Learning things about R/Rs

[spyug]

Well as I've been messing about all week on my charging issues I've been doing a lot of reading. Last night I was going over some stuff on a couple of the Honda sites as I'm thinking about swapping out my R/R which seems to be a tad wonky, to one of the Hondas. Imagine my surprise when lots of the Honda boys are moaning about their trashy R/Rs and looking to replace them mostly with Yammie crap Now I'm cornfuzzed once agin.

Quite a few of the threads talk about the newer Shindengen units as fitted to the newer FJRs and R1s. There is actually a lot of talk about units like these and others with higher ratings (i.e 50amp or better) and how the newer units fitted with MOSFET chips put out more consistant voltage over the rev range.

Another interesting piece of information was that older R/Rs using SCR/shunts naturally produce less voltage as the revs increase. This is the exact symptom that I am currently seeing. So that explains that.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had retrofitted any of the newer R/R and how well it works.

Checking e-bay there quite a few compnies selling brand new R/rs but they are hellish expensive so I doubt I'll be getting one of those anytime soon but if I stumble over one I'll snag it.

Interesting stuff this electronics

Cheers all,
Spyug

[Larry D]

You said you've been reading, have you read this one ? Alot of info there.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=134690

[Steve]

Sorry, but we have never heard such nonsense.

Click here to see how little we have heard.

.

[bonanzadave]

lots of the Honda boys are moaning about their trashy R/Rs

You should hear the Bombardier crowd. My friend has an Outlander 800 quad that has never charged since he got it new. Always has a battery tender on it. Dealer wont do squat to fix it.

[rustybronco]

I'm thinking about swapping out my R/R which seems to be a tad wonky, to one of the Hondas. Imagine my surprise when lots of the Honda boys are moaning about their trashy R/Rs and looking to replace them mostly with Yammie crap Now I'm cornfuzzed once agin.

the Virago 920 that I am working on has a shindengen R/R on it the same as the Honda's.

Quite a few of the threads talk about the newer Shindengen units as fitted to the newer FJRs and R1s. There is actually a lot of talk about units like these and others with higher ratings (i.e 50amp or better) and how the newer units fitted with MOSFET chips put out more consistant voltage over the rev range.

You probably don't need to use the newer FET style R/R's. The Honda R/R's will be more than adequate for most peoples needs, although wanting the very best is a whole different story!

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had retrofitted any of the newer R/R and how well it works.

I have installed one, but I have yet to start it after the FET R/R was installed. (nor the shindengen for that matter, long story...)

Interesting stuff this electronics

Yes it is...

Cheers all,
Spyug[/QUOTE]

[spyug]

Thanks for posting the list guys. I had indeed read that thread a while back and had been searching for it again the last few days but couldn't turn it up. I wanted to pull off the numbers of those units that are suitable so I can root through the big box of R/Rs at my wreckers. I think I'd like to score one of those 40/45 or 50A units

I also now remember reading about the FET controlled R/Rs but at the time it didn't register as I wasn't experiencing issues at that time.

I'm still thinking of changing out the fuse block. The one I picked up would do in a pinch but its not a good fit for the space available. I notice Bike Bandit show it on their fiche so if I can't find something locally I might order one.

One of these days I'll get this working the way its supposed to.

Cheers all,
Spyug

[Steve]

You wanna splurge on a really NICE fuse block?

Check out Fuzeblock. Kinda pricey at $80, but it has 6 circuits that you can determine whether they are live all the time or only live with the key.

.

[tas850g]

Steve,

Link doesn't seem to be working.

[ryonker]

Steve,

Link doesn't seem to be working.

Just worked for me. Wow, what a wealth of info!

I just added it to my subscribed threads.

Rick

[Steve]

Hey, Steve. The link doesn't work for me, either. Looks like you slipped off the CTRL key and only pushed 'v'

- JC

Sorry about that, you are quite correct. It's fixed now.

.

[Steve]

Just worked for me. Wow, what a wealth of info!

I just added it to my subscribed threads.

Rick

Uhh, Rick, there were two links. The first one, the one you just subscribed to, worked well.
The second one is the one that had problems, but it's fixed now.

.

[TheCafeKid]

"Our stuff blows, so your stuff doesnt..." Gottalove the tag line..

[posplayr]

There is an even better one from Germany that includes various functions like parking light flashers, brake light and head lamp modulators all in the same unit. It was about $250 so beyond most budgets Don't have a link at the moment.

Pos

[Steve]

Find that link, if you can. For all those features, it sounds like it might be worth the price.

A decent headlight modulator is $85 or more.
A decent brake light modulator is $70-110.
The Fuzeblock is $70.
Add assorted relays, wiring and what not (especially the what not) and it adds up quickly.

.

[posplayr]

Steve,
OK I dug it up
Jim

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1023671&postcount=2

http://www.motogadget.com/

http://www.motogadget.com/us/frameset.html

Look for M-unit.
I think i lied about the headlamp modulator, it does the taillight though. 275 Euros