little confused about zip tie method..

[Johnny K]

I have an 82' 850GZ. I tried the zip tie method yesterday to check my valves, but couldn't understand when to put the zip tie in and when to check for clearance. I understand that when I put the zip tie in plug #4 that I can check the intake and exhaust at the same time, but what about the other cylinders? Do I have to insert the zip tie in every spark plug hole to check each cylinder's intake and exhaust clearance? From the tutorial and pics, I thought it would be somewhat simple, but for some reason it has me stumped a little. Thanks for the reply's.
-John-

[tkent02]

You measure clearance without the zip tie, then use the tie to open up the distance so you can remove the shims. Takes a lot of rotating the engine around to use this method. Don't rotate the engine at all with any shim missing.

[Johnny K]

Oh okay. In the pics, it shows how the intake lobe and exhaust lobe are pointed which I understand. Is it the same for the other cylinders as far as their lobe positions?

[tkent02]

Search here for the procedure, there are a few good write ups about it. Better yet, download a free manual and read all about it.

[Steve]

The manual is rather specific about cam positions when checking clearances. It also give a very easy procedure where you set the cams in one position, check the exhaust valves for 1 and 2. Rotate the crankshaft (not the camshaft) 180 degrees, check exhausts 3&4. Rotate the crank another 180, check intakes 1&2, rotate the crank another 180, check intakes 3&4.

Now that you have all your clearances recorded, go back to any cylinder (I like to do them in order, 1 to 4), rotate the crank until the exhaust cam is pushing on the valve. Stick the zip-tie through the plug hole, rotate the crank until the cam lobe is pointing away from the valve. Now you can pull the shim for inspection. Record its number, put it back. Rotate the engine so the cam lobe is pushing on the valve so you can pull out the zip-tie, rotate the engine so you can to the other valve in that cylinder. Continue until all are done. By the way, how are you using a zip-tie to do the intake and exhaust valves at the same time?

As you can see, there is a lot of recording that needs to happen. I just happen to have an Excel spreadsheet that will not only record all those numbers for you, it will also suggest what shim you need, based on the measurements you enter. Just send me an e-mail request, I will reply with the spreadsheet attached. There are over 200 copies of this spreadsheet out there now, and ... would you believe it? No complaints.

.

[BassCliff]

Oh okay. In the pics, it shows how the intake lobe and exhaust lobe are pointed which I understand. Is it the same for the other cylinders as far as their lobe positions?

Hi Mr. Johnny K,

In other words, use the "zip tie method" for removing and installing shims. It has nothing to do with actually measuring the clearances but is a procedure used to swap the parts. Some folks use the zip ties instead of the tappet tool. With the tappet tool you just push the bucket down and extract the shim. Turning the crankshaft is not necessary.

As for lobe positions, another way to state the procedure is this:

A) Position the #1 exhaust lobe pointing forward, parallel with the top of the head. Measure #1 and #2 exhaust clearances.

B) Position the #4 exhaust lobe pointing forward, parallel with the top of the head. Measure #3 and #4 exhaust clearances.

C) Position #1 intake lobe pointing straight up, perpendicular to the top of the head. Measure #1 and #2 intake clearances.

D) Position #4 intake lobe pointing straight up, perpendicular to the top of the head. Measure #3 and #4 intake clearances.

A, B, C, and D can really be done in any order. It just means a little more turning of the crank as opposed to when you measure every 180 degrees. At any time you can use the tappet tool to change a shim (as long as the shim you are changing is not under a lobe that is pointing down). No need to turn the motor and stick anything under a valve.

There's lots of information on my website. Please stop by and help yourself.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Johnny K]

Thanks guys. Steve, I have the spreadsheet because I had asked a while back, thanks. I start at the exhaust lobe pointing forward parallel with the top of the head and then when I insert the zip tie like in the illustration, rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees, the zip tie is loose and can be pulled out. Meaning it didn't grab anything for me to change the shim. I did check the clearances and 5 of them I could not get a .002 to fit. Is this really bad? One was .003 and 2 were .004. I have extra shims from when I did my rings last year. I just wanted to know what size shim I have for each bucket to do some swapping.

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Johnny K,

After taking your measurements, if you want to change the shim, rotate the crankshaft until you see the valve in the open position when looking through the plug hole. Then insert your zip tie and turn the crank until the valve closes on the zip tie. The zip tie will then hold the valve open leaving the shim loose in the bucket for you to remove.

I would urge you to get a set of metric feeler guages. Using the "inches" guages you don't get as fine of measurements. In inches the clearance range is .001 - .003 inches (that's thousandths of inches). When dealing with metric the range is .03mm - .08mm (that's hundredths of millimeters).

The .002 inch feeler gauge is somewhere in the middle of the range. If it doesn't fit then you could be anywhere between no clearance to .05mm. Does a .001 inch gauge fit? Do you have a .001 inch gauge?

I would get a metric feeler gauge set and measure the clearances like they did at the factory. You should be able to find one for less than $10. Keep us informed.

Ed has started an interesting thread about valve clearances:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=141087

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff