1150 upgrade help

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  • Guest

    #1

    1150 upgrade help

    I have been upgrading my GS1100E with a 1150 front end and an 1150 rear wheel.
    On the rear end I have run into a couple of issues.
    The torque link (the thing that keeps the rear caliper from moving) is definetly running into the tire. Is it best to cave in the area that is touching the tire or is there a better thing to do? The 1100E rear caliper doesn't line up properly, but I think a spacer should fix that issue.


    Thanks,
    ~John
    Last edited by Guest; 09-12-2009, 12:07 PM.
  • TheCafeKid

    #2
    Originally posted by morpheus666
    I have been upgrading my GS1100E with a 1150 front end and an 1150 rear wheel.
    On the rear end I have run into a couple of issues.
    The torque link (the thing that keeps the rear caliper from moving) is definetly running into the tire. Is it best to cave in the area that is touching the tire or is there a better thing to do? The 1100E rear caliper doesn't line up properly, but I think a spacer should fix that issue.
    I need to find a shorter bleeder also. I had to remove it to get the caliper back on.

    Thanks,
    ~John
    You need the torque arm from the 1150, or have yours modified to work. I wouldnt suggest smashing it to get it to clear, as that would simply weaken it as well, and, as its a torque arm, its designed to keep the caliper from moving forward with the rotor when the break is applied. You smash it down, it might simply fold right there. You might get ahold of Blowerbike, i've seen he has a small collection of modified torque arms that will probably do the trick. BTW, Im interested in seeing a pic of your 1150 forks on an 1100E...How much taller did they make the front end sit? Ive been curious about possibly trying this myself...Did you retain the stock 19" front or use the 16" from the 1150? My though in doing this was to use the stock 1100 front, as i hate that stupid little 16.. But I was woried the longer forks would be a problem in the end...

    Comment

    • Guest

      #3
      There are some pics in my album. I was told by a couple of people that I needed to use an 1150 wheel so I did.
      I'll see about finding an 1150 torque bar. I think I have a workaround though. If I get a longer bolt, I noticed I can move bar over just a bit and it clears the tire. I would need to add spacers to keep the bar in place.
      Last edited by Guest; 09-12-2009, 12:06 PM.

      Comment

      • rapidray
        Forum Guru
        GSResource Superstar
        • Oct 2006
        • 8195
        • So Cal

        #4
        You can "dimple" your torque bar where needed to get clearance without having any issues with strength. Ray.

        Comment

        • TheCafeKid

          #5
          Originally posted by morpheus666
          There are some pics in my album. I was told by a couple of people that I needed to use an 1150 wheel so I did.
          I'll see about finding an 1150 torque bar. I think I have a workaround though. If I get a longer bolt, I noticed I can move bar over just a bit and it clears the tire. I would need to add spacers to keep the bar in place.
          That would work too...Just remember the sprockets need to be in line, and the wheels need to be in line... So, whatever you have to shift to make that work is fine, so long as it doesnt bind.

          Comment

          • Guest

            #6
            The torque arm from the 1150 does not fit at all.


            Originally posted by TheCafeKid
            You need the torque arm from the 1150, or have yours modified to work. I wouldnt suggest smashing it to get it to clear, as that would simply weaken it as well, and, as its a torque arm, its designed to keep the caliper from moving forward with the rotor when the break is applied. You smash it down, it might simply fold right there. You might get ahold of Blowerbike, i've seen he has a small collection of modified torque arms that will probably do the trick. BTW, Im interested in seeing a pic of your 1150 forks on an 1100E...How much taller did they make the front end sit? Ive been curious about possibly trying this myself...Did you retain the stock 19" front or use the 16" from the 1150? My though in doing this was to use the stock 1100 front, as i hate that stupid little 16.. But I was woried the longer forks would be a problem in the end...

            Comment

            • blowerbike
              Forum Guru
              GSResource Superstar
              • Aug 2008
              • 7057
              • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

              #7
              you are correct..
              josh got an old school NOS extended brake stay from me that is offset.
              worked perfect.
              this info doesn't help you i know but the crimping of the factory arm for clearance will work for sure.

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                Originally posted by blowerbike
                you are correct..
                josh got an old school NOS extended brake stay from me that is offset.
                worked perfect.
                Got any more of those?

                Comment

                • blowerbike
                  Forum Guru
                  GSResource Superstar
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 7057
                  • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

                  #9
                  Originally posted by renobruce
                  Got any more of those?
                  sure don't.
                  there was one for sale on this site months ago...new in the pack.
                  they was offered by circycle 15 or so years ago...a couple inches longer/offset/and chromed....keep your eyes open on ebay maybe.

                  Comment

                  • anthonygs1000

                    #10
                    I used upper fork tubes from a 1983 gs1100 in the bottoms of 1150's they are shorter and worked fine

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