'83 GS550E won't start

[jcoov1104]

Hi All,

I'm new to The GSR and amazed at the wealth of knowledge on here. Hopefully someone can help me out.
I've got a 1983 GS550E with 19,000+ on her. She's been running great for the last year and a half that I've had her on the road, never had an electrical problem. I went on a 190 mile ride yesterday with some guys from work and she ran great the whole way. We made 3 or 4 stops throughout the trip and each time it started up just fine. After we got back to our starting point, I parked the bike for about 30 minutes. When I went to leave, I pushed the button and nothing happened, like the battery was dead, so I jump started it. Ran good with the jump start and I got it home. I hooked up a multimeter to the battery and it's showing 13 V, so I tried again with the push button. As soon as I turn key the headlight and indicators dim out and the meter shows a drop to only 1 or 2 V. When I turn the key off, the voltage comes back up to between 12 and 13 V. She'll start and run just fine with a push but not with electric start. Thanks in advance.
-Jed

[almarconi]

I would check the starter solenoid and the starter. It sounds like the starter is dying, drawing alot of amps and not turning. Does the solenoid click when the start button is pushed? Try removing the starter cover and see if the starter is hot. Since you can push start it the motor is not locked up, which makes me believe the problem lies in the starter motor.

[jcoov1104]

starter

When I turn the key there is nothing and there's definitely nothing when I push the starter button, not even a click from the starter. Yesterday, when I turned the key the first time I tested it after getting home, the indicators and headlight at least came on a tiny little bit. Now, even with a full charge, I get nothing at all. I have a spare starter from a parts bike, should I try and swap that in or keep looking?
Thanks,

-Jed

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. jcoov1104,

Have you taken your battery to get it load tested? See the links below for gems like "The Stator Papers", guides, and service manuals.

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[jcoov1104]

dry battery

I pulled the battery and I'm going to get it load tested tonight. It's a cheaper, wet style battery and when I pulled it out this afternoon, I noticed that it was completely dry so it's probably toast. I've never seen that happen before. I've checked the battery every month or so and topped off the acid when it got a little low. What would cause all the acid to boil off like that? Could it just be that long trip on an older battery (maybe just the battery's time?) or could something in the charging system cause that to happen?
Thanks again
-Jed

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Overcharging can run your battery dry. Start with a known, good battery and go through the Stator Papers to figure out what's going on with your charging system. When overcharging, the first suspect is the regulator/rectifier. Don't forget to clean every electrical connection on your bike, and I mean every connection and ground.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[jcoov1104]

progress

I got a new battery, printed out the fault diagram and started checking the steps last night. I only had time to get as far as the first connection from the R/R to the harness and found it was badly corroded and consequently got hot and melted. I replaced the connector then I visually inspected the R/R, found that it had got so hot it scorched the paint on the mounting plate. The back of the R/R had also cracked in a few places. I have a spare R/R from a parts bike (85 GS550ES) that is clearly bigger and may be off of another newer bike. I figure I will mount that one up and go thru the stator papers again from the start and see where I'm at. I'm also going to move the mounting position from behind the battery to out on the rear subframe on the side of the bike in the wind. Hopefully this will alleviate any future problems.

-Jed

[GS550ES-Hank]

If you find that the replacement R/R is also faulty, I've done an upgrade to a modern R/R on my '86550 following the advice from the R/R Replacement List thread, and it functions flawlessly. They're dirt cheap at the moment too.

[jcoov1104]

fault diagnosis

I'm working my way through the stator paper fault diagnosis and the next step is to clean all the connections before starting over again. What's the best way to clean the connections? Is it a good idea to fill in the gaps in the connector plugs with dielectric grease to keep out moisture/corrosion?

Thanks

[GS550ES-Hank]

I usually go after the male connectors with some 600 grit sand paper, and use dielectric grease in the female connectors.

[jcoov1104]

connectors...

what is the best way to get the male pins out of the plastic connector housing? Maybe a very small screwdriver or a fine pick? Are they locked in with a barb that can be pushed out of the way?

[BassCliff]

Hi,

All of the bullet connectors just pull apart. The plastic sleeves are there to protect the connections from the elements. Some might be really stuck together due to corrosion. There is a lot of information on my site about wiring harness cleaning and repair. Look in More Info/Tips/Odds and Ends in the "Electrical" section.
Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[jcoov1104]

R/R question...

Is the black/white wire coming from the R/R the ground? I'm 98% sure, I'm just hoping for some confirmation on this. Also, Is it a good idea to ground the R/R directly to the battery? Will this help matters? I thought I had seen a post to this effect somewhere in my forum wanderings, but now I can't seem to find it.

[jcoov1104]

I think I answered my own question...

After searching and searching, then posting my question, I searched one more time and I think I found what I need from a previous thread.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=136759&highlight=Regulator/Rectifier+ground

"That's the setup on my bike. What's really important is to run a ground wire from your regulator/rectifier (r/r) directly to the negative terminal of your battery. Make sure ALL of your electrical connections and grounds are clean and corrosion-free, from the headlight bucket to the tail light.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff"


Among other posts and this one in particular, I found my answer. Thank you BassCliff and others