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bs34 on kz1000

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    bs34 on kz1000

    hi,
    looking for a little help....i have a set of bs 34 i bought all gone through for my 78 kz1000...bike has 1075 kit, 10.5 to 1 mtc forged pistons, andrews 2x cams, pods, and vance and hines pipe with comp baffle....i havent mounted these yet, but have 140 main, 40 pilots
    i am going to put in...i know of one person with a similar set up and is running same jetting, but admittedly is learning these as he goes along....i am currently running vm 28 and they are pretty good, but there is always room for improvement....
    i have two questions...
    1-where can i get the handle and rod for the horizontally oriented choke?
    2-what do the screws in the throats adjust on the pod side of carbs?

    i ve torn apart more than one vm series, but these are new to me....any help would be greatly appreciated.....will try to post up pics to make answering a little easier.....thanks, keith

    #2
    another pic

    1111111111111111111

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by keith1 View Post
      i have two questions...
      1-where can i get the handle and rod for the horizontally oriented choke?
      2-what do the screws in the throats adjust on the pod side of carbs?
      1. The handle that activates the 'choke' is a thumb lever that is incorporated into the bottom of the control switch assembly on the left handgrip.
      2. That is not really a "screw", it's the pilot air jet. That air jet, along with the pilot fuel jet in the float bowl (next to the main jet, under the rubber plug) will pre-set the pilot mixture. The "idle mixture adjustment screw" (the one under the infamous plug on the top of the outlet throat) will then control how much of this pre-set mixture is allowed into the engine at low throttle openings.

      To locate the cable and thumb lever for the 'choke', go to just about any GS from 1982 and up, then look on the HANDLEBAR fiche for "Cable, starter" and then go to the LEFT HANDLE SWITCH fiche and look for the LEVER, STARTER and its mounting hardware. It helps if you have the actual switch assembly from an '82-and-up GS, otherwise you will need to glue a small strip of flat plastic stock on the bottom of the switch assembly to keep the 'choke' lever retainer from rotating. I have done this a couple of times to '81 switch assemblies, it's not too hard.

      .
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      Comment


        #4
        thanks for the info....

        Comment


          #5
          I'd start with a 45 pilot jet.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            i mounted and ran them with the 40/140 . pulled good and sounded sweet till about 6200...started stuttering then..i got it to spin to 8500 once finessing throttle...gonna be trial and error.....any truth to the rumor floating around on another forum that these carbs running pods wont pull enough vacuum to open slides all the way without modifications ? i had a gs1150e with a bigbore kit that i m pretty sure had bs series on it and it had pods....i dont know if mods where done to carbs, but i know it hauled serious ass and i still miss it.......thanks for any input ....keith

            Comment


              #7
              Keith, if you want, give me a call at 714-356-7845. I will help you over the phone instead of you having to wait for answers from here. Ray.

              Comment


                #8
                ray,
                thanks for the input....rode bike today and it does seem like it might need backed down on main....i called z-1 enterprises today and ordered bowl gaskets and jets two sizes either way.....i ll get em dialed in eventually.....even being off on jetting, these are way more responsive than vm 28 s i have and my 26 s that i had done professionally will be going on ebay....thanks again.....keith

                Comment


                  #9
                  just trying to understand the bs34 s....the rubber "pilot plugs" that i have read about, they actually go inside bowl and plug where pilot jet lives? do they cover pilot adj screws in throat on engine side of carbs?...are they a neccesary component?....excuse my ignorance , but these are new to me and apparently a little more complicated than the vm series.....any input would be greatly appreciated.....thanks in advance.....keith

                  Comment


                    #10
                    the rubber "pilot plugs" that i have read about, they actually go inside bowl and plug where pilot jet lives?
                    Inside the BS carbs there is a well that the pilot jet screws into. The rubber plugs sit in the well and are kept in place by the float bowls. Some people claim they are not necessary, the way I look at it if Mr. Mikuni wanted them left out he wouldn't have added them in the first place.

                    do they cover pilot adj screws in throat on engine side of carbs?
                    The mixture screws are covered by small aluminum plugs so you don't "tamper" with them. These are not the same plugs that are in the float bowls. To properly clean the carbs, these aluminum plugs should be removed.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by almarconi View Post
                      Inside the BS carbs there is a well that the pilot jet screws into. The rubber plugs sit in the well and are kept in place by the float bowls. Some people claim they are not necessary, the way I look at it if Mr. Mikuni wanted them left out he wouldn't have added them in the first place.



                      The mixture screws are covered by small aluminum plugs so you don't "tamper" with them. These are not the same plugs that are in the float bowls. To properly clean the carbs, these aluminum plugs should be removed.




                      thanks for your help and reply......i ve got them at 135 main and 40 pilot and 1 3/4 turns out on mixture screws......still wont idle right, but once it warms up, goes down the road very well....i ve had an idle problem with 3 diff sets of carbs....new boots, cable not kinked,etc....i ve got a used ign advancer on way to rule that out......lots of time and cash into bike....an idle, an idle, my kingdom for an idle!!....lol

                      Comment


                        #12
                        with bs34 s....

                        Comment


                          #13
                          on an enigne that size I would think at least a 45 pilot. stock, most? gs1100 come with 45's. the adjuster screw at the top front of the carb has the most effect on idle.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            gearhead,
                            thanks for the input....thats the second time i ve heard 45 pilot....have them and will put them in this weekend....would 1.5 turns on mixture screws be about right?...i really appreciate everyones input as these carbs have by far shown the most potential....just gotta get em dialed in........with a 45 pilot, what would be the suggested air jet size?...........keith

                            Comment


                              #15
                              i would try 2-3 turns out on the mixture screw.

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