

Ok. Working from the simple to the complex, checked, cleaned, adjusted all grounds/connections. So much fun!
Before doing so the readings for 2500 rpm at the battery terminals were average 13v, after, 13.5v so my conclusion, for now is all is ok.
Little concerend that the readings are an average, meaning that with a steady rpm the voltage still fluctuated, no more than 1v in either direction but still there was a fluctuation (less so after doing the clean etc.).
Any thoughts?
OH yeah, the battery is showing less than 14v after sitting on the tender overnight. I'll change the battery this week.

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Plasterdog,

You really should be charging at over 14v when revving at 4000rpm or so. What is the AC voltage output of your stator? Have you had a chance to clean the fusebox according to Mr. posplayer's instructions in my thread above? Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Plasterdog]

Thanks Cliff.
I'm going by the Stator Papers IV chart, which says that @2500 rpm voltage should be 13.5v and 5000 rpm less than 14.8 this is now (after cleaning/adjusting wires/connections) true(ish).
Meaning that I am getting around 13.5v but it fluctuates by .1v to .3v +/-.
But as the battery, after being charged via the Tender, is giving me at best about 13v, I think I need to replace that with a new one before going any further. The common thread on checking the charging system seems to be "...make sure your battery is good first..."
After many years working on Minis (real ones), Austin Healey Sprites, MG Midgets and the oh so sh...oddy Lucas electrics, I've learned that with all automotive electrical problems to change & check one thing at a time.

[Rein]

Take this chance to get a good maintenance free battery. One of the simplest, but most convenient upgrades there are.

[Plasterdog]

Take this chance to get a good maintenance free battery. One of the simplest, but most convenient upgrades there are.

I do have one but after only two years... I like the idea of being able to see the levels. There again this is not a well known brand, I can't even remember who made/makes it.
I'll see what YUSA has.

[Rein]

I do have one but after only two years... I like the idea of being able to see the levels. There again this is not a well known brand, I can't even remember who made/makes it.
I'll see what YUSA has.

I think the closest YUASA has is maintenance free acids that you add to the batteries, but I'm not sure what that means.

I've been using an AGM battery from Motobatt on my ATV for years, and it's still kicking and cranking plenty since 2004.

[Plasterdog]

Update

Short version:
Bike runs good, bike stops running good, bike stops running.
No electrical power. Grr. Get a tow home (Yea! for AMA/MoTow!).
Buy new Batt + RR + Stator. Parts arrive Friday. Parts go in Saturday.
Bike runs great on Sunday!

Long Version:
Nah! I'd rather go for a ride!

Why replace everything?
The Stator was the original, 26 years old.
The RR was a cheapo and may still be good but I want a peace of mind. Why risk another breakdown?
Battery was FUBARed by then (battery tender kept giving me the orange light - red light dance).

The Stator Papers were good but as all my tests kept coming up inconclusive (and a tad inconsistent). I figured I might just as well replace all and be certain.

Tips to replacing the Stator.
When pulling the old stator wires out don't pull the old sleeve leave it in place. Do pull the empty sleeve back leaving enough to pull for the return journey.
The shaft for the starter motor gearing comes out easily and has two washers one in front and one in back, make sure you put them back. Its not hard, just fiddly. Had to turn the the crank shaft to help align the shaft and its housing.
The main retaining piece for the cable off the stator must be repositioned correctly, the clearence 'tween that and the magnet housing thingy is not huge.

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Plasterdog,

I've always replaced my r/r when replacing the stator too. But I've never had to remove the starter.

I have done some silly stuff. Like crimping and soldering new connectors at the end of the stator wires only to realize I have to cut them off because I forgot to put the wires in the sheathing.

I have an AGM battery from Yuasa. It's about a year and a half old now and had no problems at all. Haven't given it a thought.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Plasterdog]

Hey Mr. BassCliff,
(must ask you about where that comes from -do you play a bass, double/guitar/drum/saxaphone/sing, near a precipice? Do you like fishing for wide mouths and your name is similar to that of a large red dog that lives on an island and has his own PBS show?)

Ah... the starter stayed where it was but as the wires from the stator up to the RR etc run through the starter motor housing then hang a sharp right... that's where it gets tight/difficult to push the wires, hence leaving the sleeve/sheath in place makes it very easy to get all three through.

I did manage to forget to slide the rubber seals (for the connectors) onto the first set of wires, not a simple task to do once the soldering is done.

From what I could gather on the i-net was that Yuasa makes the battery for everyone and it gets sold under various brand names. Some for less others for a lot more, I bought mine at the dealership as it was easier and quicker than on line. ($100.00 inc tax etc.)