GS1100GK valve adj - did I just bend the valves? ARRGGGHH!

[R-Tru-D2]

Working on valve adjustment for my 82 GS1100GK - first time on a shim under bucket type adjustment. I've got the Clymer manual - followed all instructions except "rotate in a CLOCKWISE direction." I just rotated whichever direction I needed to in order to get the lobe to line up right the easiest. Sometimes clockwise, sometimes counter.

I removed all the shims, made a map of the thicknesses on a piece of paper, swapped a few to get some within clearance, replaced them all, and now everything's messed up. Most all of the valves are out of spec (<.02 mm). I re-read the Clymer manual, and noticed the "CLOCKWISE" notation, and felt sick. I came here and searched the board, and noticed that someone mentioned that you can bend the valves if you rotate the wrong way.

Did I just buy myself a new set of valves? The bad part is, I'm trying to get this bike ready to sell to a friend. Don't know if I can afford to buy new valves and still break even. ARRGGHH!

Respond here, and if you're willing to call and give me immediate help, I could use it - I'll be out in the shed figuring out if I can save this one. Wish I had saved that spare GS1100GL head instead of selling it a few months ago.

Brian Morgan
618-664-3905

[Anonymous]

I don't see how you could have bent your valves unless you started your engine with them REALLY badly adjusted. Even then, you'd probably have to skip the cam chain a bit to touch a piston with your valve. It doesn't sound like you even put the engine back together yet. I only have experience with the screw type adjustable valves though.

Just start over, follow your shop manual instructions exactly and you shouldn't go far wrong.

[R-Tru-D2]

More problems

Thanks for the reply (and thanks to the person who called a few hours ago - that was good of you to do that).

Now that my mind is set at ease, I've got another nagging issue with this valve adjustment. Some of the valves are now registering different clearances at different times. In other words, one valve might register as .02mm - I then rotate the engine (clockwise, of course!), and on the next rotation, it might measure .05mm. Rotate again a few times, and it's at .02mm again. Lobe is as close to perpendicular to the shim as I can gauge with my eye. This is happening on about 3 or 4 valves. Not sure what to do here.

Also, as long as the spark plug wires are removed, is it ok to use the starter to rotate the engine? I think that would be a lot easier than wrenching it. The engine would still be considered "cold" then, wouldn't it?

[cbxchris]

When yopu rotated the engine the wrong way I assume you felt no resistance? It is easier to bend them than anyone would believe. With the valve tool you are holding that valve open a lot at top dead center if you turned the wrong way. Its easy to check...do a leak down. I once took a cbx into a honda dealership(except for the tire mess I got into recently never been back to a dealer for NOTHING.)...it just didn`t run quite like it did before I took it. Yeap the mechanic had turned the engine the wrong way and bent a couple exhaust valves on one cylinder. I repaired it myself. Good luck and I hope all is well with your engine.

[cbxchris]

Personally I do not like to use the starter...some do it including dealership mechanics. It sounds like you are not getting your lobes exactly the same everytime. You can use the timing marks on the ignition sometimes for reference. I have also had valves jump around like that if they are carboned bad...and I hate to say it also when they were bent.

[saaz]

I only ever use a ring spanner to turn the motor..you can feel it better and it is more precise..besides which if there is any problem turning it you can feel it before it does damage.