Rookie makes dumb mistake-kills carb

**TheCafeKid** · 07-29-2009, 07:38 PM

You'll only be able to find old stuff.

**BassCliff** · 07-29-2009, 07:46 PM

Hi Mr. hakuin,

In this forum, put a note in the "Parts Wanted" section, check the "Parts for Sale" section. Also check ebay and craigslist for bikes being parted out. Used carb bodies can still be had. Clean 'em, jet 'em, and you're good to go.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

**TheCafeKid** · 07-29-2009, 09:10 PM

You will also need to make sure you get the correct body. They arent the same, each one is slightly different and designed to be in its specific place in the rack.

**hakuin** · 07-29-2009, 09:17 PM

Fb9 is offering to assist with a spare #1 carb...can't get much better than that!!

**seuadr** · 07-29-2009, 09:18 PM

what about tigging in a spot of aluminum to fill the hole?

**SqDancerLynn1** · 07-29-2009, 10:40 PM

Get a copper rod, cut a piece off and press into the hole

**Guest** · 07-30-2009, 12:05 AM

I may have a #1. Let me look

**duaneage** · 07-30-2009, 12:07 AM

You might be able to JB weld it back on, it's not a high stress part and is also not immersed in Gasoline. Replacement would be better but in a pinch it could be repaired.

**rustybronco** · 07-30-2009, 07:13 AM

Originally posted by hakuin

I sheared off a projecting cast area on the #1 carb (slipped in the vise). It's a shame, as I thought everything was snugged-up well.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...1/DSCF5912.jpg

That is the #1 carb, just leave it alone. that passage is plugged off, just the same as the fuel passage is plugged (not drilled through) on that carb.

**sachsaca** · 07-30-2009, 08:33 AM

There is a product called liquid metal, you mix in a liquid into a heavy paste and scoop out what your gonna use, it is wickedly strong and looks like aluminum when finished. The company "Fastenal" carries it and maybe some others.

**hakuin** · 08-02-2009, 09:02 PM

Originally posted by rustybronco

That is the #1 carb, just leave it alone. that passage is plugged off, just the same as the fuel passage is plugged (not drilled through) on that carb.

No, the hole runs into the float bowl. Must be plugged, and if I can get away with a liquid metal compound, I'll probably try that first.

As an aside, the second carb's screws came loose w/o any trauma. I appreciate all the helpful suggestions. I may be getting a #1 carb soon, and in the meantime, will try to fix what I broke.

The forumites here are without peer for help and knowedge!

**rustybronco** · 08-02-2009, 09:12 PM

Originally posted by hakuin

No, the hole runs into the float bowl. Must be plugged, and if I can get away with a liquid metal compound, I'll probably try that first.

and correct you are... I should have looked AT the hole in the body. (DUH) not just thought about the casting.

**hakuin** · 08-09-2009, 06:15 PM

I used JB Weld, and so far, so good. I'll know more when it is reassembled and holding fuel in the bowl. It holds water without seepage now, though.

**atvpyrofreak** · 08-09-2009, 10:55 PM

Glad to hear you got it patched up! If your gonna be doing any work on these old UJM's you might wanna pick yourself up a set of JIS Screwdrivers as they are the proper tool to use when removing those suborn old carb screws.

More info here:

300 Multiple Choices

http://cycleorings.com/phillips.html

Purchase here:

IKASWEBSHOP.com -- HOZAN JIS Screwdriver Set (4 drivers)

http://ikaswebshop.com/hojisscset4d.html

Or here:

http://www.rjrcooltools.com/vessel.cfm