factory air screw specs

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  • nathan12
    #1

    factory air screw specs

    So here is the run down:
    1982 gs 1100 gl, 11,000 miles.
    Vance and Hines 4-1
    dynojet stage three, 165 main jets, clip on the needle is third notch down.
    K and N filter in stock air box.
    NGK b8es spark plugs.

    Problem list:
    Air screws on two carbs are stuck at factory postioning, (not sure why) which I failed to pay attention to what exactly the factory was when adjusting the other two to dynojet specs so now I don't know really what to do about that. Would just assume put them all at factory if anyone knows how many turns from snug that is

    Bike has tons of low end, and relatively smooth at speed, but some hesitation. PLugs are black, RICH, should I drop the needles down a notch? would hotter plugs be advised? Am I an idiot for running stage three without PODs? BY the way, I like horsepower.

    Clutch is not handling the extra power. Would new stock plates be ok? any ideas on after market clutches?
    Thanks everyone.
    Nathan
    Tags: None
    • Commodus
      #2
      Originally posted by nathan12
      So here is the run down:
      1982 gs 1100 gl, 11,000 miles.
      Vance and Hines 4-1
      dynojet stage three, 165 main jets, clip on the needle is third notch down.
      K and N filter in stock air box.
      NGK b8es spark plugs.

      Problem list:
      Air screws on two carbs are stuck at factory postioning, (not sure why) which I failed to pay attention to what exactly the factory was when adjusting the other two to dynojet specs so now I don't know really what to do about that. Would just assume put them all at factory if anyone knows how many turns from snug that is

      Bike has tons of low end, and relatively smooth at speed, but some hesitation. PLugs are black, RICH, should I drop the needles down a notch? would hotter plugs be advised? Am I an idiot for running stage three without PODs? BY the way, I like horsepower.

      Clutch is not handling the extra power. Would new stock plates be ok? any ideas on after market clutches?
      Thanks everyone.
      Nathan

      Stage 3 is intended for pods, afaik. Maybe you can make it work without, I guess you'll learn yer jetting. Seems like it would be easier to go to a Stage 1...if you still can.

      You haven't really made much extra power, the clutch should handle it fine. If it's not, there's a maintenance/replacement issue there. Stick to OEM parts, the other stuff tends to have some issues.

        Comment

        • tkent02
          Forum LongTimer
          Past Site Supporter
          • Jan 2006
          • 35571
          • Near South Park
          #3
          Originally posted by Commodus
          Stage 3 is intended for pods, afaik. Maybe you can make it work without, I guess you'll learn yer jetting. Seems like it would be easier to go to a Stage 1...if you still can.

          You haven't really made much extra power, the clutch should handle it fine. If it's not, there's a maintenance/replacement issue there. Stick to OEM parts, the other stuff tends to have some issues.
          The clutch probably only needs springs, unless it has a million miles or a history of drag racing.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

            Comment

            • nathan12
              #4
              Yeah I should have explained....It is running much better now than last year, the petcock was leaking fuel into the vacuum line and causing all sorts of issues. No drag racing, low miles. I ride a lot with an extra person and gear so that is why I like a little extra reserve of power. So springs you say..mmmkay sounds good boys.

                Comment

                • TheCafeKid
                  #5
                  Originally posted by nathan12
                  So here is the run down:
                  1982 gs 1100 gl, 11,000 miles.
                  Vance and Hines 4-1
                  dynojet stage three, 165 main jets, clip on the needle is third notch down.
                  K and N filter in stock air box.
                  NGK b8es spark plugs.

                  Problem list:
                  Air screws on two carbs are stuck at factory postioning, (not sure why) which I failed to pay attention to what exactly the factory was when adjusting the other two to dynojet specs so now I don't know really what to do about that. Would just assume put them all at factory if anyone knows how many turns from snug that is

                  Bike has tons of low end, and relatively smooth at speed, but some hesitation. PLugs are black, RICH, should I drop the needles down a notch? would hotter plugs be advised? Am I an idiot for running stage three without PODs? BY the way, I like horsepower.

                  Clutch is not handling the extra power. Would new stock plates be ok? any ideas on after market clutches?
                  Thanks everyone.
                  Nathan
                  A few things:

                  Set the screws at two turns out from lightly seated. Thats a good starting point and you can work from there. Stage 3 is WAY too rich for not runing pods. Go back to stage one. And, dropping the clip DOWN from the top is actually RICHENING the mixture, as it set the needle HIGHER in the seat, allowing more gas to flow by as the needle comes up. To lean it out, move the clip UP to the forth notch from the bottom. Stage one is pleanty for an aftermarket pipe and a stock airbox or an airbox with a KN drop in filter. Horsepower comes from a PERFECT mix of fuel/air, not just by dumping more gas into the combustion chamber. This is why your plugs are black and sooty. It simply cannot burn all the fuel you're giving it because its not getting enough air (having said this, i DO NOT ADVISE SWITCHING TO PODS ON YOUR BIKE UNLESS YOU WANT TO MAKE YOURSELF CRAZY TRYING TO TUNE THE FLATSPOTS OUT,DYNOJET KIT OR NOT) You're NOT going to notice the difference in HP between a properly tuned bike with a pipe and one with a pipe and pods. We're talking about a couple of ponies. Its just not worth the headache IMO. Also, are you CERTAIN its the clutch that is slipping? The 82 and on shafties have a pretty bad rep for stripping out the hub spline in the wheel because of crappy metal used in production. Its almost a common first upgrade to switch it out for a BRAND NEW ONE that used a superior metal, or to find an older one (79-80) from an 850 or 1000G. They are interchangeable, and made of a much harder alloy. If the teeth are starting to strip, its quite possible that you are confusing this with the clutch slipping. If the TACH shows a massive jump in RPMs combined with this feeling, then its possible your CLUTCH SPRINGS, not the plates, are the problem. 8 out of 10 times, simply replacing the springs cures the clutch slipage. Ive had multiple GSs with stock plates still in them with well over 30K miles and never once changed the plates or fibers. Springs, yes, and it always cured the problem. Hope this helps...

                    Comment

                    • nathan12
                      #6
                      thanks, yeah its the clutch so I will be working on that. the clutch also "jumps" a little at lower rpms when letting it out slightly ...hard to describe, but Its probably the springs

                        Comment

                        • rapidray
                          Forum Guru
                          GSResource Superstar
                          • Oct 2006
                          • 8195
                          • So Cal
                          #7
                          If it feels like the clutch is "jumping" like you say, you may have damaged the splines already. I would pull the rear wheel & at least look. Ray.

                            Comment

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