1980 GS850GL problem

[EJMAMMO]

Hey All,
I was doing some of Mr. Bwringer's and others fix-ups on a 80 GS850GL yesterday and prior to it was running fine, (other than the usual stumbling etc from pods, which I am fixing as well.) So I did the Tach oil leak fix, and the cam adjuster oil leak fix, and replaced the o-rings for the intake. Well, I got it back together, and now it only idles, and won't stay running? I have double checked everything, and can't see any odvious, the carbs or not touched. The only thing I can think of is the cam adjuster is some how wrong. I followed the directions, but got a little confused on the exterior spring, and which direction is was to go. The chilton manual sounds just the opposite of the tutorial. It did make the popping sound when the retaining screw was released? Any ideas? Maybe it ran with a bunch of intake leaks and now doesn't know what to do Thanks.

[Dogma]

The exterior spring is meant to turn the knob into the body of the tensioner, to the right, I believe. It turns into the tensioner to prevent the spring loaded pin from backing away from the cam chain, by applying force against the sloped end of the pin. I'm not sure you'd be able to hear any cam chain noise if this is backwards, but it might be possible for one of the cams to skip a tooth and throw off your timing. This would also be possible if you had turned the motor over while the tensioner was out.

I wouldn't run the engine again until you know that the tensioner was working correctly the entire time. If the cam timing gets far enough out, the valves can collide with the pistons. I'm sure you can image that's bad. With your collection, I guess you already knew that.

I know from recent experience that incorrectly timed intake cam can kill power. Just skipping one tooth killed all power over about 3000 rpm. I don't know what 2 teeth might do. The Chilton manual should explain how to check cam timing if you decide it is in doubt. If Chilton's isn't clear, go here to download a factory service manual. It's near the top of the page.

If everything with the cam chain and timing turns out to be OK, then you'll need to hear from someone with more carb experience.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

So you took the carbs off, took the intake boots off to replace the intake boot O-rings. While the carbs were off you serviced the cam chain tensioner. Somewhere in there you replaced the seals for the tach gear. Then put it all back together. Nice work.

Have you put the airbox back on yet? On the carbs, are throttle and clutch linkages connected properly? Are the boots securely connected to the carbs? Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Guest]

Maybe it ran with a bunch of intake leaks and now doesn't know what to do.

may well be the case!

also, check that the carbs are a snug fit on the intake rubbers.

try adding choke, that may help tell you if the carbs needs adjusting.

but do make sure that the tensioner works correctly first

[EJMAMMO]

Thanks all for the replies, Sorry I was computerless for the weekend. I ended up getting the bike running the same as prior to disassembly, so I don't know if it was just needing to clean out the cobwebs, from cleaning or what. However, I still have a few questions you all posed for me.

1. First with the spring, if I follow Bwringers directions, when assembling you push in on the plunger with the tensioner turned-in to the right, clockwise, and then secure setscrew. Then you install and release setscrew which then forced the external spring to turn left, counterclockwise and let the plunger loose. This sounds opposite of Dogma, which should turn right? So which way should tension from the external spring be, to the right or left? I didn't run it long so hopefully didn't screw anything up. Will jumping 1 or 2 teeth show in the ignition timing?
2. I didn't put anything on the intake boot o-rings, ie grease, etc...does that matter? Should have read directions more carefully.
3. Where is anyone getting airbox boots for $28 as posted? Is $10-12 each more like it?

[BassCliff]

Hi,

www.partshark.com has the best prices on air intake boots. Some folks use a little lubricant just to make the carb throats easier to push in. If your cam chain jumped a tooth or two you'd know it. It'll run like poo poo.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Dogma]

1. Follow BWringers directions on the tensioner. I was going from memory on the direction of rotation.

Ignition timing is off the crank, under that cover on the right that you take off to turn the crank with a wrench. So, it won't show there. It'll just be a gutless wonder.

2. Yer good.

3. $9.69 at PartShark If you can't have somone sign for the package, you need to give these guys instructions that they are not to require a signature when you place the order. IIRC there is a place for notes or instructions on the form when you order on-line. I work at home, so I just sign when it gets here.

[EJMAMMO]

Now that I think of it, when I released setscrew, it spun to the left, but now if I turn it left and let go, it spins to the right. I was just reading the manual for checking that it is working, so I will give that a go tonight. Oh and by the way, I am embarrassed to say that I believe the initial problem was a kinked fuel line.....but I learned some new stuff as well so thanks all. Now to get those airbox parts and put together for some smooth running.

[Dogma]

Not a total loss, you got some learning and preventive maintenance done. Last time I chased the wrong problem, I ended up with the head and cylinders off. Long story.