Brake pedal locked up.

[mark_vaughn]

Hello all.

In summary, '81 GS 1100E. Hasn't run in over 5 years. I am tearing it down and working through everything. Current speedbump, the rear brake pedal movement through the frame.

It seems to be locked in place by corrosion (the part that goes through the frame, not the pedal itself). Previous owner parked the bike when it developed braking problems, but he didn't know what was wrong, just couldn't stop. So I am thinking this thing has been rusted in place for over 5 years. I have gone the wd-40 and BFH route with no luck.

Anyone removed one of these? Is there a lock pin or something I have missed? Are these available NOS(haven't found one from the usual OEM suspects), if not anyone have a parts bike? I want to find a possible replacement before I really swing the hammer and tear something up. I cant figure out any other way to get leverage on it.

Any ideas?
Thanks.

[hp1000s]

Did you disconnect the pedal from the master? Could be a frozen piston...there's an idea.

[Steve]

Had one locked up on an 850 that I just got. No problems removing it. I seem to remember a nut on the inside of the frame that had to be removed and the linkage to the master cylinder, as well as the return spring. Once it's all apart, just wire-wheel the inside of the pedal and the pivot shaft on the frame, grease it and put it all back together.

.

[jimfj]

I was just messing with the same thing on a GS1000L. The pedal was fine, the M/C piston was frozen. I put clean fluid in the M/C and let it sit for a couple of days. It broke free and then I tore everything down and cleaned it well. If all that is going on be prepared for a rear caliper teardown and cleaning as well. The pistons in the rear caliper were frozen and wouldn't move either. Usually, a cleaning will get everything back in order.

My .02


Jim

[mark_vaughn]

Its not the master cylinder this time (at least that is not my current problem). Everything is removed except the pivot.

I guess I will wait until I get the engine out and then use the torch to heat things a bit before using the hammer again. It seems to just be corrosion locked. Hopefully I won't damage it in the removal process.

[Big T]

Right idea, but wrong product

WD - 40 is only a fair penetrator. Use PB Blaster or Seafoam spray. Apply it 1-2 times/day for 2-3 days, then tap the end of the shaft with a wood block and hammer (plastic dead blow works best)

As noted above , be sure and remove all connections to the master cylinder before whacking away

[pontiacstogo]

I've got a similar situation with my Kat. Brake pedal was locked solid. Through a combination of PB Blaster and rubber mallet taps on the pedal, I was able to get the pedal to move up and down 1/2 inch or so.

I've now removed the pedal but I cannot get the pivot out of the frame. It looks like the pivot/pedal took a hit at some point as the pivot is actually bent. I may have to cut through it at the splines so that it is flush with the frame before I can remove it.

[Zooks]

Had one locked up on an 850 that I just got. No problems removing it. I seem to remember a nut on the inside of the frame that had to be removed and the linkage to the master cylinder, as well as the return spring. Once it's all apart, just wire-wheel the inside of the pedal and the pivot shaft on the frame, grease it and put it all back together.

.

Had exactly this happen on two bikes now. The hydraulics were all fine but the actual pedal pivot (shaft) was frozen in the frame. They get full of corrosion and mud after 20+ years. This is a moving part that almost never gets greased as regular maintenance.