Valve Overlap

[kyscootertrash]

Timing

Yes you can! You set the advance with the crank trigger plate! You turn it clockwise to retard the timing & counter-clockwise to advance it. What do you have the timing set at with full advance? You should be at 35 degrees if you have good gas in it & not too much compression. Did you ever read the instructions & operation manual for the Dyna 2000? I ran that system on my last bike & LOVED it! Ray.

Ray, the motor was static timed at 33 degrees, and then checked with a light. Not to be rude, but I do know which direction gets which result on the trigger plate. What I would like is to have more advance at idle, and keep the full advance at 33 degrees. You can accomplish this on a mechanical advance, by limiting the travel of the flyweights( 10 or 15 degrees total), and installing stiffer springs( to bring in full advance later). These actions let you run the timing slightly retarded on a high compression street motor, bring the advance in later to prevent pinging, and keep enough timing for a decent idle.

[kyscootertrash]

Solved

Problem solved!!! She pulls strong from 2000 all the way to red line. I borrowed a sniffer from a buddy to get the mixture right on the low side of the throttle. Here's a rundown of settings.

Cams: Intake at 106 degrees, Exhaust at 108.5 degrees
Valves: Intake at .004, Exhaust at .0045
Timing: 33 degrees, with full advance at 4500 RPM
Carbs with pod filters: Dynojet Stage 3 kit, needle at 2nd notch from top (the little washer above the spring, had extras, put one above c-clip to equal about 2.5), Pilot jet is a 50, tuned idle mixture with motor hot (averaged 1.5 to 2 turns out from bottom), Main jet is 140.

I got out and played today for a little while. No pinging after getting hung in traffic. Made the mistake of hitting second kinda hard on concrete, even with the six inch extended swingarm, she stood straight up.

I want to thank everyone for their input. Drop me a line if I can return the favor.

[rapidray]

So, what turned out to be the problem? Also, with that much motor work why aren't you running smoothbores or flatslides? You're giving up another 10 or so HP right there on a motor like you described yours to be. Ray.

[posplayr]

scooter

So what was the problem? Timing advance? How much did you change it to go from not working to working?

On my GS1100ED with 1168, 0.340 webcams (105/107) ported head and 1150 carbs. All of the fussing was involved with moving between

• 145 to 150 and 152.5 Mikuni mains (ended in 145's where Cheff had originally started)
• needles back and forth 1-3.5 grooves with main changes but ended at 2.5 grooves on DJ needle.
• Stock air jets
• Timing is Dyna, stock advance.
• Oh yea and premium gas is a must.

Runs great tremendus power band and idles great.
Pos

[kyscootertrash]

Problem

It was a combination of things. Some of the stuttering was pinging. The rest was carb settings. The mixture was too rich at 1/4 or less throttle, too lean at about 1/2 throttle, and fine the rest of the way up. I had to take the carbs off a couple of times, but it was worth it. Ray, I plan on putting 38 flatsides on her after she gets a few more miles. Someone else had "tuned" these 36mm carbs, I made the mistake in assuming they were tuned properly.

[rapidray]

If the compression is really 12 to 1 like you said, you may not want to run more than 32 degrees with pump gas so it won't detonate when it gets hot in traffic. A batch of 108 or 110 octane & 35 degrees with 38s on that motor should have you in the 9s if you can keep the front end down & control wheelies! Ray.

[kyscootertrash]

Wheelies

On the street, I usually only have to really watch it in first. She usually breaks traction just enough to only float the front end in second. As far as fuel, I'm trying to keep it somewhat user friendly on 93 octane. I guess I could pump in some 105 to have a little fun on a poker run.

[Guest]

Keep an eye on those plugs. 140 seems a little small on the main and 50 is big on the pilot.