Gear Slippage ... help!

[Steve]

Besides, a mechanic will charge a good penny and you'll save doing it yourself, learning a thing or two in the process.

But that's only if the mechanic will allow it into the shop in the first place.

Many shops have implemented a 10-year rule. Anythnig older than that, they won't work on it.

.

[Fishman]

Shoot at that price, I'd snap up that transmission off ebay if I were you. If you need it, the price is reasonable and the part available, don't hesitate.

If your engine is good, why change out a proven part for something that isn't?

[ryonker]

Hey, you want some help?

Where in MN do you live? I live in White Bear Lake.

Let me know.

Rick

[bdub416]

Thanks for all the comments fellas!

Fishman, I like the way you think ... why risk it when a $25 part may do the trick.

ryonker, YES ... I sent a PM.

For someone that has no idea what they're doing can this be a weekend job?

[reddirtrider]

Thanks for all the comments fellas!

Fishman, I like the way you think ... why risk it when a $25 part may do the trick.

ryonker, YES ... I sent a PM.

For someone that has no idea what they're doing can this be a weekend job?

It's a one day job if you have all the parts and don't hit any big snags.

[bdub416]

Any resources? I've used BikeCliff's website quite a few times for other things (if you end up reading this, thank you by the way!), but haven't seen a write-up for tranny related work.

[reddirtrider]

Any resources? I've used BikeCliff's website quite a few times for other things (if you end up reading this, thank you by the way!), but haven't seen a write-up for tranny related work.

None that I know of. I suggest downloading a manual.

Basically, you need to pull the motor, then break it down by removing the heads, cylinders, clutch, pistons, etc. Basically take it apart to the cases. Then split the cases and replace the gears. Reverse the process when putting it back together. Reference the manual frequently and use sealer where it says, toque to specs, etc.

If you've never done it before, it's not a one day job. You'll need to pay attention when taking things apart and put the different components and their fasteners into their own boxes so you don't get bolts mixed up. It's nice to have the clutch components in one box when you need them - you get the idea.

One more thing. I mentioned manuals more than once. Make sure you have one. The exploded views will come in real handy.

Read the manual several times before you tear into it and make sure you have your parts before hand, or you'll have it in pieces waiting. Even better if you get someone to help that's done it before.

It's not rocket science, but if you don't have any mechanical aptitude it might not be a job you want to take on. If, however, you can adjust your valves or rebuild your carbs, you can do this. It's no different, just digging a little deeper is all.

Motors are all basically the same. Once you see how it's put together you'll get a better feel for how they work. I'm generally impressed with the shifting mechanisms on motorcycles. Pretty cool stuff.

[Nessism]

Second, pull the clutch off and check the gear change pawls and springs (I've never worked on a 450 - you might be able to do this without pulling the clutch) - might just need a clean or could be worn.

My old 450 shifted like crap. I pulled off the clutch hub to have a look at the shift drum detent mechanism and found the pawl was out of place. Not sure if a screw came loose or if a hack mechanic had his way. At any rate, after putting everything back were it belonged the bike shifted perfectly.

[Guest]

You can keep the top end on and just split the bottom case. You will have to take off the clutch basket, most behind it, crankcase covers and of course all the crankcase bolts.
Get a manual

[reddirtrider]

You can keep the top end on and just split the bottom case. You will have to take off the clutch basket, most behind it, crankcase covers and of course all the crankcase bolts.
Get a manual

How hard is it to assemble like that? Thinking back to the 1100 rebuild, it seems like it would be a nightmare getting everything lined up by lowering the top end down with the crank still in the top case.

It sure would save a lot of time and effort.

[waterman]

I have opened my cases on both 650s, once with top end on and off. As for reassembly, it isn't any harder with head on. In a sense it was easier since I didn't have to worry about studs getting bunged up when flipped over. Generally, if you know topend is in good shape, no leaks, or poor compression, you can save yourself some time by leaving topend attached. If you are going full rebuild than obviously tear it all down.