Catastrophic engine failure (lubrication helps engines)

[donimo]

My book says the "T mark on the R side of the plate", you are on the L side...

[MrZig]

does having the Other" T mark (180* over) make it right? My book has the "Tl lF" one as being TDC, you might me on the exhaust stroke there?

When the other "T" is lined up, arrow #1 is facing forward and correct, but cylinder #1 is at the bottom and cylinder #2 is at TDC. As if it's reversed. Perhaps it is correct after all?

[donimo]

RH cyl is cyl #1

I know that doesnt make sense, but there you go...

didnt catch that in the pic, sorry.

[MrZig]

RH cyl is cyl #1

I know that doesnt make sense, but there you go...

didnt catch that in the pic, sorry.

RH is cyl #1? I always thought the left was #1. Well, if that's the case, then my timing and camshafts are all perfectly OK and my entire engine problem lies elsewhere. At least that is ruled out, now.

Edit: BTW Donimo thanks for all the help with your manual and such. I would be very, very lost without it. If you ever come by I'll buy you a beer or two.

[donimo]

maybe because the Japanese read right to left?

who knows...

PITA though eh?

[mark_vaughn]

Did you check compression yet?

[MrZig]

Did you check compression yet?

No, I havn't done that yet. I'm not sure I should do it with no oil in the engine.

[reddirtrider]

No, I havn't done that yet. I'm not sure I should do it with no oil in the engine.

It won't hurt it. Pull all the plugs and spin it for a couple secs for each reading. Without a load the bearings will be ok.

I'm still interested in seeing what the pistons look like.

[mark_vaughn]

No, I havn't done that yet. I'm not sure I should do it with no oil in the engine.

If you don't hear any scraping when you turn it over by hand then I would do it. It will tell you more than anything without pulling the head.
Pour a little oil over the cams and even some in the chamber (but this will make your compression higher than it actually is), turn it over by hand a few times to coat everything before testing with the starter.

[MrZig]

Turns out the only compression gauge I have is from the 1970s. It doesn't even screw in, just has a rubber bottom. I know I have some compression because it would pop it out and hiss loudly under the compression stroke. Unfortunately it didn't give me any numbers because I guess it's just too old/broken.

I'll try and find one for further testing. It would be nice to have the numbers.

Quick question, what size are the spark plug holes/threads?

[donimo]

12mm I think.

[rcp]

Quick question, what size are the spark plug holes/threads?

Check your spark plugs against this NGK plug chart

If the plugs begin with B, then they're 14mm. My 1000s are 14mm, but I'm unfamiliar with the smaller GS engines.

Canadian Tire has one or two compression tester sets with the right adapters, but most of their models don't. Bring your plugs along to check. Any auto parts store should be able to provide you with one too.

- Richard

[duaneage]

I think you had a lean out condition caused either by the petcock or clogged screen. I see the petcock is new, did you replace the vacuum line to it? Is it tight?

Do you have a fuel filter? These are OK as long as they are small. Bigger filters cause vapor lock because there is no fuel pressure to overcome the natural gas buildup.

If you have good compression consider yourself lucky. Hot pistons are not a good idea.

[MrZig]

New petcock, no fuel filter, vacuum line is in good condition.

I took the plugs out and they aren't pitch white. They have some brown to them, so I think if it was lean enough to seize my engine they would be pretty melted.

[duaneage]

Not necessarily. As soon as it idled down the plugs would color back up. It's sounds (from your description) like lean out, the only way to know for sure would be to cut the engine when it occurred and pull a plug. Surface temperature is another indication, those portable infrared scanners are wonderful diag tools for this. If it is above 250 or 275 it's probably running lean. YMMV of course.