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Valve adjustment to tight or to loose?

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    Valve adjustment to tight or to loose?

    May be a dumb question, but I was wondering if it is better to stay around the .08mm clearance or to be around .04-.05? I ended up with 3 being in the .085 range, 2 in the .063 range and 3 in the .042 range. Any thoughts?
    This is my first adjustment, and when I started, on only one valve was I able to get a .033mm gauge in there. All the rest had no clearance.
    I can't wait to put it back together and feel the difference!

    #2
    I'd go with it. Call it done.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      The gap closes up with time and what you don't want is zero gap (= valves not sealing properly and burning out). Your gaps are now fine.

      If you don't intend to check your clearances regularly go wide (up to .1 is fine, just makes a bit more ticking noise).
      79 GS1000S
      79 GS1000S (another one)
      80 GSX750
      80 GS550
      80 CB650 cafe racer
      75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
      75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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        #4
        ...and this is what happens to your valves if you don't adjust them.

        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #5
          Hi,

          You're within spec. You can be done if you want. But be sure to check them again in 4000 miles since you have a few that are close to the lower end of spec.

          My smallest feeler gauge is .04mm. If it's a tight fit, or it doesn't fit, I swap the shim to the next smallest size and run at .09mm or .10mm (that's as loose as I'll go). I keep track of my shims and clearances. I try to run them all on the loose side of spec. That way if I can't check them for 6000-7000 miles I don't worry too much.

          Thank you for your indulgence,

          BassCliff

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            #6
            I prefer to keep them at the wider end of the spec. In theory this will keep the valve cooler, since it will spend more timeresting against the valve seat where it can transfer the heat to the head. Probably splitting hairs on this, but that's my dad's theory, and he's a better mechanical engineer than me. On ones that are tighter than the spec range; as long as you can rotate the bucket you probably don't have zero clearance. I would get shims on order, but probably still go riding while waiting for them to show up.
            JP
            1982 GS1100EZ (awaiting resurrection)
            1992 Concours
            2001 GS500 (Dad's old bike)
            2007 FJR

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              #7
              I dunno. I bet there are more valves with <0 clearance than one would think. I just stopped down a full size on mine and I still can't get my smallest feeler in there, so will have to go down another size. I could still rotate the bucket prior to starting all of this, so it must have been zero or less.

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