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    #1

    Electrical issues

    Hi Folks,
    I Have an 82 GS1100E that I Bought 3 Years ago. Has Had electrical/ Charging system problems since I bought it. The first 2 years it was only ridden on short trips because it was blowing the main fuse and leaving me stranded. Last year at the beginning of the season I tore the bike down to find the problem and found the R/R connector melted and the R/R faulty. Replaced the R/R and connector and connectors for the stator (showed signs of excessive heat also) stator tested good. Also replaced the battery and cleaned and checked all other electrical connectors on the bike and found no other problems. Rode bike all season approx. 1000 miles with no problems. Parked the bike for about 3 months (live in Colorado).

    When I tried to start the bike this season battery was dead and would not take a charge. Replaced the battery again and checked the charging system to find no charge.

    Tested the charging system and found faulty R/R again (open circuits on all 3 stator leads and red to black). Stator still tests good (83 to 84 volts on all 3 legs at 5000 RPM and .5 ohms on all 3 legs and no continuity to the engine case).

    Also has a green wire that has been spliced and connected to the positive battery post (not a factory connector) that has a small draw 200ma that when disconnected causes ths battery light to stay on. Can not find this wire in the wiring diagram. Have the factory Suzuki service manual.

    Am I missing something or is it just poor quality parts/ common GS issues.

    I am going to order an Electrosport R/R as has been suggested in the stator pages but would like to be sure I dont fry another R/R.

    Sorry for such a long post just wanted to provide all possible info.

    This is a very nice bike in almost showroom condition with only 11000 miles on it. Love riding it and would like to be able to depend on it.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
    Tags: None
    #2
    is the r/r stock or a honda r/r?
    1979 GS850G
    2004 SV650N track bike
    2005 TT-R125 pit bike
    LRRS #246 / Northeast Cycles / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersport

    http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k443/tas850g/

    Comment

      #3
      R/R is aftermarket stock.

      Thanks for the quick reply.

      Comment

        #4
        Come on now it is against forum rules to come on here saying you have a show room 82 1100EZ with 11,000 miles and not provide any pics

        Ok maybe not but it should be .

        What tests are you doing to deduce that the R/R is bad?

        Put the R/R back in and do the following measurements


        A1.) What are you voltages across the battery at idle and 4000 RPM.

        Then do these measurements.


        Could also be the positive lead going through the fuse box. Measure the following voltages.

        B1.) R/R (+) to Battery (+) at 4000 RPM should be 0.25V no more that 0.5V


        B2.) R/R (-) to Battery (-) at 4000 RPM should be 0.25V no more that 0.5V

        #B1 will fail is there is excessive corrosion and resistance in the fuse box.
        #B2 is an issue with corrosion on the battery grounds

        Comment

          #5
          Man you guys are fast.

          Just found this site and will pots pics as soon as I get the bike back together.

          Approx 12.4 volts at the battery and the output lead from r/r at any RPM.

          Have not done voltage drop tests yet but have checked and cleaned all connections on the bike from headlight to taillight.

          Comment

            #6
            cant help unless you do the other measurements.

            I'm assuming that green wire you speak of is one of 6 coming off the R/R and it is going right to the plus side of the battery?

            Comment

              #7
              I think the green wire is the battery water level sensor bypass.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment

                #8
                He11 yeah they are

                Originally posted by techbill61 View Post
                Man you guys are fast.

                Just found this site and will pots pics as soon as I get the bike back together.

                Approx 12.4 volts at the battery and the output lead from r/r at any RPM.

                Have not done voltage drop tests yet but have checked and cleaned all connections on the bike from headlight to taillight.

                Yeah it won't take long before YOU to are checking this site EVERY time you log on to the internet. AND I don't even know anything (yet MUCH more than I did the first time I came here!). THESE folks are GREAT and know EVERYTHING!!!!!! Just ask'em! The best site I have found. I would try to help but have been reading Stator papers all night and my brain hurts. (and still don't know anything!). All will be well.

                Thanks,
                Deivets Cetdar

                Comment

                  #9
                  The green wire breaks out of the main wiring harness and has been spliced. I think it is supposed to be an electrolite level sensor but am not sure.

                  Will be doing the voltage drop tests tomorrow. Have tested the r/r according to the factory repair manual and the tests on the stator pages and have open circuits on all three stator wires and the positive output from the r/r and ground on the r/r. The r/r has a good ground ( .001 ohms from the r/r connection to the battery neg post) and the pos, output wire also tests good ( .002 ohms from the connector the pos batt post).

                  When I replaced the r/r last year I had 14.2 volts at the battery at 5000 RPM.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    I think the green wire is the battery water level sensor bypass
                    .

                    lets keep playing 29 questions till we get a picture.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                      .

                      lets keep playing 29 questions till we get a picture.
                      What is your favorite color?
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by techbill61 View Post
                        The green wire breaks out of the main wiring harness and has been spliced. I think it is supposed to be an electrolite level sensor but am not sure.

                        Will be doing the voltage drop tests tomorrow. Have tested the r/r according to the factory repair manual and the tests on the stator pages and have open circuits on all three stator wires and the positive output from the r/r and ground on the r/r. The r/r has a good ground ( .001 ohms from the r/r connection to the battery neg post) and the pos, output wire also tests good ( .002 ohms from the connector the pos batt post).

                        When I replaced the r/r last year I had 14.2 volts at the battery at 5000 RPM.
                        Sorry to have to ask this but when you read .001 ohms I have to ask if you are on the right scale. You must have a very very good ohm meter (better than mine which only goes to .01 ohm resolution)

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I am an auto mechanic and have a Blue Point meter (made by fluke) made for testing automotive computer components (very expensive) dont really trust readings that precise but assume connections are probably good.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Greetings and Salutations!!

                            Hi Mr. techbill61,

                            If you haven't already, I would encourage you to clean every electrical connection and ground on the entire bike, from headlight bucket to tail light including the fuse box and ignition switch. If your r/r ground is still connected to the battery box, move it to a good, clean frame ground, or even directly to the negative post of the battery. Check my website for lots of additional information. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

                            Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

                            Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

                            Thank you for your indulgence,

                            BassCliff

                            Comment

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