GS1100 performance rebuild questions
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woodman
GS1100 performance rebuild questions
What is the max overbore on a street stock 16 valve motor you would advise ? Should I get the crank welded & rebuilt ? This is a stock 80 1100E model with 17,000 miles and will remain stock except 4-1 V&H pipe & 36mm 1150 carbs at most with the 10.25 rebuild pistons. No drag racing except maybe some roll on stuff. Dont want a racer just a good running near stocker. This is just a heallthy near resto stocker. Thanks for any advice. I have a spare 82 motor & would redo it and keep the original oneTags: None -
2 main things are clutch & crank. "82" or "83" model left end of crank & matching rotor, straight cut primary gear on crank, weld crank. Good clutch basket (hub) w/ straight cut gear, heavy springs, heavy backing plate & good rivets. 1148 pistons @ 10 to 1 compression, maybe a set "83" cams, or after mkt drop in's, set cams lobe centers @ 104 int. & 107 ex. Just my opinion, & what I would do if doing it again.1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100 -
The max bore you can go on stock 1100 sleeves is 75mm which is an 1166. I would do the 1166 piston kit, Have the crank welded by either John Pearson at Pearson Racing or Stan Gardner at GRC. The ONLY 2 places in the country I would let touch one of my cranks. For what YOU are doing, you won't need the straight cut gears or the big left end. Next, since you are NOT building a DRAG motor would be 750 oil pump gears, a rebuild kit on the clutch hub with the heavy backing plate & springs, APE clutch hub nut, APE case & cylinder studs, APE manual cam chain tensioner, Tsubaki cam chain, oil cooler, .348 WEB cams or .355 G-4 Cam Motion cams, adjustable cam sprockets, GOOD ignition system with coils & wires, & a top end oiler wouldn't hurt. For the head I would do a "radiused" valve job with new seals & springs for those cams & a clean up & blending of the ports to the valve seats. This combo should make between 120 & 130 HP at the rear wheel if you put some better carbs on it than the stock 1150 carbs. WITH the 1150 carbs probably only 115-120 at the wheel. I have LOTS of parts & am a dealer for all the parts you would need to do the build. Let me know if I can help, Ray.Comment
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0.340's are a little more docile , but the .348 are supposed to be perfectly street-able. With the 0.340's I getting about 32 mpg, so I assume going to the .348/.355 it would drop further. Were talking about if you need to dip under 10 sec in the quarter mile here.348 WEB cams or .355 G-4 Cam Motion cams,
The head work is very important as Ray suggests.
more back ground info:
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woodman
Who would use reccommend for the machine work, APE ? Do they block plate hone them ? My 80 spun the rotor on the crank, Im going to fix that with permatex green sleeve & bearing retainer and was thinking of using the good rotor off the 82. The 82 motor is froze so I need to check it out and see if its usable. Ill get back to you when Im ready. Thanks very much for the adviceComment
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woodman
The "just buy a new bike "theory is fine unless youre 65 with a bad back and cant ride something made for a 20 year old kid for more then 5 minutes. Funny the people that fit them cant afford the bike or insurance and the people who can cant ride them. Hayabusas dont fit me, Ive tried them ! I have a pretty stout sleeved 1105 Superbike Mike built KZ to tie me over that was built in 76.Comment
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I recommend NOT using the Cometic MLS (Multi Layers Stainless) head gasket that will come with the Wiseco 1168 cc kit.
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mriddle
I have bought from this guy (EBAYER) .. good to deal with.
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woodman
Why is it that they show 2 different rotor puller sizes for GS1100s. My 80 measures 35mm. Did they change sizes on later ones ?Comment
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woodman
Well both my untouched original 80 and my 82 with a build date of 2/82 measure 35mm. Im confused !Comment
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Guest
The big end crank really got introduced in 83. There are a few 82s with it at the end of the building year.Comment
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woodman
I was talking about the threads on the rotor that the puller screws on to. I thought they were saying theres 2 different pullers. I know about the crank snouts, sorryComment
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