Weird charging problems

Psyguy,
Do you mean the seperate inline fuse you fitted and carries all the current from the Regulator directly to the battery? If so then that fuse should be larger than the maximum current that the R/R can push out on that wire.

10A is a bit low, if the charging system can push up to 15 amps via that fuse then that fuse should be 20A, even a 15A fuse is then border line.

Hope this is your last hurdle!

[psyguy]

New stator

the new stator from rick's arrived today and i installed it and tested it immediately.

tested at 2000rpm (charging measured at the battery):
- headlight OFF = 14.8V
- headlight ON = voltage jumped to 15.6V, then after a few seconds the 10A in-line fuse on the RR+ wire burnt out.


so, do you think there still might be a problem somewhere or do i just need a bigger fuse?


i measured the total current load when the headlight is on and the engine running and it came to 8A so i was a bit surprised that a 10A fuse poped out so soon, but i don't really know much



the rest of the system is as follows:

• the battery has been tested by a car electritian and it is ok for voltage, load test and electrolitye specific gravity
• all the relevant connections and wires are new
• RR is a honda 6-wire model from duaneage, and it is wired directly to the battery with the sense wire spliced into the main switched wire

Fair enough mate.
Is the Rick's one a higher output than stock?

Hi KiwiGS and Psy.
I seem to remember when i bought my Electrosport Stator that their website mentioned a 20% increase in charging power overs stock (for the GS1000 model P/N ESG020).

They list the GS850G as P/N ESG010 so not sure the differences.

It looks to be reasonably good quality and charges perfectly. I also bought a new RR from them at the same time and ran a wire direct to the battery as suggested in the Stator pages.

RGDS

[psyguy]

thanks andrew... mate

i have just ordered a new stator from rick's.

i guess it might take a while for me to get over the $40 shipping, eh

psyguy,
holy jezu man ('mate' i guess to translate - go AllBlacks!) I am experiencing a somewhat similar problem, but nowhere NEAR the ordeal you have gone through (I read your whole thread several time). Here is mine in case you can/want to weigh in.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=149740

My point to even post here (as I can add nowhere near the knowledge/value that guys like Matchless, Steve, KiwiGS, etc, etc can) is this.

Asyou have gone through the trouble to tilt bike, take cover off, and eyeball stator (which I am dreading and hope i do not have to do), why not think about replacing it EVEN IF it didn't look "suspect" (which of course it did)?

My thinking is, and I know a couple hundred bucks is real money, but our bikes are old anyway so it would well worth it to replace with new becasue at this point you have invested so much time and have faced so much aggrevation etc, that it would worth the $$ to "KNOW" that, if the problem persists (I sincerely hope not), it it NOT due to stator.

BTW, BikeCliff's site has an excellent pictoral/write up on replacing stator on his GS850....might be helpful to you.

Good luck, let us know what you do and how it works out!

thanks. i think i'll pass on doing this myself, already have other projects asking more of my time...

Yes for that you will need a lot of time.. and patience. Our rewinders are not interested and I now know why!
Hope you find one for a reasonable price soon.
Keep well.

[psyguy]

psyguy,
PM me if you want a fairly complete guide on rewinding your stator
Keep well

thanks. i think i'll pass on doing this myself, already have other projects asking more of my time...

[psyguy]

Is the Rick's one a higher output than stock?

dunno. i asked up here about rewinding it for a higher output but they recon because the original stator is so tightly packed that they could not up it by more than 5%.

but as matchless suggested even the original should be able to put through 15amps and with the total draw on the bike being 7 or so amps it should be plenty now that i have an upgraded RR. i hope, that is

psyguy,
PM me if you want a fairly complete guide on rewinding your stator
Keep well

i have contacted couple of places in auckland and they want NZ$220 with no warranty given.
rick's motorsport new stator incl shipping from the usa comes to NZ$250

may go for the new one after all...

Fair enough mate.
Is the Rick's one a higher output than stock?

[psyguy]

You should have plenty of places up there to rewind that stator.
If you cant find anyone I could ask these guys for a price.
Cheers

i have contacted couple of places in auckland and they want NZ$220 with no warranty given.
rick's motorsport new stator incl shipping from the usa comes to NZ$250

may go for the new one after all...

You should have plenty of places up there to rewind that stator.
If you cant find anyone I could ask these guys for a price.
Cheers

[psyguy]

battery ok

i have taken the battery to the car electritian and it checked all rigth for voltage, load test and electrolyte specific gravity.

i am planning to replace the stator next and will post the results here.
it may take a while though as i need to see if there may be anyone locally who can rewind the stator - the new one would cost me US$140 + $40 shipping

[duaneage]

i just helped someone who thought a RR I sent them was bad fix their bike. The stator wires were pinched by a cover and wreaked havoc with the charging system.

Measure the resistance from each stator wire lead to the engine case and if you get a reading you may have a wire pinched somewhere. Do this with the three stator leads disconnected from the RR>

I missed the post with the pictures when the thread jumped to the next page.

In general your stator does not show excessive signs of overheating except for that one pole what seems like bare copper showing. The heavy layer of resin over the windings may be hiding it on other poles. Is that winding wire broken, I could not zoom in enough, if so then it definitely is your fault!

A fault like that could intermittently short to the ground or short out between the windings when the copper expands and moves due to heat or it could show a permanent fault.

Every third pole is the same phase, with 6 of them in series. Look at those closely for more signs of overheating. It will likely be one phase only, the one with the pole showing damage and its other 5 friends.

You will find that the burnt pole is most likely the one that was wired via the headlight switch.

Just for info. Suzuki used different colour wires from the stator to the R/R to ensure that a specific pole was always wired via the switch as some of the early R/R's only used a single SCR on one phase only for regulation. I think these were phased out at the end of the 70's, from the 80's on all 3 phases were regulated. They did not want to switch out regulation when the lights were off.

My suggestion: I would not refit a stator with that sort of damage and will replace or rewind it. So even with all your tests not conclusively identifying the stator, it needs to be replaced and will most likely sort out your problem.

Keep well.